heater inspection

I'm only acquainted with car inspection in Pa.and Md. but on TV I saw a woman who bougght a used car, found out that the heater core was leaking, and didn't take it for inspection until after she fixed the heater.
Is there any state where that would cause a car to fail inspection?
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micky wrote:

Not enough information. However, ANY leaks that were noticeable in any vehicle system would fail the Texas inspection. Texas does not take the car apart for inspections like in other states though. Nothing is removed.
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In rec.autos.tech, on Fri, 07 Jul 2017 23:42:55 -0500, Paul in Houston

Okay, that answers my question, there is at least one state.

She was in Massachusetts, which allows someone to get his money back if he takes it for inspectation within 7 days of purchase, it fails, and he tells the seller about this in 14 days. Even on an asis sale. But she never took if for inspection.
My mother lived in Pa. and for years had a heater core that leaked. I tried drilling a hole in the floor board and threading a wick through it, under the carpet, but it didn't work. Maybe antifreeze and water doesn't wick well, and anyway, the wick blew away after being in the wind for 1000 miles. Pa. had inspection twice a year thne and I'm sure this wouldn't have caused a failure, though Pa. does more than inspect for safety. If you've go
Maryland doesn't inspect the cooling system at all: http://coopersautoservicemd.com/maryland-state-inspection-checklist/
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wrote:

Interesting they do not even require the defroster to work?????
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In rec.autos.tech, on Sat, 08 Jul 2017 09:19:02 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

That would certainly be a good idea, but the Coopers Auto page doesn't list it. He lists wipers but not ws washers. (Nope, not listed. See link at bottom.)
Maybe it's not complete. I had tried to find the State of Maryland rules directly, but only found a 150 page pdf file. They should make it easier to find so people can do their own inspection beforee they take it, since they only get 30 days to finish once they start.
The last car the guy said I couldn't pass because of some oil dripping on the exhaust pipe. I don't see that on the list either. He passed me for an extra 10 or 20 dollars.
The inspection is only once, each time a car is sold used. Although if the police notice something from the list, they can make you fix it.
This is all I could find on a state webpage http://www.mva.maryland.gov/about-mva/info/58000ASE/58000-01T.htm :
Appendix A:
Vehicle Parts or Systems to be Inspected for passenger cars
Steering system • Wheel alignment • Suspension • Brake system • Wheels / tires • Fuel system • Exhaust system • Bumpers • Fenders • Lights • Electrical system • Mirrors • Glazing (windows) • Wipers • Hood / catches • Door handle latches • Floor / trunk pans • Speedometer / odometer • Driver seat • Safety belts • Motor mounts • Gear shift indicator • Universal and CV (constant velocity) joints • Emissions equipment
Ah, here is the image of an actual Report checklist from 2010: https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-members/1441885-maryland-state-inspection-checklist.html
Maybe the standards were adopted before cars had defrosters. ;)
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On 7/8/2017 11:39 PM, micky wrote:

When I lived in PA had many cars inspected. No one ever checked the defroster or the washers. One never checked brakes either.
I has a '64 Karmen Ghia convertible that I paid $15 for. The heat ducts were rusted out so no heat, no defrost. I used to carry a squeegee and an ice scraper. Many things on that car should never pass inspection, but I always had a sticker on it.
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In rec.autos.tech, on Sun, 9 Jul 2017 09:09:37 -0400, Ed Pawlowski

I wish I could have found an inspector like that. Would have made my life easier. One year when I was living in NYC more than Pa. I had my car inspected in NYS, had Pensyslvania plates, and paid car insurance at a NY address (because I wasn't trying to cheat the insurance company.) The NY inspection made no sense, but I never got a ticket.

LOL
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wrote:

On a Ghia convertible even WITH good tubes you could never get the cabin WARM. A gas heater was a good option in cold country.
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wrote:

As of 2006, this was the requirement in Ontario. It got stiffer in 2016 - - -
The following items shall be inspected, and the motor vehicle shall be denied an SSC if:
?In the body and interior:
a) any bumper, fender or mudguard has been removed or is mounted insecurely; b) any body part has protruding sharp edges that could be hazardous to pedestrians or passengers; c) any hood latch or passenger door does not operate as intended; d) the driver's sun visor does not operate properly; e) any occupant seat is insecure or fails to maintain its adjustment; f) the inside and/or outside rearview mirrors are loose, cracked or have any significant reductions of the reflective surface, or the inside mirror (where required) is missing; g) where required, the seat belt assemblies are missing, insecure, damaged, inoperative or do not function as intended; h) the frame or any structural unitized member is broken or cracked; has any loose or missing connecting fasteners; or is perforated with rust that could downgrade the safety of the vehicle; or i) The underbody, including the trunk floor pan, is perforated by rust or damaged or has any opening that may allow entry of exhaust gas.
Glazing a) any glass, where required, is other than safety glass; b) any glazing material has exposed sharp edges, a missing part or is insecure; c) any safety glass in the windshield, or to the left or right of the driver, has been replaced with any vision-obstructing material, or is clouded or fogged so as to affect the driver's vision; d) the windshield has any star, crack or stone chip in the area swept by the driver's wiper blade that could affect the driver's vision; or e) the driver's window does not open freely. Lighting and Electrical a) any prescribed lamp fails to operate or interferes with any other circuit; b) any turn signal indicator lamp fails to operate properly; c) any lamp or reflector is loose or missing in whole or in part, or is discoloured; d) any headlamp is covered with a coloured lacquer or is fitted with any device affecting brightness (e.g. headlamp shields); e) any headlamp shutter or retracting headlamp fails to operate properly or is not secured in the fully-open position; f) any headlamp is aligned incorrectly; g) the headlamp dimmer switch or high-beam indicating light fails to operate as intended; h) the horn fails to operate or is insecure on its mount; i) the windshield wiper/washer assemblies and the heating and defrosting systems do not function as originally intended; j) where originally fitted, the neutral safety switch has been removed or allows the starter motor to operate in any other than the neutral and park positions; or k) the speedometer is not in good working order.
"Prescribed Lights" is the phrase used to cover the lighting requirements of vehicles for the purposes of the HTA, and applies to all vehicles, including passenger cars, light and heavy trucks and trailers. "Prescribed Lights" vary with vehicle dimensions and include the lights listed below:
Headlamps: no more than four, and shall be white or amber in colour;
Turn signals: shall be self illuminating;
Stop lights: shall be red or yellow in colour;
Tail Lights: shall be red in colour;
Licence plate: rear plate must be illuminated by a white light;
Reflectors: shall be red in colour, located at the rear and as close as practical to the outside of the vehicle body (most tail light lenses incorporate a reflective lens in their construction); and
Side markers: one on each side near the front, green or amber in colour, and one on each side near the rear, red in colour.
NOTE: Although side marker lights are not required for certification of a motor vehicle with a length of 6.1 metres (20 feet) or less, the Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (CMVSS) requires all vehicles manufactured on or after January 1, 1971, to be equipped with side marker lights.
Engine and Controls a) with the engine running, there is any visible leakage in the fuel system (the fuel tank does not have to be filled before inspection for leaks); b) any attachment or component of the fuel system is insecure or missing, including a proper fuel filler cap; c) the accelerator linkage fails to return the engine speed to idle when the pedal is released; or, d) the power steering belt is defective, incorrectly adjusted or missing. Exhaust System and Manifolds a) any exhaust component is missing or mounted insecurely; b) any exhaust leakage is present, other than from the manufacturer's drain holes; c) any exhaust component is within the occupant compartment, or is so located or unguarded that any occupant may be burned by entering or leaving the vehicle; or d) the exhaust system has been shortened or modified from original, so as to fail to direct the exhaust beyond the underbody of the occupant compartment or luggage compartment. NOTE: Although emission control devices are not required to be inspected for the purpose of issuing an 550, the motor vehicle will be in violation of the Environmental Protection Act if any component of the emission control system is inoperative, defective, has been removed, or fails to function as intended.
Trailer Hitch a) any trailer hitch or attachment is damaged, excessively worn or insecure as to affect its proper operation; or, b) any trailer hitch lock assembly fails to operate as intended. Steering and Suspension a) any visible leakage of fluid is present in the power steering system or the reservoir fluid level is too low; b) the steering column, box or couplings are excessively worn or loose on their mountings, or parts are missing or loose; c) any steering linkage joint is worn or loose; d) any steering system, or suspension locking device or clamp is missing, loose or worn so as to affect its proper operation; e) the front wheels are visibly out of alignment; f) the front wheels fail to turn from full right to full left freely; g) free movement of the steering wheel exceeds manufacturer's limits; h) the power steering system does not operate as intended; i) any component, or attachment of the suspension system, or its supports, is excessively worn, corroded, broken, bent, cracked, loose, disconnected or missing; j) the front or rear axles are tracking improperly so as to affect handling the vehicle; k) any ball joint is worn beyond manufacturer's limits; or I) any wheel or axle bearing is excessively worn, loose or damaged.
Wheels and Tires NOTE: Only those wheels/tires installed on axles are inspected. a) any wheel-retaining device is worn, defective, loose or missing; b) any wheel is cracked, excessively bent or has been repaired by welding; c) any wheel spoke is loose, broken or missing; d) tire shows any exposed cord; e) any abnormal bump, bulge or knot is present; f) any tire makes contact with any vehicle component; g) any tire bears the markings "not for highway use" or "farm use only"; h) any tire is worn beyond the minimum allowed tread depth; e.g. built-in wear bar indicators are showing on two adjacent major tread grooves at three equal spacings around the circumference of the tire; i) any tire is of a smaller size than vehicle manufacturer's specified minimum size; j) any mixture of 50 to 60 series are installed on the front axle and any other series on the rear; k) any tire differs in construction type from any other tire on the same axle; or, I) except on a vehicle fitted with dual rear tires, any mixture of radial tires are on the front axle and belted-bias or bias ply tires are installed on the rear axle.
Brakes a) any fluid or vacuum leakage is present in the braking system; b) the brake fluid in the brake master cylinder is below the manufacturer's recommended minimum level; c) any brake tubing has heavy corrosion scaling; d) any vacuum or hydraulic hose or tube is damaged, insecure, missing or chafes against any part of the vehicle; e) with the foot brake applied, the brake pedal moves toward the floor; f) the brakes, including the parking brake, are not adjusted properly; g) any brake, including the parking brake, fails to release immediately when the pedal or lever is released; h) any mechanical, vacuum or hydraulic component is missing, cracked, loose, badly worn, seized or damaged so as to affect its operation; i) any hydraulic component is leaking fluid; j) with the motor running and the brake pedal applied, the brake failure warning light comes on; k) with the vacuum depleted from the power brake (by depressing the brake pedal three or four times), the motor shut off and the brake pedal depressed, the pedal fails to move momentarily towards the floor when the motor is started; I) any brake drum or rotor is worn beyond the manufacturer's limits, or the friction surfaces are damaged mechanically other than from normal wear; m) any brake rotor cooling fin is cracked or broken; n) any bonded brake lining is thinner than 1.5 millimeters (1/16 inch) at its thinnest point; o) any riveted brake lining is thinner than 0.8 millimeters (1/32 inch) at its thinnest point; p) any brake lining is broken or loose on its shoe or pad; q) any brake lining is contaminated; r) any wheel hub seal, axle seal or oil retainer is missing or leaking; s) the parking brake does not hold properly and release fully; t) where originally fitted, the dual-circuit brake warning lamp fails to operate as intended; or, u) on the road test, the braking system does not brake evenly or stop the vehicle within the required distance. Some of the standards contained in this PAGE rely on the mechanical experience and sound judgment of the inspection mechanic, based on the inspection standards as set down in the Highway Traffic Act.?
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On Saturday, July 8, 2017 at 12:45:08 AM UTC-4, Paul in Houston TX wrote:

NJ, MV inspection doesn't care about leaks, it's emissions compliance only. I don't see how any state inspection would spot a leaking heater core, u nless it's pouring out. In warm weather, the coolant flow is off, there wo uld be no leaking. The state was MA, why don't you google for what they che ck at inspection?
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On 7/8/2017 6:56 AM, trader_4 wrote:

Exception for fuel leaks? If oil drips or radiator leaks mattered, none of my cars in the 60's would have passed.
I don't see how any state inspection would spot a leaking heater core, unless it's pouring out. In warm weather, the coolant flow is off, there would be no leaking. The state was MA, why don't you google for what they check at inspection?

MA does not care if your heater core leaks or if you piss on the seat.
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Florida doesn't inspect cars at all unless you live in one of the polluted blue cities. Then they scan for emission codes.
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On Sat, 08 Jul 2017 09:46:02 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Pretty obvious when you drive there. Some of the worst clunkers I've seen on the road ANYWHERE - and I've driven in a lot of "third world" areas.
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On Sat, 08 Jul 2017 12:41:10 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

So what? They were still passing you.
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On 7/8/2017 1:44 PM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

e have limited inspection in CT. The accident rate is no worse than states that do inspections.
Responsible people get their car repaired. Irresponsible people find ways around the inspection.
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That was pretty much what Florida figured out 40 years ago. It did not have any noticeable effect on our accident rate either. Most accidents involve alcohol or general inattention anyway (phones, food/drink or screwing with electronic things on the dash), not equipment failure. As was pointed out here, most inspection these days is just dumping the codes on the computer anyway.
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On 07/08/2017 03:49 PM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Inspections are just another government cash grab. All they do is waste our time and money.
Just another way for the government to take money from the taxpayers and give it to the lazy stupid democrats.
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On 7/8/2017 4:59 PM, Trumpster wrote:

In PA and MA that states get very little of the money. The real cash grab is the shoddy independent inspection shops. Yes, Mrs. Trumpster, your ball joints failed the inspection and it is dangerous to even drive home. For a mere $895 dollars we can fix it this afternoon.
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wrote:

The safety checks up here are NOT government - all the government gets is the cost of the certificates/paperwork - which, at best, if you have a good immagination, just MIGHT be revenue neutral. Our emission tests as of this year are also NO CHARGE for a first ispection. If it doesn't pass, IIRC, the retest is $37 a pop. If the check engine light is not on, and has not been on and reset within the last 2 weeks or 200 miles you are pretty much guaranteed to pass on vehicles newer than 1998 - pretty much so on 1996 and 7 too, although the test process is a bit more stringent. How you can call that a cash grab is beyond me - - - .
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On Sat, 08 Jul 2017 15:49:27 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

You are talking "emission testing" Safety checks are a totally different kettle of fish - up here only required on non-commercial vehicles for transfer of ownership or when required by insurance company (usually on vehicles over 20 years old) Commercial vehicles and vehicles towing heavy trailers get inspected more often (anually or every six months, or every 2 years, depending on class) Then there are highway spot checks for commercial vehicles as well.You really do NOT want to fail one of those. Gets expensive!!!!!!
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