Under my trailer, some 1/2 inch soft copper sprang a leak. It's not in a
great place for working. I called the trailer park, and they sent thier man
out to shut off the water. I cut out about a foot of tubing, using a tubing
cutter. I sanded the ends of the tubing, using some sand screen. I used two
compression unions to put the new tubing in. Well, hours later one end of
one fitting is dripping, about one drop a second.
I tried tightening the fitting down a little harder, and it's still
dripping. Any good old country wisdom for stopping a compression fitting
easy, just go to the hardware store, buy a small bottle
of pipe thread dope....use it on the threads of the
compression fiting.....it is not for sealing, but rather for
lubrication of the threads....you will be able to tighten
the nut a full turn or more with the lube....it is amazing
how dry brass threads bind up...
Actually, that's my next step. I've got some more tubing. It's just in a
challenging spot, and there's fiberglass hanging from above that gets on me.
Old copper, I find stick braze works better than solder. For whatever
reason, solder is less likely to seal old copper.
Christopher A. Young
"Big_Jake" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
So far none of you have it right use no dope and don't over tighten as
this will only cause it to leak worse. And never use a ring that has
been used once then retighten it again. I have a suggestion look to
see if your tube is true round as if it isn't you will get leak, if it
is solder it which is the right way compression is for weekend
plumbers who are to lazy to learn how to solder. 35 yrs plumbing has
taught me that do it once or do it forever.
I don't sand. You may need to get a new fitting and slide a new ball over the
end of the tube. Before I did that, I'd try taking the fitting loose again and
then wrapping the threads with teflon tape, then retightening. I always used
teflon tape for compression fittings... both stainless and copper... back in the
day when I was maintaining a scuba fill station. If it didn't leak with
2500-5000 psi of air behind it, it won't leak with 50 psi of water either.
That's a good thought. I'll try teflon on the threads, and then crank it
down. Or, maybe I'll cut that all out, and silver braze in some new tubing.
The silver braze is more work, but more likely to last.
Christopher A. Young
"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" <mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com> wrote in message
I've had success twisting teflon pipe thread tape into a "string" and
putting about two turns of it around the pipe adjacent each end of the ball.
Easy to see why that works once you think about it.
Is the ferrule slid onto the tube fully?
CY: Yes, it should be. I pushed the tube good and hard into the end of the
Is it compressed
CY: I don't know. Since I don't have X-ray vision, I'm not sure how to tell.
Take it apart and see if it crimped equally.
A compression fitting on such a low pressure system should seal
without any problems. It should never need any tape of sealant.
If your install is leaking then the tubing is scarred or cracked,
the fitting is defective, or most likely you introduced grit into the
ferrule which prevents it from sealing.
On Mon, 22 Oct 2007 22:33:53 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
I always coat the compression ferrule and the fitting threads with
rectorseal (sp?) pipe dope before assembling and tightening. This
lubricates and seals at the same time. I've never had one leak since
I started doing this.
Ferrule... that's the word I couldn't think of when I posted my last response.
If he has any doubts at all about the integrity of the tubing ends, he needs to
recut them, slide the nut on each end, then the ferrule until a little bit of
tubing pokes out... maybe a 1/8" or so. Then with teflon tape on the male
threads of the fitting, put it together and torque it down using two wrenches in
opposition. The ferrule will slide within the compression nut to wherever it
needs to be as it's tightened down and will deform within the fitting to seal
itself as well.
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