Gas Pipe Install

Oct 28, 2006 26 Replies

I'm installing a tankless water heater at the opposite side of my house from the natural gas meter. I have a dedicated pipe-run going directly from the meter to the appliance. My primary problem is getting the approximately 65 feet of new black pipe to COMPLETELY hold the test pressure. All the inspector cares about is 15 psi for 10 minutes, but this is my family's house! More details are below.



Sun at 4pm - 15 psi Wed at 4pm - 15 psi Thurs at 9pm - 13 psi Fri at 9pm - 12 psi



I'm guessing the delay in the leak was caused by the extra time needed to force the pipe dope out of the threaded connection. Once the seal finally broke, I'm guessing the leak rate will be more constant until that point when the operating pressure gets down to the 1-2 psi range. Then the leak rate would slow.



Bottom line, I suspect I have not totally tightened a jont well enough and that is the source of leak. I started this job by using Harvey's Pipe Thread Compound, then I started using Rectorseal on the last couple joints. I'm beginning to wonder if I should have used Harvey's TFE past since that stuff does not appear to be nearly as runny as the other two products.



Anyway, I'm interested in hearing about similar installation experiences, and I'm always open to suggestions regarding installation, pipe dope, pressure testing, etc. Thanks



All I can suggest is to put as much pressure in the line as you can get, then check every connection with soap bubbles, Larry

Use Teflon tape in place of pipe dope, it doesn't fail like dope and helps you to be able to tighten that joint just a little tighter. Clean all the dope off, ues a wire brush if needed, When looking at the end of the pipe wrap the tape clockwise around the threads 4 times, then hold it in place with your thumb and pull to break. Hope this helps. Ron

I have had the reverse of your experience.

For my money, Teflon tape isn't nearly as reliable as high quality (teflon filled) pipe dope.

Our dishwasher was installed by a "professional" who used Teflon tape on a

1/4" brass elbow. About a year later I noticed the floor was "swelling." Check and found that the Teflon join was leaking. I did the connection over using pipe dope and no problems.

When I had to replace the "Air level control valve" on my water tank I first tried Teflon tape. (This was a 1 1/4" thread.) The tape just would NOT seal. Used teflon filled dope and no problem.

I know the problem I had when I first started working with threaded metal pipe was; it is hard to get it through your head just how tight those things really have to be. I'd give a pipe joint a good snug, (if it was a suspension bolt, I'd have been confident that it would hold for the life of the car), I'd go back and tighten it, it would still leak, then I got a 3' long pipe wrench, no more leaks.

ahh why are you installing a tankless? they rarely save any money, that is the initial cost is so high and the cost of repairs over its lifetime so great these costs wipe out any savings till your past year

15 or more, when you will likely need a new unit.

the endless hot water if done right is nice, but the trouble is some will use it as a excuse to take endless showers raising your enerfy bill:(

perhaps someone will post that review of tankless, its not flattering. from people who have lived with them.

incidently the energy lost by a regular tank in the winter goes to indirectly help heat your home.

so if you heat your home in the winter cut your tankless savings by 1/2 or thereabouts.

I would disassemble everything and use teflon tape with a little dope. fewest leaks this way, minimize number of joints.

use 20 foot lenths of pipe or longer wherever possible rather than 4 5 foot lengths joined together.!!

changes in temperature will affect the pressure of the air in the pipe...........

I assume when the pipe dope fails like I've described, sounds like the best option is to disassemble, redope and/or tape, and assemble again. I'm guessing, but i bet simply trying to tighten the joint (and skipping the disassemble/redope part) won't be as effective.

I think you will find the more you disturb things the more they leak, starting over is better, but hey why not try, its your back as a friend says.....

You're probably right. I can't wait until this thing seals for good!

By the way, if you were doing a similar install on your house, how would you do the pressure test and when would you be satisfied that the system was completely sealed. The truth may not come out at 15 psi for

10 minutes!

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

"swelling."

The pro's I watched do it used pipe dope, and REALLY tightened the joints hard. They were working at it.

Bob

no excessive test pressure really needed, remember the gas pressure is at best a few ounces....

Your real concern and a common cause of people saying Tankless dont work is pipe sizing. You need to test gas flow with a manometer with other gas apliances on to insure your tankless outputs its maximum btu, or in winter when its real cold your showers might be cold.

pipe dope is a lubricant and not a sealant...the seal is from metal to metal contact of the thread surfaces...the pipe dope merely lubricates the joint so it can be tightened without having to fight the friction of the steel against steel.

use different teflon tape, one time i had some that must of been bad and refused to seal water joints. it was brand new.

rummaged around found a old roll that worked fine..........

friend who is a master plumber said use tape AND dope for best seal and that is what he always does

65 feet for natural gas at 150k btu sounds like about 11/4" pipe, maybe 1" depending on number of fittings. Just a guess as I'm used to working with propane.

The reason for 25 psi is he stated it goes down slow. I was trying to create a fast leak for finding with bubbles.

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