On Jan 9, 5:07 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I don't need to draw out the circuit. The chime is a
2 wire device. A 2 wired cable is frequently used to
connect to it. That wire runs some length through
the house, often to the transformer, where one
wire connects to the transformer, the other to one
wire going to the door bell button. The doorbell
button is another 2 wire device. It frequently is
wired with a 2 wire cable back to the transformer
where one wire gets connected to the other side
of the transformer, completing the circuit.
Doesn't get any simpler than that.
Now let's say the chime is OK. The 2 wire cable
connected to it as described above is however
shorted somewhere along it's run between the
transformer and the chime. You touch
the doorbell wires together and you get sparks.
That's why I suggested that he listen for a hum
at the chime or test for power at
the chime with the doorbell wires connected. It
quickly rules out the possibility of a short.
On Sun, 8 Jan 2012 05:40:04 -0800 (PST), " email@example.com"
If there is a spark at the button there WILL be power at the chime.
It's a simple series circuit. If there is CURRENT FLOW the circuit HAS
to be complete. If there is a spark, there is current flow. Simple
basic electrical theory. Measuring the AC voltage across the wires at
the button will tell him what the voltage of the system is. If it is
12 volts or more, the chime should ring. If it is less, the
transformer is highly suspect - I don't know of a doorbell transformer
rated at less than 12 volts - 16 is the most common - 18 and 24 are
also out there.
Fix or replace the chime.
If you are scared to put it in the dishwasher, put it in the trash-can
and buy a new one.
Micky, I took off the button and tried it on another home and it
worked fine so I put it back on this home knowing it wasn't the
Let me ask.... if I touched the two wires together and saw spark (did
this like 3 times with same result) as well as the door bell button
was lit too, does this mean that since the transfomer has power, that
the transformer is good? I mean when you test the transformer is it
to just see if it has power?
That's a very good indication that the transformer
is fine. You need to start looking at the chime.
As someone suggested, listen for a hum with
the door button wires connected. But there
are all kinds of chimes. That would work with
an old solenoid one, but not with an electronic
one, where there would be no hum. Or use
a simple VOM meter that you can get at
radio shack for $10 to see if you have power
at the chime with the wires connected.
On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:58:44 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Aside for the dishwasher approach, can you recommend a spray solvent
to do this? I read not to use spray oil as that in time will collect
dirt. I was thinking of even trying compressed air but just a guess
on my part.
On Mon, 9 Jan 2012 06:13:34 -0800 (PST), " email@example.com"
Compressed air will not remove greasy buildup. It might remove greasy
fuzz - but the grease will still be there.
If it is a horizontal acting 2-tone chime, the plunger will be
suspended between 2 springs, and it is REAL EASY to tell if it is
If it is a vertical acting chime, the plunger will be suspended ona
single spring - and it is also VERY EASY to tell if it is sticking..
I have BOTH in my house - 1 up, and 1 down.
I'm still very partial to the dish washer. ASAS U ME ing it is NOT an
You could go out and buy a can of "brake clean" or "brake kleen" and
try that. You want it off the wall first - and on a layer of
Brake Kleen is generally safe on MOST plastics - but I would not
guarantee it. You do not need to rinse - it evaporates leaving no
I suspect you have an oily build-up causing your problem.
Or you could use something like "spray 9" or "fantastic" - but you
will need to rinse them both well with hot water when you are finished
- so might just as well use the dishwasher.
On Mon, 9 Jan 2012 09:51:05 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
The clearance between the coil frame and the plunger is large enough
that just plain AIR is the best lubricant you can get. There's a good
1/32 inch of cleance in any I've ever seen - Get the greasy
fuzzy-wuzzies out and leave it totally clean and dry.
Check what battery the system takes. I've seen wireless doorbells which take
a small 12 volt cell for the transmitter, might be expensive and hard to
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
Wired but I'm thinking of a wireless system as I think it might be
cheaper to fix????
I mivght ask that question myself, so (I'm not criticiizing him, but
it doesn't really matter. It used to work and now it doesn't, and
the problem, whatever it is, is not related to the voltage.
(You didn't add another bell did you? If you add another bell, it
might be necessary to go to a higher voltage.)
Except for the electricity that goes to it!
Do you have even a cheap voltmeter? A friend to hep you?
This is why someone said I was recommending a higher voltage! Not my
post his replied to.
I forgot that I said this.
Yes, my bad, here. I'm pretty sure when I went to a bigger
transformer, it was also a higher voltage, so that made me write
something stupid. But the higher voltage would't be rquired, only
higher current capacity.
*If you got a spark, the transformer is working. I've had some customers
who have had problems with their chimes. In two instances the problem was
as a result of the cover not being seated properly and was interfering with
the mechanism. In others it was just a bad chime. Buy a new chime and try
And as a temporary measure, try connecting the wires to the unused rear
door solenoid. When you take the chime cover off, you should find where
your 2 wires are connected. At that location you should see a 3rd
terminal. Since you have no rear doorbell button, this terminal won't
have a wire connected. Of the two terminals where the wires are
currently connected, one should be marked "T" or "Trans", leave that one
connected. Remove the other one and relocate it to the unused terminal.
Test the button and see if you now get a "ding"
On Sun, 8 Jan 2012 07:48:59 -0500, "John Grabowski"
Thanks John. When I test the transformer, is it only to see if it has
power? And the simple test is to just touch the two wires together to
see spark (as I did and saw spark)?
Suppose I didn't touch the two wires together but the door bell button
was lit, would this also tell me the transformer is fine? In this
case, the button stayed lit tho no sound and I tested the button on
another home and it worked.
Maybe the chime is stuck but to maybe speed things up, I may just go
ahead and replace the box.
If your lighted button is lit, or you touch the wires together and get a
spark, you've got transformer. No need to pursue that direction. John is
probably 99.9 % correct, that the problem is with the front door,
(ding-dong) solenoid, which is why I suggest connecting the "rear" door
solenoid, as a test.
Except we KNOW the front door solenoid is not open circuit - or there
would be NO SPARK, and the button would not light. PERHAPS the rear
plunger MIGHT not be sticky if the front door one is - but it is
unlikely - as whatever stuck up the front door plunger was also
present at the rear door plunger, which has not moved sinse the unit
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