Hi, I'm new to this post so I'm hoping you can help me. :?
My question is a simple one.
I'm prewireing windows/doors for an alarm.
I bought 3/8" recessed magnetic contacts that come with 18" leads.
The rock is not on yet so I can do the final connections now and tuck
them nicely in the stud cavity.
I have seen other houses in my ares have the main wire (from control
panel) hang by the window and then rockers pull them around drywall.
I haven't seen the final product but it seems like some wire would
always be visible (unless they install surface mounted contacts, in
which case that would make sense). Mine will be recessed (nicely in
the window) so if I can hide the wire, I would want to.
Here are my questions/concerns:
1. How do I attach the leads to the wire (solder, crimp, wire nuts)?
2. Do I leave wires hanging loose on the other side of the stud or do
I staple them (what if I need to access them later, by pulling
contact out thru the window/door frame)?
Like I said, simple question, but it has me perplexed.
PS, Do I need to staple low voltage cables (RG6, CAT5, 22/4) to studs
like high voltage, or can I leave them loose? Loose would be better
if I had to pull/replace damaged wire.
Thanks ya all.
BTW, great forum. Will check this one often...
There DEFINITELY should NOT be any visible wires except perhaps in the
unfinished basement or attic.
We just had an alarm system installed in our 100+ year 3-story house. The
installers were very clever at snaking wires all over the house making
only minimal holes in the walls. In fact, the electrician who was
working in parallel said that he learned quite a few tricks from them.
If they could do it in an old difficult to wire house then you
shouldhave no problem in a house with still exposed studs.
The installers first made a Western Union splice, then soldered the
wires, then covered with electric tape.
They did not staple any wires that they snaked through the
walls. Though in the basement runs they did use small (uninsulated)
staples to keep the wires running neatly along the rafters.
Soldering is best and will help prevent false alarms. Use the special
"twisted-pair" 2 conductor alarm wire for wiring contacts.
Leave an extra wire loop of one foot or so at the location of each
contact. That way, if the contact ever goes bad, you can pull out the
wires and replace it.
Very important - Test each and every contact (door - window) before
and immediately after the drywall goes up. Even if the contacts are
not wired yet, you want to make sure that the wires have not been cut
or shorted. Better to find out now then later.
Think about alarm contact zones and what alarm panel you will be
Home running every contact to the panel is best for reliability (but
also the most expensive and uses the most wire). Many modern alarm
boxes can handle a large number of zones 48, 96 etc.
You could put certain contacts in a zone (for example, upstairs
windows, basement doors, etc.). Good planning is required, but this
will reduce the number of zones and will give you a simpler system.
Be aware that if there is a wiring problem with a zone, the whole zone
will be dead and unusable.
Most alarm sensors are of the "closed-circuit" type and wired in
series, often with end-of-line resistors in series with the most
distant contact. Some sensors are of the "open circuit type" -
example - under the carpet floor mat sensors and require a special
convertor or, in some cases, may be wired directly to the panel as
open circuit contacts.
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