I've got a house that the door chime stopped working (making a chime
noise). I know it's not the outside button and the two wires outside
that connect to the button (that go thru the outside brick wall) when
touching each other showed some spark. One repair guy asked me if
it's a 16v or 24v transformer and I don't know. He seemed to say it's
not a part of the chime box inside. I thought everything was self
contained inside the chime box that mounts on the wall. Is this a
DIY job??? Any good URL to watch on this repair?
Sorry to keep tagging on to my own message but how good do the
wireless door bells work? I mean the door bell would be about 3 feet
from the front (wood) door and if I go with the same location as the
wired chime box, it's about 15 feet inside door. I could probably
mount the wireless chime box much closer but the original location is
more central in the home.
One other critical piece of information is needed. Is there a door bell
button for more than the front door? Does the same chime box also
announce the back or other door button is pressed? If so, does that work?
Personally, if you already have a wired system you would be much
farther ahead replacing whatever is bad and using it. The wireless
pushbutton has a battery in it that is prone to failure - andif your
neighbor buys one his can ring yours and vise versa.
I find them a pain, but if you didn't have wires already in place, it
IS easier than wiring from scratch.
A friend also uses one, with the chime unmounted, when he's out in
the fenced back yard/pool area so he can hear if someone comes to the
On Sat, 07 Jan 2012 20:43:01 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Absolutely. I only used wireless once, when my mother's apartment
had no doorbell at all, and cement walls, that the landlord wouldn't
have wanted me drilling holes in.
Plus you need to replace batteries. Plus the button is fat and
surface mounted and and looks terrible.
OP, this is unrelated to your problem. Don't try this at home:
I had a bell in my first floor hall, and put an added bell in my
basement (which required a bigger transformer because they rang at the
smae time) and when I got a computer, I spent a lot of time on the
second flloor. Didn't want to bother running wires, so I bought
wireless, soldered close the wireless push button, removed the
battery, and replace it with a connection to the transformer, that had
power when the front door button was pressed. Had to add a diode to
get DC currrent to the wireless button. Plugged the bell into a 2nd
floor hall outlet and now the doorbell rings on all 3 floors.
I added a second chime in the basement at my place, and no problems
at all. It's not the voltage of the transformer that is critical when
adding a second chime, but the current capacity ( the va rating)
On Sat, 07 Jan 2012 23:50:07 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
You're right, I said bigger, and I don't know if I meant amperage or
amperage and voltage. It might have been that when I looked for a
higher current transformer, I only found one with a higher voltage.
MY first basement doorbell wasn't a chime but one with a vibrating
clapper against a round bell. The smaller of the two common sizes,
but still, maybe it takes more current than a chime.
I was lucky. When rectified it was very close to 9 volts, which is
what the battery in the button was supposed to be.
The whole doorbell was 4 dollars 20 years ago, and it worked for my
mother for 5 or 10 years and for me for 10, until the noisemaker part
that plugs in "burned up". Fortunately, I had bought two sets.
Just guessing, 'cause it depends on what king of chime.
If the switch sparks, you've got volts and current, which suggests
it's a solenoid that forces a mass into a mechanical chime.
It's possible that corrosion has increased a contact resistance
so much that it can't move the mass.
First thing I'd check is to see if some spider hasn't
gummed up the solenoid so the core can't move and bang the gong.
In my case, the transformer is inside a coat closet above the door
about half way between the button and the chime box.
Never thought about it in that context, but a transformer-operated
doorbell is yet another vampire device that wastes power continuously
when it's used...well...approximately never.
Mine is in the basement, in the ceiling on the floor joist, half-way
between the sump pump and the furnace, and pretty far from the breaker
box. Not sure why, but it's a townhouse and they probably had a
That's true, but batteries sit there going dead, leaking, making one
buy a whole new doorbell periodically because you can't buy the button
by itself. (Do alkaine batteries leak?)
You may need to view this with fixed or proportional widthe font. The
tranfromerus usually has a metal band
that looks like _| |_ 3/4's of a rectangle, with
mounting legs, and coming out from each side is a rounded brown bulge.
One side has a stiff brown piece with two metal connectors, with a
wire attached to each one.
MOST look that way, but I've seen some pretty strange ones over the
And I've even seen doorbells hooked to the FURNACE CONTROL transformer
(the one that operates the thermostat).
I've also seen a few older wired systems running off a lantern battery
(12 volt) - a carry-over from the old 1.5 or 3 volt battery operated
door buzzers of years gone by. ( using those big "ignition cells" (
the EN6 - now discontinued by Ever-ready))
My transformer is mounted at the service panel - as is virtually
every one in my entire neighbourhood, and at least half the city.
Cooking grease, cigaret smoke residue, and just plain gunge will
eventually "stick up" the hammers in the average doorbell chime. I'd
recommend you disconnect it, take it down, and throw it in the
dishwasher - then see how it works. Replacement chimes are cheap too.
Thanks Mike... you're right except I didn't take the dishwasher
serious tho for the first moment it made me stop to think about it.
Tho I don't know where the transformer is in this home right now, I
think if I saw it, I would now recognize it. And apparently reading
other posts, tells me it's not the problem. I know the button isn't
the problem from testing it on another house so the only answer left
is that the problem is within the chime box. Appreciate your help.
Well, we KNOW the problem is not due to a mouse chewing the wire, or
a nail, because of the simple tests and observations that have already
been reported, and the fact that at least a couple of us actually
understand how the circuit works.. Your reports (first hand) of your
- I hate to use the word, but there is no other that fits - STUPIDITY
shows YOU do NOT understand the circuit or the problem.
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