Most of my city sidewalk is a bit aged and grass and weeds like to pop up in those cracks that come with age. I used to put gasoline in a plastic bottle and put one of those dishwashing pop up caps on it. I was able to direct the just where I wanted it and had no weeds for about 5 months. Now I use that bottle to put a solution of Roundup in it and have no weeds or grass in those cracks until the next year.
I've bought the quart bottle of Roundup and yes it was expensive but that quart will make several gallons of the solution. Last time I bought any I got Home Depots brand and can tell no difference in it and Roundup. H.D. brand was about $5 cheaper.
You're looking in the wrong place. Look at an ag supply store. A 2 1/2 gallon jug of concentrate should be about $45 and that will make 320 gallons of 1 percent working solution
That's what I buy online, the generic glyphosate, I think it was about $70 for 2.5 gallons shipped and it makes several hundred gallons at 3%, which I guess is about the strength of the pre-made. This is one product where the cost between buying that ready-made and concentrate is HUGE. You don't have to buy many gallons of the ready-made at HD to get to $70.
yep, that can be a bad move. since i am reactive to poison ivy and many other plants i have to be aware of what i'm going into and keep covered up (then wash things well after- wards).
here i cut poison ivy back and dig out the roots that i can get at. it is not a fast growing vine so manual methods will work if you are persistent (and careful about what you are doing).
the thing is that birds/animals will drop seeds and you can have it return from seeds previously dropped. so you must do status checks once in a while to keep it from coming back.
i would never use salt in any area i was planning on growing something.
If you know poison oak as I do, the only real way to get rid of an infestation is mechanical. I suspect poison ivy to be similar, when in heavy infestations (heavy being defined as entire hillsides so thick that you can't traverse them on foot due to the vines impeding progress in all ways except lying on your belly and crawling through the stuff).
Machines are nice, but if you're on steep slopes, as I am, then you crawl uphill to the source (which is easily 20 or more feet from where you start at the end of the vines).
Once at the base, you cut and poison. The poison I use is 45% glyphosate, with a few drops of liquid detergent mixed in, but you can use whatever works for you.
Your clothes will be stained black from the urushiol (if your clothes are not literally stained black, then you have never been in poison oak or ivy of any import).
Usually you have plenty of time to deal with the stuff, so, you can wait a few weeks before you manually pull it all out (this time you can start from the edges).
In really heavy stuff, covering entire hillsides, I generally cut a checkerboard pattern across the hill and up the hill, which intersects thousands upon thousands of vines, and then I manually clear it out about a year later.
Expect the genocide to continue for about the next ten years, as the sprouts will grow back incessantly.
But the only hard work is in the beginning where the poison oak is so thick that it prevents you walking through it. Once you have tunnelled your way though it, it just gets easier year after year.
Glyphosate concentrate at %45 is the strongest I can find.
I add a few drops of dish detergent (added surfactant) and I paint the cut vines (usually my poison oak vines are about an inch to 3 and sometimes
4 inches in diameter).
Lot's of people "say" you can "spray" poison oak, but, they must have little bitsy stuff or they're using a helicopter to spray it 'cuz when it's that thick that you can't even walk or crawl through it on your hands and knees, no amount of 'spraying' is going to work.
You do know that, technically, since plant cells have cell walls, that the oil is not (inherently) on the *outside* of the leaves, roots, stems, and vines.
However, that's just a technicality, since it doesn't take all that much to damage a cell wall. In fact, we've noticed that, when we lead hikes, the people in the back of the line get it worse than those cutting their way through at the front, because the guy swinging the machete gets past the stuff before it starts weeping.
It's not much consolation though, because on those hikes, EVERYONE gets exposed even though we're all covered from head to toe in double-layer clothing (even in the hottest weather).
Nobody is immune. That's not how type IV cell mediated immunity works.
There's a random element to the game, and that randomness plays out over a lifetime.
So, those who "say" they are immune, just haven't gotten that random card yet.
Or, they aren't confronted with *this* (which I had to cut with a chain saw just to get to the parent vines):
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Yup. You can cut and pull it out faster than it can grow. Of course, it probably has a fifty-year head start on you.
When I cut the 3-inch vines, I keep a spray bottle of glyphosate concentrate on my belt (45% solution) with a few drops of liquid dish detergent added as a surfactant.
See my very short video on the subject a few years ago:
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That kills from the cut down.
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Yup. For heavy infestations, you can clear a hillside in a season, but you'll spend the next ten years catching up with the sprouts.
The stiuff is bad enough to make someone a mile downwind VERY sick if the wind is right - particularly if you are in an inversion or it's a bit foggy to hold the smoke down.
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