Damn! - the RFI filter trick didn't work for the furnace after all.
Got around to building an official RFI filter in an electrical box,
but it all together, and it didn't work! - flame sensor kicking out.
Back to the drawing board, running experiments, come to find
out that is has something to do with "grounding" (as one poster
mentioned). Took all the RFI crap out of the circuit, and just
ran line/neutral from the Honda eu2000i, and let the ground
float, and it all works fine. I have a cheater cord which is an
old 2-prong cloths iron coard, with aligator clips on the other
end. Plug that into the generator, and aligator clip to just
line and neutral of the 3-prong plug on the furnace, and it
works. Whats the dealy-O ? I don't imagine that I can tie
neutral and ground together at the generator since its an inverter.
Ain't that something. when I "thought" I got it to work with
the RFI torroiods and such, I realized that I was testing all
of that with my trusty 2-prong cheater cord (I love that thing).
So when I thought I solved it with the RFI filter, I was doing
it with the ground floating (which is all that it takes to make it
Back out to the bench with scope in hand, will let you know
what I ultimately conclude.
No, don't try to ground the portable generator at the generator that is
totally unnecessary effort. Instead install a double pole double throw
center off switch in place of the furnace disconect switch. One end of
the switch connects the furnace to the neutral and hot of the furnace
branch circuit of the homes wiring. The other end of the switch
connects the furnace to the neutral and hot of a flanged inlet to which
the female cord cap of an extension cord from the generator will
connect. since the switch is two pole the Equipment Grounding Conductor
(EGC) of the generator and the home are now interconnected. That will
clear up the furnaces floating neutral problem when on generator power.
"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous for
See? now *thats* the answer I was looking for!
Thats a wonderfull idea. I'm goning to try that
in a little bit here. If that works, then I'll try to
locate a DPDT switch thats approved for home
wiring. And this "flanged inlet" thing you are
talking must be one of them recessed male
extension cord connectors, like a "wall clock
recepticle". Which would be a cleaner deal -
just run the extension cord over to the furnace,
plug it in, and flip the switch. That way I wouldn't
have to unplug the furnace, and can actually go
back to having the furnace hard-wired. Right now
I got a big cord cap on the end of the BX cable
coming from the furnace.
Dude, you rock! Hell, I can cut that right into the side of
the furnace itself. I like it. Thanks man. For the switch,
I'll have to hunt that down. Or something clever like a
relay that will fall out when house power fails to connect
the firnace to the new recepticle. All good ideas, and I
really like this flanged thing. I always called them things
"wall clock recepticles". Also, could one cut one of these
things in the exterior or the house? (protected under an eve?)
Be good to easily connect the generator to the house when
the power goes out.
They say that note no longer applies. They now sell 2 EU2K kits,
type A, $157+$49 for a 12' hose, with an external regulator, and
"special," for $168 with a 12' hose, with a regulator that fits
under the Honda cover. The unit can be operated with the cover
in place with either kit. They say people prefer the A kit because
it is easier to install the kit and adjust the regulator.
Propane and NG only, unless you buy another carb and unbolt the converted
carb to go back to gasoline. They say a lot of people say they plan to do
that, but few ever go back to gasoline.
US Carb also sells the 70 lb Yamaha EF2400is for $1549 with a conversion kit
and an hour meter installed. These can be paralled like the Hondas, and
they have a "smart throttle" that runs the engine slower for lower loads,
so they may also have cogen potential. I wonder about the waveform from the
"PWM inverter." US Carb says the converted Yamaha is tri-fuel with no carb
swap, and Yamaha will definitely honor their warranty after conversion.
Honda is iffy about that.
Yamaha's specs a "greater than 8.5 hour run time" at 1000 watts with a 1.6
gallon gas tank, ie 5.31 kWh/gallon.
The Honda EU2000 burns 1.08 gallons of gasoline in 4 hours at 1600 W to make
6.4 kWh at 5.93 kWh/gal, ie 12% more electrical generation efficiency.
They both have a 2 kW rated output. The Yamaha has a larger engine with
a cast iron sleeve.
After I installed an hour meter on my Honda, and explained to my wife why
you guys recommended it, her immediate question was "Why doesn't Honda sell
it with one - at least as an option?" A very good question.
I put my hourmeter right on the transfer switch outlet. It's not
powered unless the gen's running it, so it'll count the gen hours
for now at least. Next spring I'll worry more about getting it
actually on the unit itself.
: > > US Carb also sells the 70 lb Yamaha EF2400is for $1549 with
: > > kit and an hour meter installed.
: > After I installed an hour meter on my Honda, and explained to
my wife why
: > you guys recommended it, her immediate question was "Why
: > it with one - at least as an option?" A very good question.
: > --
: Did you buy the hour meter from Honda? Where did you place it;
: outside of the cover. I have one but don't see (or am
: convenient place to attach it.
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