I'm building a tool "kit" for a new home renter (bunch of kids who just
graduated from college and now have their first house rental).
One of the toolboxes in the house-warming kit is the 'glue box'.
The goal is to have one (and only one) kind of the most used glues.
* PVA wood glue (for non-flexing porous surface repairs)
* Styrene-butadiene rubber ("Shoe Goo" flexible leather cloth repair)
* Polyepoxides, (2-part epoxy for strength in things like porcelain)
* Ethyl cyanoacrylate (non-flexing plastics repairs, must be small tubes)
* Latex rubber cement (for flexing plastic repairs)
The goal is to handle many types of common situations.
What other types of glues do you stock in your glue kit?
And what use is it best for?
On Tue, 25 Sep 2018 03:55:29 +0100, Logan MacEwens
I would never give a bunch of kids renting my house a box of glue. If
they have a problem I would send my handyman over or fix it myself.
Turning idiots loose with tools and particularly a box of glue is just
asking for trouble.
That is why I like Epoxy. It doesn't really start curing until you mix
it and it sticks to lots of stuff. I keep a 3 or 4 types around.
Sometimes I will use a liquid style and a modeling clay type in the
same joint. Use the liquid to wet the surfaces and the clay to fill
the voids. You end up with something really tough.
The other thing I figured out is if you are trying to save a caulking
gun tube of RTV (silicone), use a long nail like you use on "K" gutter
(6-7" long) to plug the spout. Even if the tube starts curing on you,
the nail will still be back in the wet stuff so you can get some of it
out. I have a box of ring shank ones I got on a closeout somewhere
that work very well.
I am under whelmed by poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue. Regular
old yellow waterproof wood glue works better at a fraction of the
Super glue is always a one shot deal so buy those 6 packs with a few
drops in each tube in the drop bins at Ace, Harbor Fright or Northern
for a buck or so.
On 25/09/2018 @ 04:42:05, snipped-for-privacy@Weiser.com wrote:
Each type has its merits and demerits.
For example, latex rubber cement is great for plastics and paper that can't
get wet and which you have to easily clean up the residue on.
Meanwhile, nothing beats PVA for gluing wood, for example, but it takes at
least 24 hours to cure and has to be securely clamped together in most
Nothing beats styrene-butadiene for fixing tennis shoes, for example, but
again, it has to be clamped tightly for a period of time longer than you
feel like holding with your hands.
Nothing beats poly epoxides for sheer hardness and resistance to extremes
of temperature, but again, you have to keep them clamped for quite some
time to allow curing.
Are there any other common types we use in our households?
One critical advantage of the ethyl cyanoacrylates that you seem to dislike
is that they bond relatively quickly, in the span of time that you can hold
two irregularly shaped parts together.
On Mon, 24 Sep 2018 22:42:05 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@Weiser.com wrote:
We were using "super glue" before it hit the mass market (Eastman 910)
You need proper surface prep, they actually recommend a primer, and
this has pretty much zero "filling" capability. You need 2 surfaces
that come together with a very tight fit. Then it works very well.
On 09/24/2018 10:39 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
We kept the Eastman in the refrigerator next to everyone's lunch. I
glued my wife's finger to her thumb. It was easier when nobody knew what
The thicker types work pretty well for small gaps, or filling the joint
with baking soda can work.
I haven't used an adhesive in the last hour... Contact cement for a
little boot repair. Couple of days ago it was superglue and hot melt
glue to put the nock and ferrule back into a carbon arrow. Then there
was the double sided foam tape to reattach a trim piece on the pickup.
And the carpenters glue. And the Gorilla glue, the foaming type not the
wood glue. Shoe Goo for odd jobs including shoes, JB Weld both the 5
minute for fast, low strength projects and the regular.
You named useful glues so let's gather some information about them.
* contact cement = we may have covered this as latex rubber cement
* super glue = we covered this as ethyl cyano acrylate
* hot melt glue
* carpenter's glue = we covered this as poly vinyl alcohol
* gorilla glue (foamy)
* sho goo = we covered this as styrene-butadiene rubber
* jb weld = we covered this as poly epoxide 2-part epoxies
The two new glues were:
* gorilla glue (foamy)
* hot melt glue
Gorilla is a meaningless brand name, so we have only the "foamy" to go on.
The "wood" glue is apparently polyvinyl acetate polymer which we covered.
The "foamy" stuff might be polyurethane, which I think is new to the list.
The "hot melt" stuff is apparently a "thermoplastic" adhesive.
Unfortunately there are a acore of different types where each may be very
different in its properties (which is all that really matters).
* Ethylene-vinyl acetate
* Amorphous polyolefin
* Styrene-ethylene/propylene (SEP)
* Silicone rubbers
Given this new helpful information, I'll add these two to the list of
common household glues.
* polyurethane glue (foamy?)
* generic hot-melt glue (sticks)
Thanks! That's exactly the kind of good information I was seeking.
I don't use either of those two types.
What types of things do those two glues repair best?
I find it annoying when someone like the Gorilla glue people use their
brand on a different polymer. I just found a similar thing with the
pesticide Sevin which was carbaryl but not on all their products today.
The quart container I used to buy kills hundred of different insects but
is not recommended for the one bothering me.
As others point out some glues are good for most things but none are
good for everything and often specialized glues are needed.
On 9/25/2018 9:53 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I've seen the same test several places with the Gorilla polyurethane
always the weakest with highest percentage of joint failure; order of
the others generally had one of the newer yellow or the Weldwood T II or
T III ahead of the white but not sufficiently as to make much real,
What is significant in choice is whether the application needs more
water resistance or not.
I will not use the polyurethane (one-part) at all, ever, for woodworking
purposes; it's just too much mess to deal with.
"Because rubber cements are designed to peel easily or rub off without
damaging the paper or leaving any trace of adhesive behind, they are
ideal for use in paste-up work where excess cement might need to be
I will be very disappointed if the Weldwood contact cement I'm using to
repair the scree cuffs on my boots peels easily. The chemistry is
similar but the usage is quite different.
I have two species of Gorillas on the shelf: PVA wood glue, and the
foaming (polyurethane) white glue. The wood glue specifically says on
the label that it doesn't foam.
PU glues need to be used correctly. Yes, they foam and no, they aren't
made to fill that 1/8" gap. Used sparingly and tightly clamped the
foaming will help to ensure you don't have a glue starved joint. They
are arguably a little better on end grain joints than PVA. For a
properly glued long grain joint either PVA or PU will usually tear the
wood apart so the 'strength' of the glue itself is moot.
There is another acrylate that I have in various flavors --
methacrylate. I know you don't like brand names but it is commonly
referred to as Loctite. Of course Loctite has a wide range of products
other than threadlockers just to confuse the issue.
Probably not something kids renting an apartment would need unless they
get sick of the setscrew on a old doorknob backing out.
Cyanoacrylates differ from methacrylates as the methyl group is replaced
by a cyano group.
There are methacrylate adhesives but require a second part with
catalyst. Cyanoacrylate cure is initiated by moisture.
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