The fix was to replace the OEM open back 4 terminal ballast resistor
with the sealed 4 terminal ballast resistor available from NAPA. I've
had two problems that affected the engine on my 89 Dodge van and it was
a clogged sock on the in tank fuel pump because someone (perhaps on the
assembly line) had installed the pump with the sock folded over leaving
only a quarter coin sized bit of screen for the pump to draw fuel
through and just a little bit of debris clogged it up. The other was a
defective Hall Effect sensor in the distributor. Two hard to find yet
simple problems that were hard to find. Decoding the computer codes led
me to the distributor problem and experience made me suspicious of the
fuel pick up in the gas tank, which is a huge plastic tank by the way.
The engine in the old critter always runs now no matter how long it
sits. I haven't done much driving since I dropped dead or been able to
get the 24 foot extension ladder off the ladder rack but the old van is
patiently waiting for my return. ^_^
CY: you know, one of my vans had a clogged fuel pickup tube. No sock on
the end. A neighbor showed me how to get the fuel tube out, knock the
ring to the left, and pull the tube. Had to run the fuel level down, in
the tank. That took a couple days. Just a tube, with no sock. I reamed
it out with a coat hanger, and it worked much better.
The other was a
CY: Bummer on the distributor. I've seen two instance of defective
pickup coil inside the distributor, both on GM. No, make that three. My
Chevette had a pickup coil with bad wires, rubbed through.
On Sat, 31 Aug 2013 07:54:37 -0400, Stormin Mormon
The "silver beauty" MSW wires were about $19 at the time and would
start with a garden hose running over the engine. I NEVER had damp
start problems on ANY of my many Mopars - 53 241 hemi, 57 fargo
flathead 6, 63 valiant 170, 69 dart 225, 75 dart 225, 76 ramcharger
318, 85 lebaron 2.6, 88 New Yorker 3.0, 2002 PT Cruiser 2.4
The decade the government started serious intrusions into our lives,
"to protect us", or "for the children", yes. Bad time and that's been
a one-way trip.
As far as the (US) auto manufacturers go, it was a decade of cost
reductions and planned obsolescence. Cars were *designed* to last
three years. After all, that's what "people wanted". ...until the
Japanese showed them the error of their ways. It took another decade
or three to actually learn the lesson, though.
Ayup... female type I dated for a while had a '69 Valiant (in the late
90's - early 2000's) and literally all the work that was done to it over
a period of about 5 years was that I rebuilt the front suspension
(bushings were dry rotted so an inspector failed it for that and tie rod
ends) she put new tires on it and once when it sat for a couple weeks I
had to replace the carb because dipping the original carb in cleaner to
clean it out revealed that the jet block was disintegrating. She never
set the valve lash and had a heavy foot so somewhere in there it got a
head rebuild. Oh, and the usual ballast resistor replacement. Other
than that it basically took gas and oil and just ran, we drove the snot
out of it. It was registered as a regular old car and passed safety
every year. Wish I knew where that car was today; I'd have bought it
off her when she was done with it, but apparently she got offers on it
all the time and just took one, and I apparently wasn't near the top of
her "favorites" list at the time.
I had several Darts & Valiants years ago too, gave up the last one , a '73
in the late 90's as I recall. They were indeed rugged, easy to work on,
and reliable though needing maintenance somewhat more frequently than today's
cars. 200,000 miles on the slant 6 was not unusual. The difference was,
one of those slant 6's with 200,000 miles would typically need a quart of
oil every 500 miles or so. I have a 96 Cherokee today that has 200,000
miles and doesn't need a single quart of oil between oil changes, which
I do at 5000 miles. And it sure has a lot less rust on it than a 17 year old
Valiant or Dart would.
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.
Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
I doubt the rubber is strong enough to do any good.
You might be able to slot the head with a dremel and
small cut off wheel. Use slotted screw driver.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
On 8/27/2013 1:43 PM, Metspitzer wrote:
I think it's about stripped heads.
I have no idea what part the rubber band plays.
This site makes a similar claim:
I'm not buying it.
I'm thinking there might be some science to support it.
The coefficient of _rolling_ friction between iron wheels and steel
railway track is very low, which is why trains get surprisingly good
fuel economy once they're up to speed.
Now, when you're turning a stripped screw with a screw driver, it's
really the friction between the driver tip and the screw head that's
preventing the tip from slipping. That's STATIC friction, whereas
trains are all about rolling friction, and I understand the two are
completely different. But, I also know that friction is one of the
least well understood phenomena in this world. So, lets presume that
there is low friction at a steel on steel contact.
By putting the rubber between the screw driver tip and the screw, you
now have a very much higher co-efficient of friction both between the
screw driver tip and the rubber and between the rubber and the screw,
and therefore very much more friction preventing the screw driver tip
However, it seems to me that what a person would need here is THIN
rubber given the small clearance between the driver tip and the screw
drive, so I think a better tip would be to use a condom or a latex
rubber glove, both of which are made of much thinner rubber than an
Anyhow, that's the best I can do.
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