The Honda EU series is the best unit made for what it does, but there
are others , even a 5500 watt EU is available so 2 is not necessary. EU
series are so quiet you can`t hear them from 10-30ft, are load dependant
rpm and produce equal to grid sign wave=clean power for computers. Yes
they cost 3-5 times that of other units. Load dependant rpm means at say
300 watts the motor may only turn 800 rpm vs 3600 , at that rpm the EU
can last 12000 hrs where as 3600 rpm cheaper units can last as little as
300 hrs for a cheap unit to 3000 hrs.
has an extensive supply Yamaha also has a Inverter style like Honda EU,
give them a call.
You give no details on what you need in watt draw, and yes you need to
measure it, do your own complete energy audit, a Kill-A- Watt meter is
indespensible for this and only apx 25$. Figure in Surge load it will be
3-6 time run load depending on type of equipment to be powered.
Honda has a good worksheet for sizing
You give few details of what you realy need but 2 units, no , one
proper unit and a transfer swith would be better. you may be fine with a
3600rpm generac 5500 for apx 600$ and often Lowes throws in a 300$
complete transfer kit FREE. A Honda 500 watt EU may cost 2000-??. The
basic Generac is Loud, unregulated V. from 130-100V 58-62Hz, The EXL
line have a 4V-6v swing and are good for 2-3000 hrs for 1/4 the price
but they are Extremly Loud, Be sure to check DB ratings, Honda has a
good DB worksheet, remember 3 db = doubling of sound level. I have a
Generec 7500EXL, good but to big an Too Loud.
You need to give real details of what you will power. Power ratings
imprinted, and dates manufactured- apx.
I would consider a dual fuel or Tri Power conversion for a Honda-
Yamaha or Generac. That way you can have a permanent gas line outside
and just use a quick Snap connect on hose, or a propane tank
is a good place to call.
Anything with sensitive electronics can be ruined by an unregulated
gen, some refrigerators-furnces, washers, and all computers, Tvs,
stereos, microwaves-etc. You need to monitor and Know Output, always. A
separate transfer panel is a must with an amp meter, and a sepatare V
meter upatairs is a good idea, units often come uncalabrated, its your
job, your power.