Heisense refrigerator

Yabbut, when you turn on the 10 watt clock radio's alarm, it all comes crashing down...

misc fyi: I worked with a religious institution which had all the overhead lights shut off for no apparent reason at all. We finally figured out this happened when the new refrig/freezer, plugged into a new outlet that was wired into the same circuit [a], went into "defrost" mode. Yeah, that 400 watts was enough to trigger the breakers, but only when all the overhead lights were on.

I can run Microwave, toaster, coffee maker , waffle iron and more all at once it I want.

My dream house lol.

Maybe within the past 10-20 years your hearing has deteriorated to the point where you no longer hear it. Seriously.

Refrigerators should be on a seperate circuit so nothing else will trip that breaker.

Modern refrigerators usually do not draw enough current to cause lights to dim. I remember growing up and every time the refrigerator would cycle on the TV picture would be affected.

Homes back then did not have much of a robust electrical system. A two bedroom apartment I lived in for a while only had 2 fuses for all the lights and recepticals.

In my situation what's weird is that I am deaf but can hear it. My wife, who is not deaf cannot.

Just realized the real reason it's bothering me now. During the summer, the fan was on in my room and the non-annoying white noise covered up the annoying refrigerator rattle.

Times have changed. My first house was built in 1948 and had fuses. I had it upgraded when I bought it in 1966 and had maybe 8 breakers.

My second house built in 1978 had 12 breakers. I could not run the window AC in the dining room and make toast in the kitchen.

Present house, built in 2018 and a bit smaller, has 16 breakers.

Well if that's the case, a white noise generator might provide better sleep and is substantially cheaper than a new refrigerator. Or, as was already suggested, ear plugs.

My parent's 1975 house had two 200A services - total of 48 breakers.

They'd installed a heat-pump, but needed backup electric heat during the depth of winter. Later replaced with LP until the subdivision was provisioned for CH4.

Well, you could be right. The furnace will be running in a few days. I'll try to pay attention, but remembering to do that may have deteriorated too. And even if I remember, paying attention may have deteriorated.

Our all-electric high-rise condo was built in 1990 and as far as I know, the electric service is original. We're not the original owners. I looked at the breaker box but can't figure out how many amps the service is. All I know is that we've never popped a breaker and can run our

The service entrance breaker should be marked with the amperage.

It is likely a 200A service.

My 2-bedroom plus maid's room, 3-bathroom with large living room and dining room built in 1930 in Brooklyn had two 15-amp fuses in the apartment but both went through one 20 amp fuse in the basement.

I was still able to run a washing machine, which never blew a fuse, or a small AC, which might have once or twice.

The basement fuse box was in the basement (strangely) and eventually the they replaced the button for the basement with a key switch. There was no indoor stairway** so I took off the large brass? escutcheon that surrounded all the elevator buttons and ran a 12" piece of lamp cord from each side of the key switch to where the edge of the escutcheon was when I screwed it back on. I just had to touch both wires with a quarter or a key, and they keyswitch was bypassed so I could go to the basement after hours, to replace the fuse and other things.

Several years later when I moved out, I didn't tell anyone about it, and when I visited 10 years later, they had found and removed it. (Of course if I was still there, I'd have replaced it. Access to the basement enabled me to turn up the heat when the landlord illegally turned down the heat. I don't know if he ever noticed that I'd done that.)

That what I thought. No idea where the service entrance breaker is located. It's not in breaker box and is not on the directory that says which breaker controls which circuit(s). Strange. When we moved here I noticed that and meant to ask our building engineer but forgot to do so. I will next time I see him. I suspect it's located wherever our meter is; probably in some central room in the building's sub-basement.

Many breaker boxes in the US have one very large breaker usually at the top. It will be from 100 amps up. That breaker feeds the smaller ones below and tells the maximum current of the service.

Yup. That's what I had in the breaker box in my previous home.

And it may or may not be separated from the rest of the breakers in the panel. Square D QO service entrance boxes have the breaker at the top center. In a subpanel, some electricians install a XX ampere breaker in the upper left bus bar position to deenergize the subpanel busbars, where XX matches the upstream supply breaker and is within the ampacity of the wiring from the service entrance panel to the subpanel.

Top left is a 50/50 ganged breaker and top right is a 70/70 ganged breaker. So those two ganged breakers are my version of a single service entrance breaker?

Never heard of 240 amp service but then I'm not an electrician (I strongly doubt that over-code capacity breakers were installed as our county has an extremely comprehensive and strict program of requiring county inspection of all major construction and renovation projects).

Who knows? That 120 total amps at 240v. They could be feeding a subpanel. The 50 is enough for a big hot tub. It would be uncommon to split a 120 amp feed across two circuits, independently protected in my experience.

Weren't they labeled?

Real men don't need labels.

When I was about 9, we kept blowing a fuse and my mother called an electrician. He came out, unplugged everything, and had her plug things back in one at a time until he saw which thing blew the fuse. I was 9 and I was sort of embarrassed. *I* could have done that. Along with two** other things, that started me on home repair and repair in general.