Or can I use one. I've searched the web for a while and they all list using 2 of these great little machines and something like a GenTrans switch system. Thing is, I don't want to buy another generator, I like just the one!
And I only get blackouts very rarely, a few times a year at most. Just want to run a few lights, TV, sump pump, hot water exhaust, maybe a fridge. I only have 2000W to play with though.
Thanks for any tips!
Dean
I already have a generator, the EU2000i. So I'm not looking for generator recommendations. I am only looking to see what I can do with what I have already. I used to own a Generac 4000 XL, and it was a piece of crap - so frigging noisy it was unbearable, and nowhere on their web site do they ever mention dB. My EU2000i is quiet and I can't hear it if I put it in my garage and close the inside door.
So I can of course run a cable down to the sump pump, but if its simple enough I would like to run the fridge and TV and maybe a light, so a small switch might be a good idea.
Dean
The Honda EU series is the best unit made for what it does, but there are others , even a 5500 watt EU is available so 2 is not necessary. EU series are so quiet you can`t hear them from 10-30ft, are load dependant rpm and produce equal to grid sign wave=clean power for computers. Yes they cost 3-5 times that of other units. Load dependant rpm means at say
300 watts the motor may only turn 800 rpm vs 3600 , at that rpm the EU can last 12000 hrs where as 3600 rpm cheaper units can last as little as 300 hrs for a cheap unit to 3000 hrs.You give no details on what you need in watt draw, and yes you need to measure it, do your own complete energy audit, a Kill-A- Watt meter is indespensible for this and only apx 25$. Figure in Surge load it will be
3-6 time run load depending on type of equipment to be powered. Honda has a good worksheet for sizingYou give few details of what you realy need but 2 units, no , one proper unit and a transfer swith would be better. you may be fine with a
3600rpm generac 5500 for apx 600$ and often Lowes throws in a 300$ complete transfer kit FREE. A Honda 500 watt EU may cost 2000-??. The basic Generac is Loud, unregulated V. from 130-100V 58-62Hz, The EXL line have a 4V-6v swing and are good for 2-3000 hrs for 1/4 the price but they are Extremly Loud, Be sure to check DB ratings, Honda has a good DB worksheet, remember 3 db = doubling of sound level. I have a Generec 7500EXL, good but to big an Too Loud.You need to give real details of what you will power. Power ratings imprinted, and dates manufactured- apx.
I would consider a dual fuel or Tri Power conversion for a Honda- Yamaha or Generac. That way you can have a permanent gas line outside and just use a quick Snap connect on hose, or a propane tank
Anything with sensitive electronics can be ruined by an unregulated gen, some refrigerators-furnces, washers, and all computers, Tvs, stereos, microwaves-etc. You need to monitor and Know Output, always. A separate transfer panel is a must with an amp meter, and a sepatare V meter upatairs is a good idea, units often come uncalabrated, its your job, your power.
The main issue is to not overload a unit. If a Honda says 2000 check the real ratings, it may be 2000 rated with No surge capacity, meaning it may only run and start a 300 watt motor, or the motor won`t start or you will kill the gen. Honda uses run watts as ratings, and for longevity those are peak loads I would never maintain continuosly. Others like Generac rate load and surge, a 4000EXL Generac is rated
4000, with 6000? surge? , a fine unit with oil filter, electric start, and regulated power, althought not as clean as the EU inverter series, but it is Noisy!!.Bottom line you need excess capacity and surge capacity. Always oversize a bit, do your own audit, with a digital clamp on amp meter with peak hold function, and a Kill-A-Watt meter, undersize and your new gen will not start apliances, or blow out early.
I can start my sump pump on a 1000W inverter and car battery, so I am assuming I can start it from the 2000W generator, which has its own inverter.
The reason I can see that they use two is that (apart from more power) they get a parallel cable which has a large round generator cable socket, which can be used to plug into the transfer switch. If I am guessing right I can just build a regular cable with a 3-pin plug and use that.
I did not understand the question, but get a transfer panel, if one runs everything now you are probably fine. Testing what you run with an amp meter will let you know your loads, pumps and friges are all different in load needs depending on size , surge load and run load info you need.
For 50$ I had a different muffler put on my Generac 7500EXL, now it is not noisy, but I would rather have an inverter unit, as they are superior in all respects except initial price.
So why do they suggest two?
Generally you figure what you really want to back up and how much inconvenience you feel comfortable with and then get one unit that will handle the maximum you will need. Of course having two means you will have a back up to your back up, but it also means refueling two machines and maintaining two machines.
I believe they can be run with their electrical connection tied together. It may be configured so that you could do 220 service, instead od just 110? Check the Honda website,
The transfer panels I have seen prewired need 220v, isnt your eu 2000
120v. Call a dealer.
Do they say why you have to have two? I have used one to get through two week long power outages very comfortably. Sure, two would be nice if it weren't for the maintenance, cost, and gasoline usage.
I did pick up a 2200w Kawasaki, used but only 10 hours on it, as a backup. ($350, how could I resist? It is made on the same assembly line, with the same parts, as Hondas) I keep it with oil in the cylinder so there is no maintenance. It will take a while to start it up, but the refrigerator can last an hour or two.
A transfer switch is a real good idea. Makes it all easier and safer. And... we haven't lost power since I put one in a year ago!
I am a little surprised you can start a sump pump on EU2000, but if you can it than one seems adequate.
Simple, try it and see! You already have one 2000 watt generator. Hook up the loads you want to run an try it. I do believe you will fall shot trying to run too many motors though, sump pump and fridge for example.. You need a bit of reserve generally to start motors, 2-1/2 times of the motor load is a general size to shot for. Greg
Yeah the sump pump is 5.2 A (1/3 HP), and my 1000 W inverter starts that very easily, it doesn't even beep or strain.
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