On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 18:17:42 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
After the damage the cute little buggers did around here the last
couple of years I'd have dispatched him.
$1500 damage under the hood of my wife's car in one shot. And that's
just for starters.
The squirrels are even worse.
As Trader correctly states, the battery is charged whenever the main AC
power to the generatyor is present, not when the generator is running.
In fact, long periods of the generator running can result in a low /
dead battery the next time you need it to restart the generator.
Putting a new battery in after 4 years is, as someone else stated, a
NO-BRAINER. Running a standby generator with an old battery, oil sludge,
dirty filters, etc. just makes absolutely no sense at all to me........
Ralph Mowery wrote, on Wed, 17 Dec 2014 14:17:02 -0500:
I agree that, unless one or more cells are shorted, or if the battery
will no longer take any charge whatsoever, an open circuit no-load voltage
test with a DMM won't tell you much.
That is exactly why I brought it to them, to test under load for
at least 10 or 15 minutes.
It tested GOOD. They would have failed it if it tested bad, as they
printed a copy of the test report, so, it clearly was in the lower
range of good.
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 6:20:54 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
I'd say it tested bad. They told you based on the load test that
it was on the last 25% of it's life, which means it has reduced
capacity and they are *guessing* that's about how much life it has
left. You also know it's 4 years old. But it's your generator, house
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Wed, 17 Dec 2014 13:46:33 -0500:
Speaking of spark plugs, I finally got the boots off.
The originals, which were in great shape, are Champion
RC12YC, so I bought the correct spark plugs after all
(assuming the old plugs are the correct size).
It wasn't the rubber that was holding it on, but it was
the rubber which was acting like a spring when I was
pulling very hard and then letting go. Unfortunately the
spark plug removal tool was useless because it wasn't
bent right and the ends are far too thick to be useful:
I think it was only the metal clip that was holding on to
the spark plug like you can't believe. It was as clean as
new inside, so, there was no corrosion visible anywhere.
So that it's easier, next time, to remove them. I spurted
a dollop of electrical dialectric grease into the boot,
I also lightly covered the spark plug threads with gray
anti-seize, and carefully replaced the spark plug, knowing
that anti-seize is often not recommended and understanding
why (having read the cautionary reports of mis-torque & misfire).
I then disconnected the generator's breakers to the house,
and switched the generator to "Manual", and it started up
smoothly and quite nicely, purring like a kitten. Much
better than before.
That felt good!
Now all I have left to do is fix the damaged wires.
I noted the picture of the spark plugs, old and
new. If the old ones were the correct, then the
new ones are a great match. Some times when they
won't release, twisting the spark plug boot will
help break them free. I think the "never sieze"
on the threads is excellent idea. I always grease
or neversieze mine on lawn mowers, etc.
Runs better is encouraging. I'm pleased for you.
And maybe your grand son will learn that Gramps
does fix things, and he can enjoy his 5 AM video.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
Danny D. wrote, on Wed, 17 Dec 2014 18:02:44 +0000:
BTW, the plugs were surprisingly in great shape.
What matters to a plug, first and foremost, is a sharp edge,
which concentrates lines of force. The central electrode
was still (almost) as sharp as new.
What matters next is the gap, which was still around 30
thousandths of an inch.
The central insulator was carbon'd up, which is to be
expected, and not at all greasy or damaged.
Overall, there was no reason to replace the plugs, but,
I replaced them anyway since I already had them in hand.
trader_4 wrote, on Thu, 18 Dec 2014 04:29:58 -0800:
I have a schematic but I didn't read it as I'm pretty sure, just
by talking to Generac, that it's charged by the generator only.
But, I could be wrong - but I'm not that interested as the system
is working just fine and all I need to do is fix the one frayed
wire and I'm done.
BTW, I mistakenly said "inverter" in the previous post, when I
had meant "power supply" (since it's AC to DC, and not DC to AC).
trader_4 wrote, on Thu, 18 Dec 2014 04:33:22 -0800:
If it were a critical application, I'd worry more. I can live without
power when it goes out (like very many people do). If I "really" want
to start the generator, I can "jump it" from my car.
So, it's not a mission critical situation if the battery doesn't
start the generator the next time the power goes out.
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Thu, 18 Dec 2014 08:30:05 -0500:
Rest assured I twisted and twisted. You can't get even
180 degrees though, due to the very short high-tension
wire, so, it's a situation where you're limited.
Given that the metal-to-metal connection is circular,
and that both metals are nearly pristine showing no
signs of corrosion whatsoever, I think it was just
stuck on tightly, metal to metal.
There are two schools of thought on the never seize.
One school of thought is that it prevents corrosion (by
being the sacrificial anode), while the other school of
thought is that careless people will overtorque and even
more careless people will end up shorting out the electrode
due to the excess of never seize squeezing into the cylinder
Knowing all that, I'm careful when I use it.
trader_4 wrote, on Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:01:42 -0800:
I was thinking about that.
The oil I changed, what little was left, was like mud.
I put in Mobile 1, but it's only a quart and a half, so, it's not
a bad idea to run another change in an hour or two of service.
Once a year is all that it should require unless is runs a lot in
providing backup power. Stay with the Mobil 1 and it should look darker
a year later but not any more viscous. I have found it this way 8 years
in a row.
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