For stuff like this smurf tube is better (type ENT, the blue stuff at
HD) . It is a little stiffer than greenfield so you can push and aim
it easier and it is smoother inside.
You also cut it with a knife and you don't have those jagged ends.
ality of the drywall repair is not critical and you needn't be too fussy
t easier to pull/replace wires in the future ?
up the entire wall I suggest that you use flexible metal conduit (AKA Gree
nfield). It can be fished through the wall and your run doesn't need to be
perfectly straight. Put connectors on each end with bushings to protect t
he wire from sharp edges. You can install a pull string for future wire pu
lls through it.
*I didn't know that they made it in inch and a quarter.
On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 2:05:53 AM UTC-6, micky wrote:
Went to HomeDepot, they didn't even know what the blue stuff was. went to Menards, they had 3/4" and 1" in 10' whips or 100' roles. All I need is 30', the sales guy tried to convince me to just buy 10' pieces and use couplers.
My better sense tell me that I don't what a break in the wall.
Any place else that I can buy this stuff ?
On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 05:40:21 -0800 (PST), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I remember. It was because the shaft of the bit bent. When it's in a
wall it can only bend so far, but it's not that way in the stack/chase.
Are you going down the walls or down the space in the stack? It's been
days and I've lost track.
I don't know what blue stuff is either.
What does, plastic water pipe? Pex comes in rolls but I doubt you
can't use that to extend a dril. It's more flexible than the flexible
Clare was talking about, well, I'm not sure what screws together other
than threaded metal pipe, but he was talking about something that
doesn't bend much, not PEX.
On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 16:25:21 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Okay, I guessed right. That has weight enough to make sure the drill
bites, when you're drilling down. Not up, but I was drlling down.
How did you attach the drill bit to the pipe?
I'm sure this would make drilling another hole in second-floor-floor a
lot easier. Right now I have the coax for the Intenet running down the
stairway. Maybe that's what I wanted to hide.
I bought a drill extention and cut it in half. One end welded to one
pipe reducer nipple, the other end on another pipe reducer nipple.
Then thread pipe between the 2 nipples. I needed it to drill 12 feet
horizontally through 2X12 floor joists supporting a raised theatre
floor (resting on concrete floor). Worked just fine.
On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 23:06:42 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Wow, thanks. Quite a project for me. I'm not very good at welding, but
I could try. The last time was 30 years ago with Solid-Ox. I still
have some of that, if it's still good, and I have a tip that burns
oxygent and Mapp gas, probably not hot enough?
I've been looking for an excuse to buy a small acetylene set up, but I
have no room for it anyhow. I must make room.
OTOH, today I was turning off and drianing the garden faucet, and I came
across just the piece of masonite I need to reinforce my attic wall.
It's one layer of T!-11 and an inner layer that is gradually falling
apart where the electrician mounted a floodlight outside, with a winged
molly, or whatever it's called. Bought an LED fixture this time, so
maybe this will be the last time I have to remount it. So it can be
good to have a crowded laundry room.
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