hello everyone! i need some advice/help on a small question. i can not
seem to find this specific step in any how to guides on the net. i
have low cold water pressure and weak flushing in my upstairs
bathroom. i know this is because of the old galvanized piping leading
up to the bathroom, my house is very old. i have found articles on how
to replace the piipes with copper and even how to unclogg the old
pipes. however, the step i am missing and i really need is how do i
know which piece of the galvanized piping to replace. i don't have the
money to replace all of the piping but i saw on a old HGTV episode
months ago where the host showed how to replace galvanized piping with
copper. he did something that showed him which piece of pipe was the
most coroded and needed replacing to fix the problem. it was about a
12 inch or less piece. if anyone could refer me to a web-site or could
tell me themselves step by step how to know where and which piece of
the piping to replace i would be very grateful.
Often, the restriction turns out to be in an EL
or the side outlet of a TEE.
Personally, I think you are wasting your time
attempting to replace the length of pipe you
think is the "culprit".
BTW, if you do cut out a section of the old galv,
you may find that outlets and switch boxes in the
bath are no longer grounded. That includes the
box and faceplates and exposed screws. Because
in houses of this age the boxes in baths were
grounded to the cold water line. Just a heads up...
I might know the answer but I'm not going to read a bunch of run
together lower case text to find out. If you can type what you did
you can also press the caps key when appropriate and the enter key to
put some white space between differing toughts or subjects.
Thank you very much. I guess I never thought to go in and reprogram my
spacing between words. I never noticed. Thanks for being friendly,
To Those Who Are Flustered: I have never asked/been in or I guess on a
forum before. I guess I dont know the rights club rules. I just want
to say thanks to the answers to my question and say sorry for not
following the rules you have for your life. It wouldn't hurt to be a
What I said has nothing to do with "rules", it has to do with common
sense...if you want people to read something you need to state things
accurately and succinctly and make it as readable as possible.
If you think I wasn't nice then you ought to see me when I'm pissed
my this place has become unfriendly lately:(
The OP comes here looking for answers and a fight breaks out, the
simple solution ignored.
do note replacing sections of galvanized is a big hassle, connecting
to old rusty galvanized must use die electric unions or fast rust out
will occur, and many have learned putting a wrench on old steel pipe
that looks fine can crush it easily.
all in all its way easier to replace a entire run with PEX, today
plumbers dont like that its way too easy to use.
Agreed. The OP is just one more person who is too lazy to bother with
things which don't seem important to him/her. But, those are the very
things by which people at a distance are judged in most civilized societies.
I wonder how many interviews the OP would get if he/she submitted a
resume in that format. <G>
But, the thought of trying to find a section of pipe with significant
restriction caused by corrosion buildup poses an interesting question.....
Anyone got any ideas on what principles of physics, thermodynamics or
maybe acoustics might be used to determine just where such a restriction
is located, assuming all the pipes are accessable, but without
disconnecting any of the plumbing?
Opening faucets in the sequence of their distance from the supply point
and noting the flow rates is too easy and answers along those lines
won't be accepted. <G>
It is my experience that *all* the pipe will have crud built up on the
inside. Not just a small section.
What you can do is start with a new line from the meter. You need a permit
for this. Use the recommended size pipe like 1 inch or whatever.
If you have a basement or crawlspace with easy to access pipes, you can run
a new pipe to the bathroom from the new main line and tie in the new main
line to the old cold water pipes.
If the pipes are in a concrete slab or a small attic which is not
accessible, this will be more involved. Might need to tear walls apart.
Might need to run lines outside around house and then into each room through
the outside walls. All sorts of different situations.
Might want to call a couple of plumbers and see if they can fix the problem
first before going to all this work. Sometimes valves can be replaced and
improve things a bit.
yeah patch sounds good till the pipes rust thru, creating leaks or a
this happened to a buddy of mine who refused to replace the lines,
leaks everywhere he finally gave in and replaced all the galavanized.
do note flat runs are more likely to crud up, but sooner or later it
all will have to be replaced
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