Household glue

[rbowman]

Threadlockers are anaerobic and depend on the interaction with the thread material. There is a primer that is recommended for aluminum but it's not a catalyst.

[rbowman]

People like the smell... I'm not being facetious; it's what people always used and it still works as well as it ever did. For instance when making arrows (cedar shafts) it was often used for the nocks and fletching. Personally, I use CA for the nocks and double sided tape for the fletches. Both are fast. It takes a little practice to deal with the very narrow tape but with tape once the feather is in place you can move on rather than letting the glue dry in the jig.

I had a tube I was using for some joints on a model longboat but I managed to stab the tube with an x-acto knife and it was leaking. I probably won't replace it. It was good for gluing printed trim to the hull without harming the ink on the paper.

[Logan MacEwens]

Thanks for the insight into the "Duco" brand nitro cellulose adhesives.

I just realized, looking in my own glue toolbox, that I have assorted room-temperature vulcanizing "silicone sealants", mostly used for weatherstripping, where, I'm not sure if that qualifies as an "adhesive" or not.

Someone mentioned "loctite" brand threadlockers, which seem to be vacuum-cured methacrylate.

I guess there are also uv-cured glass-repair products such as this

The uv-cured adhesives seem to be expensive though

Would you include RTV in a common home kit? (the recipients do have cars but don't work in them AFAIK).

What about that uv-cured stuff? Have any of you used it in the home?

[Logan MacEwens]

I think it's valid to add the methyl acrylates since they're commonly used, where I'd be interested in how they cure just by being steel on steel in a vacuum.

I'm not so sure about RTV, since it's not really a glue, is it?

Anyway, adding all the inputs to date, how does this list look so far?

• poly vinyl alcohol ("Elmers", white, yellow, for rigid wood, cardboard)

• styrene butadiene rubber ("Shoe Goo", flexible leather cloth repair)

• poly epoxide ("JB-Weld, 2-part, for porcelain)

• ethyl cyano acrylate ("Krazy", fast repairs, tight fit, water cured)

• methyl acrylate ("Loctite", securing threaded bolts, vacuum cured)

• latex rubber cement ("Latex-ite", dry use, easily removed)

• nitro cellulose ("Duco", smells nicer than most household adhesives)

• thermoplastic glue sticks ("Adtech", hot-melt glue)

• polyurethane ("Gorilla", foamy, water cured)

• pvc cement ("Oatey", 2 part, primer + solvent)

• room temperature vulcanizing rubber ("Permatex", sealing cracks & joints)

[rbowman]

Sort of, in a pinch. I've used the common moisture cured versions and the two part varieties for mold making but 'glue' isn't the first thing that comes to my mind. Sealant definitely.

[gregz]

Aliens tacky glue. Like elmers or wood glue but has some flex for things needing some bending.

Shoe Glue in the form of Marine Goop, UV protectors. Outside and inside repairs. Very tough and strong, can glue PVC pipe.

Silicone rtv, flexible, stick to most things that are clean.

Polyurethane, tough, sticks to cement.

Greg

[gregz]

Glues fish tanks.

Greg