How to remove glued-on quarter-round from baseboard?

If regular carpenters glue was used a heat gun might soften the glue and allow the separation of the quarter round from the baseboard. Work from the back of the baseboard if you can.

Reply to
Worn out Retread
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A 50/50 mix of hot water/vinegar should loosen wood glue. Or, you can use steam.

Reply to
Phisherman

I sure would NOT do woodwork and paint after brand new carpet, bad sequencing in my opinion. Get the walls and trim done, carpet last.

Reply to
DanG

Fein Multimaster

Reply to
Leon

Steve wrote in news:Xns9A27589A683AC184365720018436572@66.250.146.128:

The baseboard should be 3/8 to 1/2 inch off the floor for carpeting. The carpet installers will tuck the carpet under the baseboard for a clean secure fit. Ask the carpet installers what size gap they want. Replace the baseboard if you want to give him a good job. I find it easier to cut and fit it, paint then install. A quick topcoat after it's installed to cover nailheads/puttied nailheads/corner caulking.

Reply to
Red Green

A modified flat bar. Sometimes they can be bought sold as a restorers bar. The modification is starting with a small flat bar grind the short end so the bevel is the other way for easier driving beween the pieces to start the seperation. Thin the other end just a bit and sharpen in (be carefull) to cut the joint once you get a starting point.

Reply to
r payne

"DanG" wrote on 16 Jan 2008 in group alt.home.repair:

Unfortunately, that's not an option with carpet companies. They *always* screw up the baseboards. If they're going carpet an entire house in a morning, they can't stop to be careful. (You get what you pay for. :) )

Reply to
Steve

"Twayne" wrote on 16 Jan 2008 in group alt.home.repair:

Thanks for the marketing advice, but he's a friend.

It won't be replaced. He wants carpet up to the baseboard. I agree with him that it looks better without the quarter-round

Most likely, the carpet *will* hide the damage.

For this one there's no contract. I'm working time and materials at a low, low rate of $30/hour. He's been remodeling his house by himself for the last 2½ years, and had every room taken apart at once. His wife insisted he needed help to finish, so that's where I came in. I've been working half-days for the last couple of months, and most of the work is now finished. He was limited to nights and weekends, so he never got to spend time with his family.

The first two walls came off easy as pie. An entire 8-foot section popped off when I slipped my putty knife behind one end. When I turned the corner, though, I found that he hadn't painted the baseboard before putting on the quarter-round, so the glue holds very firmly.

Thanks for the help. It's all good.

Reply to
Steve

Red Green wrote on 16 Jan 2008 in group alt.home.repair:

The existing baseboard goes below the surface of the existing engineered wood floor. It's not coming off the wall. The carpet will go on top of the wood.

Where I installed *new* baseboards, I left them ½" off the ground. That's the thickness of the adjoining tile floors.

On other jobs I've spent hours carefully sanding, filling, and painting baseboards, only to have to do it all over again the day after the carpeters come. I now assume they all do it, and I occasionally have a pleasant surprise when I follow behind competent workers.

Reply to
Steve

Glue softens with heat (more than wood, at least). If you can aim a couple of heat lamps at a section for five minutes, it should penetrate to the glue joint and pry-off will work.

Or a heat gun, with a channel over the molding to guide the air? You don't want the higher heat of a blowtorch.

Reply to
whit3rd

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Have you tried a heat gun on the parts that don't pop off? Depending on the type of glue, that might do the job.

Reply to
Jim Weisgram

Steve wrote on 16 Jan 2008 in group alt.home.repair:

The client decided just to rip it off and let the carpet cover the damage. Price is a factor. I'll putty, sand, and paint anything that shows above the carpet.

I used a thin putty knife to cut through the glue joint, then a stiff putty knife to pry. The rest came off with minimal damage -- nothing like the 1/4"-deep gouges from before. And, surprise, when I turned the next corner, the quarter-round was nailed down -- to the wood flooring.

Reply to
Steve

I had my whole house done in afternoons (two floors). The installers were great, even though they were subs for Home Despot. They said there was a possibility of nicking the woodwork and to have something to touch them up ready, but they were great. No dings in the sheetrock either. It can be done.

Reply to
krw

Can you determine what kind of glue it is? Maybe it can be desolved or softened. How about trying a heat gun?

Charley

Reply to
Charley

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