Incandescent light bulb replacements

[Stormin Mormon]

At my church, we have a lot of "can lights" in the ceiling. They had been taking out the 150 watt filament bulbs, and using CF "curly cue" bulbs. Now they are installing LED flood lights, and are totally pleased with them.

They T-30 are about $40 each, and can't remember. 18 watts power draw, is it? Brighter actually than the 150 watt filament bulbs that had been in there. The flood light style throws the light down and out, instead of bouncing around the tin can.

I don't have any can lights. But, they do offer "corn cob" shaped LED on Ebay. The CF bulbs I have in, are still working. And some straight bulb fluorescents I've got for various uses. I'm not spending $7 per bulb just yet on the LED. Maybe later?

I had (about year 1988) a lamp over my work bench. When I'd turn the grinder on, the bulb would blow. I blew through (sorry, not funny) a four pack of Phillips, and then had a GE, or was it Sylvania. Anyhow, the different brand lasted a lot longer.

I wonder if the LED corn cob bulbs will stand up to vibration? At seven dollars a bulb, what's the pay back time? LONG time, I'm sure.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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[clare]

compared to a rough service incandescent the payback is about 7 bulbs.

[Eli the Bearded]

You needed a rough service bulb or a bulb that could handle whatever electrical disturbance the grinder put out? LEDs probably won't help in the later case, and will vary brand to brand in the former. Some I've seen are a bit prone to falling apart and then it is hard to fix the wires to get them to operate again. And it it is a hot environment (eg totally enclosed) that could also cause problems for the circuits that run the LEDs. My old garage door opener was a bulb killer, but I gave up faster than you did with that lamp. Nothing I put in there CFL, rough service, appliance, or higher voltage rating (for any surges) would last more than a month or two. Never risked a LED in it.

Elijah

------ seven bucks sounds cheap for an LED bulb

[Jon Elson]

Oh, if it was truly shock to the filament, both CFL and LEDs should be much more robust. The LEDs should be able to take massive mechanical abuse, probably the first thing to go would be the plastic housings.

Jon

[Stanley Schaefer]

Have had several "decorative" LED lights give up the ghost, haven't lasted any longer than the incandescents or CFLs that they replaced. So you're right, they can screw up almost anything. Had a couple dead out of the packages, too. Since all of the current lights, no matter what type, are the products of that great Chinese QC, it's no wonder. The LED bulb failures were total, not just a few defective individual LEDs croaking like on a cheap flashlight. And this is with a stationary floor lamp, not on any sort of vibrating tool. At least the dead ones don't have any mercury.

Stan

[azotic]

At least the dead ones don't have any mercury. Stan

A study by UC Irvine's Department of Population Health & Disease Prevention has discovered that LED diodes contain unsafe levels of carcinogenic toxins. While LED's less energy friendly cousin's, CFLs, contain a measured amount of mercury, LEDs are laden with lead, arsenic and a handful of other chemicals that have been linked to different cancers, neurological damage, kidney disease, hypertension, skin rashes and other serious illnesses. Not only are these chemicals harmful to consumers if the bulbs are mishandled or broken, but extracting those toxins from the earth is a destructive process.

Study Finds LED Light Bulbs Contain Unsafe Levels of Carcinogenic Toxins | Inhabitat - Green Design Will Save the World

Best Regards Tom.

[Stormin Mormon]

I can't remember where, probably here. I've heard the Chinese made LED corn cob lights have a high failure rate.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

.

It would have to be a really crappy LED design to _not_ stand up to vibration better than an incandescent or fluorescent. No little thin wires, nothing working at high temperature, everything well supported, vibration resistance should be much better. However I have great confidence in the ability of industry to screw up a simple design.

[J. Clarke]

Is there a link to the actual study anywhere? All I can find is stories based on a press release that may or may not have any relation to the content of the paper. The same press release goes on about the copper content like the copper contend of LEDs is going to end the world, so it has to be taken with a huge dose of salt.

[DougC]

I have a couple wall-fixture porch lights that killed every kind of CFL and incan bulb I tried in them within days. Apparently the fixtures just vibrate when the doors slam, since that's when the bulbs would always start to flicker or go out.

Last year I took a chance and bought a couple of these for $16 each- Utilitech 40-Watt Equivalent Indoor Warm White LED Light Bulb Item #: 338802 Model #: LA19DM/LED

So far they have worked perfectly--they are not ideal but they are bright enough, and have never flickered even a bit. And they are even cheaper now,,, on sale for $10 each.

--------

I have two other "difficult" fixtures however, vibration probably the culprit there too:

One is a light mounted over the kitchen stove, in the underside of the stove hood/microwave (the OEM bulb lasted a long time, but I can't get them anymore and every cheaper replacement the same size I tried burned out very quickly if the exhaust fan is used at all).

The second is a small lamp on a Sears bench grinder I have (Model#

21162). It is a smaller-socket halogen bulb and it worked great but burned out after only a couple months. A replacement I bought only lasted about as long, and cost me ~$7.

LEDs do not do well in heat so I dunno how a LED bulb might do over a stovetop. With the grinder, I haven't really gone searching for alternatives yet.

[DougC]

I have a couple wall-fixture porch lights that killed every kind of CFL and incan bulb I tried in them within days. Apparently the fixtures just vibrate when the doors slam, since that's when the bulbs would always start to flicker or go out.

Last year I took a chance and bought a couple of these for $16 each- Utilitech 40-Watt Equivalent Indoor Warm White LED Light Bulb Item #: 338802 Model #: LA19DM/LED

So far they have worked perfectly--they are not ideal but they are bright enough, and have never flickered even a bit. And they are even cheaper now,,, on sale for $10 each.

--------

I have two other "difficult" fixtures however, vibration probably the culprit there too:

One is a light mounted over the kitchen stove, in the underside of the stove hood/microwave (the OEM bulb lasted a long time, but I can't get them anymore and every cheaper replacement the same size I tried burned out very quickly if the exhaust fan is used at all).

The second is a small lamp on a Sears bench grinder I have (Model#

21162). It is a smaller-socket halogen bulb and it worked great but burned out after only a couple months. A replacement I bought only lasted about as long, and cost me ~$7.

LEDs do not do well in heat so I dunno how a LED bulb might do over a stovetop. With the grinder, I haven't really gone searching for alternatives yet.

[Attila.Iskander]

Well then you had better not eat them

[DougC]

I have a couple wall-fixture porch lights that killed every kind of CFL and incan bulb I tried in them within days. Apparently the fixtures just vibrate when the doors slam, since that's when the bulbs would always start to flicker or go out.

Last year I took a chance and bought a couple of these for $16 each- Utilitech 40-Watt Equivalent Indoor Warm White LED Light Bulb Item #: 338802 Model #: LA19DM/LED

So far they have worked perfectly--they are not ideal but they are bright enough, and have never flickered even a bit. And they are even cheaper now,,, on sale for $10 each.

--------

I have two other "difficult" fixtures however, vibration probably the culprit there too:

One is a light mounted over the kitchen stove, in the underside of the stove hood/microwave (the OEM bulb lasted a long time, but I can't get them anymore and every cheaper replacement the same size I tried burned out very quickly if the exhaust fan is used at all).

The second is a small lamp on a Sears bench grinder I have (Model#

21162). It is a smaller-socket halogen bulb and it worked great but burned out after only a couple months. A replacement I bought only lasted about as long, and cost me ~$7.

LEDs do not do well in heat so I dunno how a LED bulb might do over a stovetop. With the grinder, I haven't really gone searching for alternatives yet.

[DougC]

I have a couple wall-fixture porch lights that killed every kind of CFL and incan bulb I tried in them within days. Apparently the fixtures just vibrate when the doors slam, since that's when the bulbs would always start to flicker or go out.

Last year I took a chance and bought a couple of these for $16 each- Utilitech 40-Watt Equivalent Indoor Warm White LED Light Bulb Item #: 338802 Model #: LA19DM/LED

So far they have worked perfectly--they are not ideal but they are bright enough, and have never flickered even a bit. And they are even cheaper now,,, on sale for $10 each.

--------

I have two other "difficult" fixtures however, vibration probably the culprit there too:

One is a light mounted over the kitchen stove, in the underside of the stove hood/microwave (the OEM bulb lasted a long time, but I can't get them anymore and every cheaper replacement the same size I tried burned out very quickly if the exhaust fan is used at all).

The second is a small lamp on a Sears bench grinder I have (Model#

21162). It is a smaller-socket halogen bulb and it worked great but burned out after only a couple months. A replacement I bought only lasted about as long, and cost me ~$7.

LEDs do not do well in heat so I dunno how a LED bulb might do over a stovetop. With the grinder, I haven't really gone searching for alternatives yet.

[clare]

And ALL of the "hazardous" material is totally encapsulated in the plasic "dome" of most LEDs.

[RBM]

If you are comparing them to a 150 watt par38, or 150 watt R-40 flood, which are typical style lamps for large recessed down lights, you'd be incorrect about the light output. Of course, both these types of lamp are no longer available in 150 watts, in an incandescent type, but when they were, either type delivered over 2000 lumens compared to the approximately 800 produced by the LED. Par's and R's also direct the light downward unlike an "A" lamp.

[Tomsic]

The so-called "shock and vibration service" inandescent bulbs are still available and are on the DOE exempt list, so they shouldn't disappear due to federal regulations. Each type is made a little differently, but a lamp designed to withstand shock has more filament supports than standard bulbs and to compare lamps those can be counted simply by looking at the lamp (assuming it's a clear lamp).

For use in garage door openers and task lights with machine tools, I use bulbs made for electric signs and you can find them at distributors or on line. They're marked "sign service" in some lamp catalogs and are usually made in 11, 15, 25 and 40 watt sizes. Their filaments use a rhenium-tungsten alloy that only works with lower-wattage bulbs, but is great at resisting breakage from shock and vibration.

Tomsic

[Stormin Mormon]

You mean the ones for indoor use only? I'm telling Mom!

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

.

I have a couple wall-fixture porch lights that killed every kind of CFL and incan bulb I tried in them within days. Apparently the fixtures just vibrate when the doors slam, since that's when the bulbs would always start to flicker or go out.

Last year I took a chance and bought a couple of these for $16 each- Utilitech 40-Watt Equivalent Indoor Warm White LED Light Bulb Item #: 338802 Model #: LA19DM/LED

So far they have worked perfectly--they are not ideal but they are bright enough, and have never flickered even a bit. And they are even cheaper now,,, on sale for $10 each.

[gregz]

They are just like Christmas strings, all in series.

Greg

[gregz]

In corncobs style there are no electronic parts that shake loose. Those other LEDs using voltage converters and current regulators, bigger parts can fatigue over time, also in cfl circuits.

I was just checking out led display at home depot. Pretty cool. Cool white, warm white. Some of the large aluminum fins do get warm. Bright !

Greg

[Martin Eastburn]

We were running a CFL light in one side and a bug light in the other side. The CFL was 'bug yellow' - so they though... That xxx lamp draws bugs and takes several minutes to put out light.

Rip off for a bug light. LED's might be better. Mart> >>