Ed said he tripped and reset the GFCI.
Would he have been able to reset it if the line and load were reversed?
IOW besides being shipped tripped, are modern day GFCI?s built different than the old ones that weren?t shipped that way?
UL 943 was changed for single phase 120v class A GFCIs Feb 1, 2006 and the manufacturers started changing their products going out ther door then but there was still some "New old stock" in the pipeline. Any GFCI manufactured after that should have the feature tho.
As I wrote, "old" GFCIs, when tripped, separate 2 circuits: line+receptacle+control -- from load (wire-through). I believe they can be reset if wired reverse line-load. Reset is a mechanical operation that connects the 2 circuits.
"Recent" GFCIs, when tripped, separate 3 circuits: line+control -- and receptacle -- and load. This is a feature added to handle reverse line-load errors. With reverse line-load the GFCI will not reset. They apparently don't reset unless there is power to line+control before the reset operation. They are shipped tripped so if originally installed backwards they won't work. (Don't know why this function couldn't be added to a 2 circuit GFCI.)
We are still waiting to hear if the bathroom GFCI is actually powering the receptacle there. It could just be a bad GFCI. OTOH the kitchen could still be on another circuit. They were required in the bathroom in 75 but didn't show up in the kitchen until 87. This might be an old trailer. The kitchen GFCI might have been swapped out for a regular receptacle and he just has a circuit problem. I think I would start with a bug eye tester to see if this is an open grounded or ungrounded conductor and go from there. If the grounded conductor is open it will be easy to find the right breaker. Poking around with the bug eye might isolate this to a back stabbed receptacle that is bad or something.
Trailer is 2010. I've not gotten tow it but someone will be checking tonight, hopefully.
Take one of those 3 light outlet testers with you. You might get lucky and this is an open neutral. That will make it a lot easier to isolate. If this is not just a bad GFCI you probably have an open connection at a device. An open neutral means you can find the breaker, trip all the others and find out which the last good receptacle is. Sometime just plugging a radio in a dead one, turned way up and banging on the other receptacles might make it squawk when you hit the bad one. This is a hit or miss thing when you don't have a clue how it is wired..
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