I would not recommended cutting the ground (green) wire in the connecting cable. If there should be an open fault in the neutral wire, the frame of the generator will become energized via the load and this is obviously VERY dangerous.
there are 2 problems of having the neutral and ground bonded both at the house panel and at the generator.
1) if the generator has a GFI, it will trip. this is obviously an operational problem.
2) some load current will flow in the ground (green) wire. It will be shared by the neutral (white) wire and the ground (green) wire. This is a code issue but not an actual safety issue that I can see.
If there is no GFI involved, then there not really any safety issue. Just let it be bonded at both places. Its the GFI that makes it more complicated.
mark
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T
trader_4
I agree it would be if the generator is not earthed. If it is earthed, then it seems very similar to how power is delivered to the house to begin with. The frame would be at the same potential as the earth, so you would not have a shock hazard. That is of course assuming that the generator is properly earthed and I guess therein lies the problem. It's not a permanent install and at best it would rely on a human connecting the generator ground to an installed ground system. Also bad, that would be a separate step, aside from plugging in the power cord. If they don't then you have the hazard scenario you're describing.
Yes, I agree with that. That's one of the things I said when the OP first posted.
I agree with that too.
Except of course that it's a code violation. But there must be people all over the place, in FL right now for example, that are hooking up generators of all kinds with 3 conductor plus ground cords. And I'll bet very few know if the generator has it's neutral bonded or not and whether their house has the neutral switched or not.
And then you have the issue that if the generator is set up with the neutral not connected to the frame, then it's a violation for use as a generator to power typical loads that are plugged into it, eg lights, power tools, etc. You could set it up so it can be switched, but then that relies on someone putting the switch in the right position. And if you have a standby transfer set up for a generator that has the neutral not connected at the frame, a different generator could one day replace it or be used when the need for emergency power arises. Or vice-versa. And worse, if you do what the code says you need to do with a generator that does have the neutral connected to the frame, which is to earth the system there, then you're relying on someone properly earthing the generator frame before using it. If they don't, then you have the generator unearthed, or partially earthed by virtue of sitting on the ground.
Seems to me, and it sounds like you agree, that having the generator neutral bonded to the frame, not switching the neutral at the house, and using a 4 conductor cord might be the most practical and maybe the safest solution overall, even though it does not meet code. Unless we're missing some safety hazard there. I googled a bit see a lot of people talking about the various aspects of all this, and no solution that I've seen covers all possible scenarios when it comes to connecting a portable generator.
M
makolber
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If there is no GFI, yes, I agree this is the most practical and safest (but not strictly code compliant) solution.
If a GFI is present on the generator, a more complicated solution is needed.
there is a bunch of previous discussion
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m
C
clare
I have the interlock installed - works great!
C
clare
As simple as it is to "break" the generator bond, and even easier to rebond when required, it should be a total no-brainer to make it meet code.
S
Stagger Lee
Why are you such an idiot?
LoLoLoL
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