Fuses in box get hot when using Kenmore Electric Dryer (only on heat cycle)

[mkirsch1]

You've pretty much determined that the problem is in the fuse box. Just replace it with a breaker and be done with it.

[dpb]

On Jan 20, 11:24=A0am, "Jim2009" wrote: ...

That simply indicates fuse #1 is the hot side for the motor. Either way the heating elements won't as they run on the 240V, from one hot to the other.

...

The load even if faulty won't damage the breakers -- if it draws excess current (like a short) they'll simply open as intended; if it doesn't, they won't.

The current heating issue in the fuse box is a problem w/ the fuse box itself. If it were mine I'd remove it completely and see if it appeared to be able to be refurbished adequately or damaged/aged to the point of needing replacing rather than repairing. In place mounted on the wall still it's unlikely can inspect it closely enough to really tell or do any good particularly if the problem is as noted earlier from moisture corrosion or similar.

[N8N]

Since the 30A fuses are *not* blowing, I suspect that the heat is a problem within the fuse panel itself (high resistance connection) checking the current draw of the dryer should confirm this.

nate

[bud--]

The same can be said for fuses. If carrying their max load they will get hot. With a little more load they will get hot enough inside to melt metal. As I think someone said, fuses deterioration will not allow more than the rated current. The heating could be "normal".

The dryer nameplate should have a current rating. (Max load for fuses and circuit breakers is 80% = 24A for a continuous load - over 3 hours.)

Could also be a problem with resistance in a connection. If it adds a lot of heat to the fuses and the fuses are loaded near their rating they will blow "early".

[clare]

Call me a "luddite" but I'll trust a fuse over a breaker for "durability" A fuse has NO moving parts - no pressure contacts or wiping contacts. Every time a fuse blows it is replaced with a new one. Every time a breaker is tripped under load, whether intentionally or due to a fault (overload or short) the breaker deteriorates. Just be sure a fuse is always properly installed, and a bit of dialectric compound on the threads and tip never hurts - prevents corrosion. Breakers are more convenient - but not necessarily better (unless you have Mag-trip breakers, which are MUCH more accurate than fuses.

[HeyBub]

Luddite.

[Jim2009]

Yeah I was expecting the 15 to blow too, I ran the unit for about 10 mins. I got a tester today and that line tests around 21 amps. It was a TimeDelay fuse, but I don't think it should delay that long. :-)

Cheers, Jim

[Jim2009]

Yeah, it's was a 15 AMP Time Delay fuse and I ran the unit for maybe 10 mins. I bought a Clamp On Amp tester today and that line tests just about

21 amps.

Cheers, Jim

[Jim2009]

OK, name plate reads "Motor 4 Amps - Heater and Accessories 23 Amps".

Thanks, Jim

[Jim2009]

Well, I got a new Clamp Amp Meter, at Home Depot $50. Harbor Freight was out of the cheap ones even after I called to confirm their stock.

I tightened the screws (the screw under the head of each fuse) in the fuse holders and installed two new 30A fuses. I believe these screws came loose from the hot and cold cycles. It's a ground level room that's not heated. I did two loads tonight and they never got hot, just a very slight temp increase.

The name plate reads "Motor 4 Amps - Heater and Accessories 23 Amps".

I tested both lines, before and after the fuse, and at the dryer outlet and found no difference per side.

-Cold start Dryer running on AIR cycle, the Motor side tested at = 21.73A, the Other side (I call it the heater side) tested at = 3.71A.

-Dryer warm running on low/med/or high heat. Motor side = 21.5 +-.3, the Other side was slightly higher = 23.6 +-.3. I took several readings over a

40-50 min period, all about the same per side.

So I think the Dryer is safe.. Right? But I still wonder why one prong in the outlet was fried. Maybe the wire was loose? I didn't pay attention when I replaced the outlet. Maybe I damaged it when cleaning the exhaust vent (about twice a year), I have to unplug the dryer to move it.

I will pickup a breaker box and replace the fuse box. I had two in my hand today at HD, it holds just two breakers, just what I need. They only had two of these in stock and after opening both boxes they both had parts missing. I could have completed one box by using parts from the other, but instead I took them both up to CS. I'm only about 15 mins from another HD.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this post, I appreciate it

Cheers, Jim

[Jeff Wisnia]

I'd expect that rather than using two breakers it'd be safer to use a "double pole" 30 amp breaker, like this one:

Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.

Jeff

[HeyBub]

No, you're correct. Either the breaker shown or a pair of "ganged" breakers.

[Jim2009]

Good point...... I seen those, but I was leaning towards buying two singles since it was a few bucks cheaper. I didn't think about the benefits of the common trip. Doh!

Thanks, Jim

[clare]

BY LAW that is the only kind of breaker he can use - it must be impossible to shut down or trip one side without shutting down or tripping the other side. (so either DP breaker, or mechanically tied trip levers)

[bud--]

If the load on the 15A fuse was 21A (from measurements below) the fuse should blow. Time depends on type of fuse. For a 15A SquareD breaker the trip time would be 25-125 seconds. If you actually had 21A through a 15A fuse the holder could be shorted from the center contact to the screw shell. Unscrewing the fuse should kill the heat or the whole dryer (depending on which).

If they stay cool you might have fixed it (or as noted above).

Don't know as how those make sense. If the heater ran on 120V it would draw a lot less than 21A. Presumably the heater is not running on "air cycle". If the meter sets the range automatically you may be reading the decimal point wrong, like 21 mA. 3.71A is reasonable for the motor.

Heater appears on both fuses and is 21.5A approx. compared to the nameplate of 23A

Motor appears on only one wire (should be "other side")and is 23.6 -

21.5 = 2.1A approx. compared to the nameplate of 4A. Should increase with more load in the dryer, or wet load.

[bud--]

I agree. A 20A fuse after 20 years should have the same characteristics as when new. A 20A breaker could freeze mechanically. Would be interesting to look at the trip points of old breakers. I think someone was going to run tests on old houses.

In applications with high available fault currents, fuses with high fault current ratings are readily and cheaply available.

Hard to argue with the convenience.

[HeyBub]

Bummer. But they'll be back in stock eventually. When the are, get the $10 model and compare readings with the $50 unit.

You can then make a determination as to which represents the best value and return the other.

[clare]

Mechanical freezing is extremely rare, while false tripping due to resistance heating of the contacts is quite common - more common on some makes than others.

[Jim2009]

This is probably old news around here, but I though it's related to this post.

134 Field reports of Federal Pacific Electric FPE Stab-lok electrical equipment failures, 2003-2005 at Here is a few no-trips with photos Cheers, Jim

[Jim2009]

Their computer shows they have 3 in stock but no one could find them. Not sure how their stock system works, but they may not get more in until the inventory is low enough. I think I will call and talk with a manager.

They had another tester for $20 but I was not sure if it would work. It read something like "AC voltage range: 200-750; AC amps: 20-200-1000A". I wanted to see "0-200-750" and "0-20-200-1000A". Thinking back I guess I should have looked at the dial longer at that would have told me more. I guess I was just too pissed that they could not find the one I wanted. Is it a given that all digital meters will start reading from 0?

This might be the one I saw:

Cheers, Jim