that person obviously didnt want to be bothered, and blew you off. did
you tell them...
"i need a metal watch band adjusted"
"i just got this new watch at costco, how much to adjust the band?"
not that its any of their business whether its a 20 year old wenger
family heirloom, or a new one from costco.
In searching how to adjust your Costco Wenger Swiss Military watch
band, I found these references which may help you out.
"Remember you have to remove at least 2 pins to remove a link. For more
than 1 link, you have to remove evenly from both ends of the bracelet
or the buckle will end up in the wrong place - you want the buckle to
end up on the flat of your wrist. This is NOT 1/2 way because of
anatomy - the top 1/2 needs to be considerably shorter than the bottom.
So that is at least 4 pins that need
to come out and then 2 to be driven back in."
These work for other watches, but I didn't find any references to the
tool that is actually needed for your watch.
Where can I get a tool to OPEN THE BACK of the watch?
I recently took my watch to a local jewelry store who quoted $8 dollars
to adjust the steel band but who actually charged me $16 dollars
because it was 8 dollars PER SIDE! When I asked why, he said he had to
take a link out of each side so he charged double the quote!
If I knew that it would cost me that much (half the price of the watch)
I would have purchased a kit to do it myself. Does anyone have a good
reference for a watch kit that will also open up the back of the watch
(it has a six dents equally spaced in the back of the watch for
whatever tool goes there).
BTW, the actual links are really a half-round pin, folded over, flat
sides touching, so that it looks like a slotted flathead screwdriver on
the side it comes out and it looks like a round head on the side you
punch but it's really just a half-round doubled over length of metal
pin acting like a spring because it's bent over in half.
Now that the band is fixed, I've learned my do-it-yourself lesson the
But, where can I get a tool to OPEN THE BACK of the watch?
On 18 Jul 2005 00:01:33 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
That 8 bucks a side is a rip off. Those pushpins are generally easy as
pie to knock out and back in. 10 bucks(Aussie) would have been a fair
price. And you'd be paying for my time(all 3 minutes of it) and my
knowledge(we'll assume i'm good at what i do). :)
Here is one that should do the job. It's cheap enough to try.
And here are some others. If your budget and interest is big enough,
then get the on the top of the page. "Jaxa Swiss" is the pro's choice.
Well, we finally adjusted the Wenger Swiss Military watch band!
After googling & froogling for "watch band link remover adjustment", we
realized for ten to twenty bucks we could buy the needed metal watch
band link adjustment tool.
I also stopped off at another jeweler who said he'd adjust the watch
band for fifteen bucks which was more than some of the tools so I
We ended up pushing the pins out with a bent steel pin and removing a
link on each side by removing four pins total and putting back two of
them. Leftovers were two links and two cotter pins as shown in the
photos I just hosted here
Notice the link is actually two pieces of metal bent together as
mentioned by someone in this thread previously.
If anyone wants me to, I can measure the diameter of the pin with a
micrometer that the boys at work have if you need that data. The
hardest part my son said was he kept losing the pins on the garage
floor and it took him a while to find a thin enough pin pushing tool -
he eventually used what is shown in the photos.
Yep, they are quite common and are easy to remove as long as you do
have a small and hard enough pin. When i say pin, it should be a flat
top punch. Pins will just damage the band's pin and it may never come
Here are some band tools if anyone else is in need:
As you say for 15 or so bucks there are a few there, which will tackle
your band quite nicely.
An old ground flat 0.70-.80 screwdriver does wonderfully well.. :-)
Q: Which of the tools removes the Rolex Oyster Perpetual back cover?
Fifteen years ago I bought a second-hand steel/gold Rolex Oyster
Perpetual (pre sapphire crystal) date adjust watch (just the numers,
not the day of the week) for about $1800 if I remember correctly.
replacement, watch band deterioration, and winding battery-less
watches; so, from that standpoint, it was a bargain in that this watch
is self winding, the gold/steel band is practically indestructable,
and, of course, no batteries!
However, the first "adjustment" cost $300; the first major overhaul
cost $800, and now it's broken again (my kids dropped it on the cement
and it stopped working instantly). So, from a frugality & reliablity
standpoint, this watch has been a bust (it's just sitting in my "things
to fix" drawer).
I'm done taking it to a watchsmith (see why above).
Now I just want to see if I can visually see what is broken inside.
Maybe it's something simple that I can get fixed for less than $800.
Therefore, I just want to take off the back plate,
Q: Which of the tools would you recommend to open the Rolex Oyster
for the raw materials not much unless there is some gold in the case or
movement, for undamaged secondhand parts you would make a bit back, but
you would have to cover stripping out the parts, id them, pack and post,
sell them on ebay :)
the cost of materials is nothing, why it annoyed me during the 70s when
gold went through the roof that people were scraping gold pocket watches
for the sake of a few grams of gold, many fine and compicated watches
were lost during that time.
I am a machninst by trade, and fully appreciate the craftsmanship that goes
into a Rolex.
At the same time I realize that Rolex trades in a name and a brand that rich
people think put feathers in their hat.
It is a very inportant issue to have the image a Rolex on your wrist
(Chinese rip off or otherwise) to many people, becuase they feel they have
rub their wealt up against others with wealth.
It can be the biggest chunk of shit ever made, but what sells it is the
perception of exclusivity.
After all, only the elite and wealthy can afford and appreciate a ten
thousand dollar watch, that is an overpriced chunk of shit.
I see you normally hang out on rec.scuba so you probably wouldn't think
of wearing a Rolex watch because you need other features in a diving
watch, which I can agree with. But, I do think your concerns deserve
First off, this water resistant Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
chronometer was no where near ten thousand dollars in cost. That may be
the case (even more actually) for a gold Rolex; but this DateJust is
stainless steel and gold and it only cost me about $1800, used (more
than a decade ago). Since it's working again, polished up, I could
probably get that much for it (based in input I see today) on the open
market, so, at least it held its value (albeit not above inflation) in
the intervening years.
Why would anyone buy a two thousand dollar watch is still a valid
Did you ever buy something just because it was well made?
Did you ever buy something to last forever (your lifetime as the
Did you ever buy something because you thought it would be maintenance
If not, you'll never understand why anyone could pay thousands of
dollars for a watch when a ten dollar Casio tells time better. For that
matter, why buy a forty thousand dollar Bimmer or a seventeen thousand
dollar Beemer when a twenty thousand dollar Chevy gets you from point a
to point b just as fast.
Now, in my case, the "illusion" of maintenance free was a farce (as it
cost me over $1100 in repairs alone already) - but the other two
concerns (well made and it should last forever, with maintenance) still
seem valid to me at this time.
This is a well made watch. Probably just as well made as that $2500
rubber-banded analog Tag Heuer 2000 Aquagraph or Bell & Ross Hydromax
you wear yourself when diving today.
How about a used Mazda truck that cost $1,000, and gets 28 MPG?
Which is the hook.
I have a Rolex. A gold Oyster Perpetual.
It was given to me by the gent who owned the 61' Swan I crewed.
(If you want to know what hell is, just change the starter on the Volvo
Penta diesel that the Swan was built around. I swear they must have
suspended that engine magnetically and built the boat around it.)
It doesn't work. It's a piece of junk. But its purty.
I have an UWATEC bottom timer for diving.
I am a machinist by trade, so I don't wear watches or any other jewelry;
potentially bad for the limbs.
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