heater inspection

[RonNNN]

Your expertise in automotive is severely lacking, so I'd *suggest* you stick to topics that you know a little better.

[clare]

Most of them only in the other direction - many driven by Yahoos with open Tall-Boys in their hands.

[clare]

You are talking "emission testing" Safety checks are a totally different kettle of fish - up here only required on non-commercial vehicles for transfer of ownership or when required by insurance company (usually on vehicles over 20 years old) Commercial vehicles and vehicles towing heavy trailers get inspected more often (anually or every six months, or every 2 years, depending on class) Then there are highway spot checks for commercial vehicles as well.You really do NOT want to fail one of those. Gets expensive!!!!!!

[clare]

The safety checks up here are NOT government - all the government gets is the cost of the certificates/paperwork - which, at best, if you have a good immagination, just MIGHT be revenue neutral. Our emission tests as of this year are also NO CHARGE for a first ispection. If it doesn't pass, IIRC, the retest is $37 a pop. If the check engine light is not on, and has not been on and reset within the last 2 weeks or 200 miles you are pretty much guaranteed to pass on vehicles newer than 1998 - pretty much so on 1996 and 7 too, although the test process is a bit more stringent. How you can call that a cash grab is beyond me - - - .

[clare]

Trader don't know squat - period. I only see his crap when someone else replies to him.

[clare]

To the best of my knowlege Chrysler hasn't used one since the late seventies.Mabee as early as 1972. I have not had one on any of my fords since 1995. I think there was one on my1989 Aerostar - cannot remember that far ago. Just do a search trying to buy one for any late model car - particularly with AC (what car doesn't today) and see if you can find a part number ----- I tried Chrysler and only found the one for a 1971 (chtysler 300 and about 15 other models, all using the same part)

[clare]

Just about anything in the sixties had a valve. Many early to mid '70s, and a small proportion of cars in the '80s (my 1980 Corrola wagon and 1981 Tercel did), but extremely few "current" vehicles (cars less than 15 yeats old are "current") have heater valves. I'd hazard a guess less than 25% of 20 year old cars have heater control valves.

[clare]

On Sat, 08 Jul 2017 23:39:41 -0400, micky wrote:

As of 2006, this was the requirement in Ontario. It got stiffer in

2016 - - -

The following items shall be inspected, and the motor vehicle shall be denied an SSC if:

?In the body and interior:

a) any bumper, fender or mudguard has been removed or is mounted insecurely; b) any body part has protruding sharp edges that could be hazardous to pedestrians or passengers; c) any hood latch or passenger door does not operate as intended; d) the driver's sun visor does not operate properly; e) any occupant seat is insecure or fails to maintain its adjustment; f) the inside and/or outside rearview mirrors are loose, cracked or have any significant reductions of the reflective surface, or the inside mirror (where required) is missing; g) where required, the seat belt assemblies are missing, insecure, damaged, inoperative or do not function as intended; h) the frame or any structural unitized member is broken or cracked; has any loose or missing connecting fasteners; or is perforated with rust that could downgrade the safety of the vehicle; or i) The underbody, including the trunk floor pan, is perforated by rust or damaged or has any opening that may allow entry of exhaust gas.

Glazing a) any glass, where required, is other than safety glass; b) any glazing material has exposed sharp edges, a missing part or is insecure; c) any safety glass in the windshield, or to the left or right of the driver, has been replaced with any vision-obstructing material, or is clouded or fogged so as to affect the driver's vision; d) the windshield has any star, crack or stone chip in the area swept by the driver's wiper blade that could affect the driver's vision; or e) the driver's window does not open freely. Lighting and Electrical a) any prescribed lamp fails to operate or interferes with any other circuit; b) any turn signal indicator lamp fails to operate properly; c) any lamp or reflector is loose or missing in whole or in part, or is discoloured; d) any headlamp is covered with a coloured lacquer or is fitted with any device affecting brightness (e.g. headlamp shields); e) any headlamp shutter or retracting headlamp fails to operate properly or is not secured in the fully-open position; f) any headlamp is aligned incorrectly; g) the headlamp dimmer switch or high-beam indicating light fails to operate as intended; h) the horn fails to operate or is insecure on its mount; i) the windshield wiper/washer assemblies and the heating and defrosting systems do not function as originally intended; j) where originally fitted, the neutral safety switch has been removed or allows the starter motor to operate in any other than the neutral and park positions; or k) the speedometer is not in good working order.

"Prescribed Lights" is the phrase used to cover the lighting requirements of vehicles for the purposes of the HTA, and applies to all vehicles, including passenger cars, light and heavy trucks and trailers. "Prescribed Lights" vary with vehicle dimensions and include the lights listed below:

Headlamps: no more than four, and shall be white or amber in colour;

Turn signals: shall be self illuminating;

Stop lights: shall be red or yellow in colour;

Tail Lights: shall be red in colour;

Licence plate: rear plate must be illuminated by a white light;

Reflectors: shall be red in colour, located at the rear and as close as practical to the outside of the vehicle body (most tail light lenses incorporate a reflective lens in their construction); and

Side markers: one on each side near the front, green or amber in colour, and one on each side near the rear, red in colour.

NOTE: Although side marker lights are not required for certification of a motor vehicle with a length of 6.1 metres (20 feet) or less, the Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (CMVSS) requires all vehicles manufactured on or after January 1, 1971, to be equipped with side marker lights.

Engine and Controls a) with the engine running, there is any visible leakage in the fuel system (the fuel tank does not have to be filled before inspection for leaks); b) any attachment or component of the fuel system is insecure or missing, including a proper fuel filler cap; c) the accelerator linkage fails to return the engine speed to idle when the pedal is released; or, d) the power steering belt is defective, incorrectly adjusted or missing. Exhaust System and Manifolds a) any exhaust component is missing or mounted insecurely; b) any exhaust leakage is present, other than from the manufacturer's drain holes; c) any exhaust component is within the occupant compartment, or is so located or unguarded that any occupant may be burned by entering or leaving the vehicle; or d) the exhaust system has been shortened or modified from original, so as to fail to direct the exhaust beyond the underbody of the occupant compartment or luggage compartment. NOTE: Although emission control devices are not required to be inspected for the purpose of issuing an 550, the motor vehicle will be in violation of the Environmental Protection Act if any component of the emission control system is inoperative, defective, has been removed, or fails to function as intended.

Trailer Hitch a) any trailer hitch or attachment is damaged, excessively worn or insecure as to affect its proper operation; or, b) any trailer hitch lock assembly fails to operate as intended. Steering and Suspension a) any visible leakage of fluid is present in the power steering system or the reservoir fluid level is too low; b) the steering column, box or couplings are excessively worn or loose on their mountings, or parts are missing or loose; c) any steering linkage joint is worn or loose; d) any steering system, or suspension locking device or clamp is missing, loose or worn so as to affect its proper operation; e) the front wheels are visibly out of alignment; f) the front wheels fail to turn from full right to full left freely; g) free movement of the steering wheel exceeds manufacturer's limits; h) the power steering system does not operate as intended; i) any component, or attachment of the suspension system, or its supports, is excessively worn, corroded, broken, bent, cracked, loose, disconnected or missing; j) the front or rear axles are tracking improperly so as to affect handling the vehicle; k) any ball joint is worn beyond manufacturer's limits; or I) any wheel or axle bearing is excessively worn, loose or damaged.

Wheels and Tires NOTE: Only those wheels/tires installed on axles are inspected. a) any wheel-retaining device is worn, defective, loose or missing; b) any wheel is cracked, excessively bent or has been repaired by welding; c) any wheel spoke is loose, broken or missing; d) tire shows any exposed cord; e) any abnormal bump, bulge or knot is present; f) any tire makes contact with any vehicle component; g) any tire bears the markings "not for highway use" or "farm use only"; h) any tire is worn beyond the minimum allowed tread depth; e.g. built-in wear bar indicators are showing on two adjacent major tread grooves at three equal spacings around the circumference of the tire; i) any tire is of a smaller size than vehicle manufacturer's specified minimum size; j) any mixture of 50 to 60 series are installed on the front axle and any other series on the rear; k) any tire differs in construction type from any other tire on the same axle; or, I) except on a vehicle fitted with dual rear tires, any mixture of radial tires are on the front axle and belted-bias or bias ply tires are installed on the rear axle.

Brakes a) any fluid or vacuum leakage is present in the braking system; b) the brake fluid in the brake master cylinder is below the manufacturer's recommended minimum level; c) any brake tubing has heavy corrosion scaling; d) any vacuum or hydraulic hose or tube is damaged, insecure, missing or chafes against any part of the vehicle; e) with the foot brake applied, the brake pedal moves toward the floor; f) the brakes, including the parking brake, are not adjusted properly; g) any brake, including the parking brake, fails to release immediately when the pedal or lever is released; h) any mechanical, vacuum or hydraulic component is missing, cracked, loose, badly worn, seized or damaged so as to affect its operation; i) any hydraulic component is leaking fluid; j) with the motor running and the brake pedal applied, the brake failure warning light comes on; k) with the vacuum depleted from the power brake (by depressing the brake pedal three or four times), the motor shut off and the brake pedal depressed, the pedal fails to move momentarily towards the floor when the motor is started; I) any brake drum or rotor is worn beyond the manufacturer's limits, or the friction surfaces are damaged mechanically other than from normal wear; m) any brake rotor cooling fin is cracked or broken; n) any bonded brake lining is thinner than 1.5 millimeters (1/16 inch) at its thinnest point; o) any riveted brake lining is thinner than 0.8 millimeters (1/32 inch) at its thinnest point; p) any brake lining is broken or loose on its shoe or pad; q) any brake lining is contaminated; r) any wheel hub seal, axle seal or oil retainer is missing or leaking; s) the parking brake does not hold properly and release fully; t) where originally fitted, the dual-circuit brake warning lamp fails to operate as intended; or, u) on the road test, the braking system does not brake evenly or stop the vehicle within the required distance. Some of the standards contained in this PAGE rely on the mechanical experience and sound judgment of the inspection mechanic, based on the inspection standards as set down in the Highway Traffic Act.?

[clare]

That's what "stop leak" was invented for. I've stopped up minor leaks in heater cores SCORES of times with anything from a stop-leak cube to Knights Sealer to BarsLeaks. I know guys who have done it with a teaspoon full of finley ground black pepper (and no, it does NOT make the car sneeze - - - )

[trader_4]

It's obvious he's talking about the safety check tests he even said that when they got rid of the testing there was no noticeable effect on the accident rate. Exactly the same thing happened here in NJ and there is no statistically significant differences in accident rates between states that still have safety tests and those that don't. It's very rare that there is an accident and the cause is faulty equipment.

[trader_4]

Here's a link to a heater valve for BMWs:

BMW Heater Control Valve (X5 X6) - Genuine BMW 64116910544

FOR BMW E53 E70 F15 X5 00-15 E71 F16 X6

And that fits many current models, not 20 year olds.

Here's one for current a very popular high volume car, the Honda Accord, 2014 model:

HONDA OEM 2014 Accord-Heater Control Valve 79715T3VA01

Why are we finding what you claim is not supposed to be there?

[trader_4]

ROFL!

Here's a link to a heater valve for BMWs:

BMW Heater Control Valve (X5 X6) - Genuine BMW 64116910544

FOR BMW E53 E70 F15 X5 00-15 E71 F16 X6

And that fits many current models, not 20 year olds.

Here's one for a very popular high volume car,the Honda Accord,

2014 model:

HONDA OEM 2014 Accord-Heater Control Valve 79715T3VA01

And Ed has posted many links too that show heater valves for autos. Those two above are particularly definitive to the issue at hand because one fits most late model BMWs built in the past 5 years or so, the other fits the Honda Accord. I looked for a 2014 model specifically. So there you have it, lots of late model cars have them. Lots of cars, most cars, had them 20 years ago too.

It's you who offers up nothing burgers. You said your 1995 Pontiac GT didn't have one. I went to the online parts stores, there is no 1995 Pontiac GT. It may be a Firebird variant or something, but nothing comes up as a GT, so I couldn't check it out any further. Like I said, you just need to look harder.

[Vic Smith]

I should be more careful with you guys. Although I mentioned Grand Am above, I foolishly later said 1995 Pontiac GT. And you actually looked for a Pontiac GT. Well, you need to use the model when looking for parts. Like 2003 Chevy Impala. A very common car, which also doesn't have a heater control valve. Anyway, since it appears you guys don't want to learn anything that's not in your experience, I'll just bow out.

[trader_4]

Better tell Chrysler, Pilgrim!

Dodge CHRYSLER OEM 99-03 Ram 3500 Van-Heater Control Valve 55055588

Or for current models from BMW and Honda:

Here's a link to a heater valve for BMWs:

BMW Heater Control Valve (X5 X6) - Genuine BMW 64116910544

FOR BMW E53 E70 F15 X5 00-15 E71 F16 X6

And that fits many current models, not 20 year olds.

Here's one for a very popular high volume car,the Honda Accord,

2014 model:

HONDA OEM 2014 Accord-Heater Control Valve 79715T3VA01

[RonNNN]

I offered up *nothing* other than to say a heater core will still leak whether there is flow or not. I've worked on cars/trucks that had heater control valves and cars/trucks that didn't have heater control valves. I think you are confusing who said what/when/and where.

Again, I *suggest* you stick to topics you know.

[trader_4]

Well, WTF do you expects? We can't de-cypher your word salad.

No shit sherlock. That's what I told you, that when I went to look for a part, there was no 1995 Pontiac GT. Geez!

And note that you still can't clear up WTF car you're talking about. "I earlier said Grand AM" "Then I said Pontiac 1995 GT" And yet you still don't spell out the specific model clearly.

We don't want to learn anything? I posted link after link, so did Ed of heater control valves for all kinds of cars. Again, the fact that most BMWs, probably all current models have heater control valves and that the Honda Accord, a very popular, typical car has them in current models was just shown to you, yet you don't even acknowledge that and address nits instead.

For the record, now that you provided accurate info, I went and looked and I agree, I don't see a heater valve for a

1995 Pontiac Grand Am. But it hardly proves the point that Clare claimed, that most modern cars don't have them, or your point that they were disappearing decades ago, because while you've provided one car, I've provided a whole lot of current cars that still have them. And I agreed several posts ago that it looks like some cars don't use them. It still makes no sense to me, compared to the valve design for the reasons stated.

[RonNNN]

Ditch the shovel before it's too late. Bite the bullet and accept the fact that you don't know jack about automotive climate control systems.

[trader_4]

Then why are youjumping on me with your nasty condescending reply and not suggesting that to Clare? He's the one that said modern cars pretty much don't have heater valves anymore. I posted links that show most, maybe all late model BMWs have them. Current Honda Accords, how many millions of those are there, have them. Ed also posted links showing many cars have them. And you want to claim that I'm the one that doesn't know what they are talking about? Unbelievable!

[trader_4]

Clearly I and Ed have provided the links that show many modern cars have heater control valves, that they are very common. That is directly opposite to what Clare claimed. How is that shoveling? And now you want to claim that IDK about auto climate control systems? I know how they work and I know that modern cars still have them. I even pointed out that I don't see why an auto manufacturer would want an always hot heater core inside the car, to fight with the AC system. Even if there is no air movement through it, it's still a hot box at 210F all the time. And those half-assed flaps never achieve anything close to 100% air closure. I didn't see any of you alleged HVAC experts discussing that or explaining why a design that relies on an acutator to block off hot air from a constant hot box, is a better design than a simple valve to regulate the hot water. Why would you want screw around with air flow rate when it's air temp that you want to regulate?

BTW, since your such an auto genius, what's one of the steps that's included in most, probably every service manual I've ever read, when refilling the car cooling system after it's been drained. They tell you to set the heat to high. Maybe Clare can explain why that is, if there is typically no valve in the heater flow circuit? Or you other geniuses who pretent they have been designed out? Where are your links? Crickets...

This is so typical of those of you losing arguments. Provide no links, no facts and then start the ad hominem attacks.

[RonNNN]

I won't even try to claim more or less cars use heater control valves these days, it's irrelevant to whether a heater core will leak of not whether it uses one or not. From what I've read, Clare was/is in that line of work, and I would put more faith in what he says along automotive lines than I would yours. As I've said, it was my lifelong business until I retired a few years ago.

You guys want to *shift* the conversation to fit your needs, but can't stand the facts as they apply to the subject at hand.