Then post it for all to see.... I won't be waiting, as I NEVER said that, Asshole!
Again, where did I say it was a LL on the mini-split?
Get a clue, Dipshit!
You better get some more training, your incompetence is showing.
And actually "CLARK" - liquid lines "can" sweat when the subcooling reaches a temperature below the dew point. And yes, they [the liquid line] doesn't necessarily have to have adibiatic expansion to sweat. Just meet the dew point. Which BTW is not that hard to do. You can have a liquid line heat exchanger that uses suction gas to sub-cool the line and as a result - sweat.
So you are not on the mark that when you make a general statement that the liquid line is sweating, which in the case of a mini-split is not what leaves the outdoor section BTW - it's actually a part of the distributor feed heading to the evaporator. Calling it a liquid line is actuall not accurate [there would be a 75% liquid / 25% vapor mix in the small line and
100% vapor / gas in the large suction line.]And BTW you as well entered this discussion, you not event he O.P. so go pound sand.
RBM: Yes, that's how most of the mini-splits I've installed are wired, but be sure, the cable is NOT a thermostat wire, you should read the instructions on the proper gauge. Most of them call out for 14/4. Most codes also call for a "disconnection means" at the indoor section as well. This cable has two hots sometimes, or one hot and one neutral, one ground, one data line.
What vacuum pump? :) Just hook 'er up, open the valves with a set of pliers and let it fly! ;)
wrote in news:3b237$46c77326$9440c41e$31044 @STARBAND.NET:
$9440c41e
Yes you did when you ask me why it was "different" for a liquid line to sweat. You can try to deny your lie all you want but it is there for all to see.
Son, you are the one who doesn't even pay attention to what you type. On top of that you make vain attempts to "prove" your knowledge when it isn't even challenged. Now go back and read everything that has been written. You'll see that all I said was a liquid line couldn't sweat and that is true. You're the one trying to make a mountain out of a mole hill.
"Zyp" wrote in news:lZWdnXT74eDyGFrbnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@championbroadband.com:
Har, har. You won't find an expensive heat exchanger on a mini-split. Better look up the meaning of "sub-cool" while your looking for more facts to argue with.
I'm the one who said a liquid line wouldn't be sweating. Got it?
Your reading skills need work, son. I'm the one who said it couldn't be a liquid line and jkpro asked why. OBTW, no one is going to run a multi-phase high pressure line so you're going to have to back up that claim with some technical literature.
Don't tell me what to do dumb ass.
So tell me Zyp, why are you attempting to come to kjpro's rescue? I mean it's obvious he needs help and all but why you? It seems to me that you are going way out of your way to embarrass yourself while trying to support a fellow nobody on the internet.
news:a9577$46c5e3b1$9440c41e$7820
Oh my, PAY ATTENTION this time, Boy.
I stated, "Yep, they are a little different. :-)"
Then you posted, "The liquid line sweating would be more than a little different..."
Then I stated, "Why? (All they did was move the metering device)"
= = = = = =
Now here's where it gets a little difficult for mentally challenged people, so pay extra attention to the details.
I said they (mini-splits) were a little different (then regular residential splits). You come back and say the liquid line sweating is more than a little different.
Do you see it was YOU that stated it was still a LL and that it was sweating? Do you see where I then posted that they moved the metering device?
Can you understand that is a little different? Do you see anywhere, where I called it a LL? Most competent people are not having issues understanding this minor detail.
Not true, you acted like a know-it-all that was out to prove me wrong. But in the process, you found out that I know my shit and that you were indeed in deep shit. Now you want to disclaim the fact that YOU were the one with your head up your ass.
Sorry Boy, that shit just doesn't cut the mustard.
Oh look, you've found someone to argue with. Who'd have thought that possible, LMAO!
I'm talking about 18 gauge thermostat cable, (low voltage) from condenser to blower
Let me really clarify. These are new. They're made by LG, and the ONLY electrical connection to the inside blower unit is an 18/4 low voltage thermostat cable, from the condenser. All the electric flows through this cable, it's all low voltage, controls and motors
What's the model number?
One of them is : LMU240CE
Directly from their installations instructions...
"Use outdoor and waterproof connection cable rated more than 300V for the connection between indoor and outdoor unit. (For example, Type SJO-WA)"
That's not standard 18/4 thermostat wire! That's one of the reason's you need to hire a competent HVAC technician to install your mini-split system!
In my book, if it's under 600 volt, which is standard building wire, it's thermostat wire, waterproof or not
Then by all means, be a hack...
Hell, while you're at it, you might as well do the whole installation wrong. That way, when the equipment fails, you can blame the manufacture, Eh?
This whole thread is nothing but a waste of space. I don't even know why you posted on the subject, if you're not going to take advice from the Professionals.
RBM: I hope your product liability insurance is paid up. You use Class II thermostat cable on anything higher than 30 volts and you'll have safety problems. Even if the blower on the indoor section were 24 volts, it would require large cable than 18 ga. [FYI 18ga solid wiring can only handle 3 amps safely - and the jacket that comes with 18/3 generally isn't approved by most cities for outdoor use.] Most cities want it inside of liquidtight flex or somthing comparable.
If LG recommends running 18/3, head on, but I don't think so.
It's true, I've never installed a ductless from "Lucky Goldstar" but I hear LG is manufacturing a lot of differnet products. I even recently purchased an LG refrigerator and am pleasently happy with it so far.
As for CLARK, I'm not here for kjpro's rescue. I just can't let you make some of the comments your making and mis-leading folks.
liquidtight
Here's the facts, straight from LG...
Here's his posted model number and my reply to it, with the manufacture's requirements.
Directly from their installations instructions...
"Use outdoor and waterproof connection cable rated more than 300V for the connection between indoor and outdoor unit. (For example, Type SJO-WA)"
That's not standard 18/4 thermostat wire! That's one of the reason's you need to hire a competent HVAC technician to install your mini-split system!
BTW, it's a 4-wire connection.
That's what has been the requirment on the FUJITSU's we've been installing. Although on the Soleus units it is 3 wire? Go figure. Have you installed any LG's?
No, that's why I asked him for the model... I wanted to go directly to the manufacture for specifications. :-) You know me... get the facts... then rip apart the bullshit. LOL
My point is that being a low voltage circuit to the blower unit makes it a simple installation, more so than having to run a line voltage and control circuit. It's still an 18/4 cable albeit not CL-2. Truth of the matter is the installation I saw was done by a large union "HVAC professional" company. The reason I post here is to try to give useful advice to homeowners and do-it-yourself folks that request it. I do this as a seasoned professional in my particular field, as do many others. Since your advice to folks seems to be to call a professional, why exactly do you post here?
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