On 8/19/2013 8:30 AM, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote: ...
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Never saw such; how'd that work? All we had until this new well ("new" as in drilled in the early-mid '60s) was just a "plain 'ol tank".
While you've got the tank drained and open, pressurize a little over final setpoint and let sit for a little while and see if forces any additional water out.
Also, while empty, check for whether there is still water in the tank--do you know for certain whether it is a bladder or diaphragm style tank?
It's basically a widget that goes onto a fitting opening on the side of the tank, about half up, ie at where the air level should be. It has a float or similar inside it that reacts to the water level. If the water level gets above the level of the tank fitting, it triggers a valve in the widget to open which is connected to the suction side of the pump. That allows a small amount of air to get sucked in. Each time the pump runs, that process works, until the air level is back to the level of the widget.
if the link doesn't work, just google "water tank air control"
The other tanks were leaking externally. Well water around here can be tough on systems. We usually get about 7 years out of an electric hot water heater and sometimes get pinhole leaks in pipes although I have not seen one in several years. Well is working fine and not rapidly recycling. If it did, I would check pressure as I imagine bladder like a car tire would slowly lose air pressure.
On 8/19/2013 12:48 PM, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote: ...
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Hmmmmn....concept ok, execution here would be _really, really_ tough as it's 2-300 ft from well house where the pressure tank is and the well...
Yes, I guess I should have mentioned they only work on jet pumps where you have the suction side of the pump near the tank. Which is probably why you don't see them much these days. Years ago, many wells were shallow. With a submersible they can't be used.
On 8/19/2013 5:14 PM, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote: ...
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That's more a function of local water tables than "these or those" days. The water table here is 200-ft or so...
Yes, depth is a factor, but here in NJ you used to be able to have a well at any depth. The old systems I saw from decades ago that had conventional tanks and jet pumps were wells that were 50 ft or less. Today you can't have a well less than 50 ft. A jet pump can still be used down to 100ft or so, but submersibles are more efficient. I haven't seen a residential potable water well put in around here in a long time, so don't know what they are using for those. But I've seen several irrigation wells at 50 ft or less and they all use submersibles.
The submersibles as well as bladder tanks took a _lot_ of routine maintenance out of the system. Not much needs doing on a modern well anymore until something goes wrong.
Harry K
I took one apart recently that was similar to your description. In that one the widget had a diaphragm. One side of the diaphragm connected to the jet venturi, which was attached to the associated pump (shallow well). The other side the diaphragm was an air pump with check valves for air to the tank and for air into the pump. Not obvious why there is a pressure difference between the pump and tank when it cycles which is required to operate the air pump.
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That's pretty unusual geology; there's never been any water table here except the Ogallala that's roughly 200 ft or deeper.
Farther east where there's surface-fed aquifers they may have some shallower wells.
Here in central NJ, there is one at around 50 ft. Next one is around 100, then 180 or so. It's really funny too. Here's what happens. Folks from the city move here and want a green lawn. So, they call up a well driller. Virtually every one of them winds up with a well at 100ft. The only thing is, it's full of iron. So, within year, the sidewalks, patios, pool decks, side of the house, front steps, etc are all orange from rust. It's one of the craziest things going on. There is more water at 100 ft, than at 50. But usually there is plenty of water, eg 15 gpm, at 50 ft and no iron. Yet, for some reason, these guys just go for the 100ft.
A friend of mine had one put in a couple years ago. His at
50 ft is one of the few in the neighborhood that doesn't have the rust problem, because I told him what to do. Makes no sense, because these folks would pay the same amount or more for a well without the rust problem. I'm guessing the issue might be that the well drillers prefer to put in a well that they know will have plenty of water, even if it's bad, rather than run the risk that after they put a 50ft one in, the people bitch because it won't deliver enough water.
Here in Eastern Washington (the Palouse) we have a very good shallow aquife r but odd geology - basically hundreds of feet of Loess soil blown in after the ice ages. I live in the bottom of a shallow valley containing my hous e, a highway, a year round ditch (usually, does dry up some years, headwate r about a mile up valley). On my side of the highway I drilled a well: 24 gpm at 60ft, community well and house 1/4 mile downstream from me that used to support 4 families, shallow well with a shallow well pump (not a jet), plenty of water.
1/2 mile up from me neighbor drilled a new well that ran over the top of th e casing when they hit the aquifer. He said it ran for four days before he capped it.Then on the opposite of the highway directly across from me is one house. It was on a windmill pump and cistern. Replaced with electric pump/tank - not enough flow. Drilled new well and got a 4gpm total accumulation after going through 3 seams (I was spectating while they were drilling) I don't r ecall the depth but they used every piece of drill pipe on the rig. Up fro m him a mile was on a sping with low flow, drilled well, same story: barely enough for flow to support the house barn.
My well (24gpm/60 ft) and neighbor across the stream (4gpm over 90ft) are s eparated by no more than 200 ft.
Harry K
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