Fireplaces and fires

From wikip entry for flue: Fireplaces are one of the biggest energy wasters when the flue is not used properly. This occurs when the flue is left open too wide after the fire is started. Known as convection, warm air from the house is pulled up the chimney, while cold air from outside is pulled into the house wherever it can enter, including around leaking windows and doors. Ideally, the flue should be open all the way when the fire is first started, and then adjusted toward closure as the fire burns until it is open just enough to slowly pull smoke from the fire up the chimney. After the flue heats up from the fire, they are easier to move, but also hotter. Hands should be protected when operating the flue lever; and if a new log is added to the fire, the flue must be adjusted again to ensure that smoke does not billow out into the house.

In my and many fireplaces, you have to stick your arm into the fireplace to adjust the damper. I think that would be too hot. IIRC there are others that can be controlled without roasting one's arm, right?

BTW, talked to a friend just now. They had an electric space heater in a bedroom that seems to have set on fire some papers on the bed, which fire spread to the whole bed. The fire department came in less tha 10 minutes, but the house needs 6 months of remodeling.

Reply to
micky
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A well designed damper chain can be manipulated by the simple expedient of using the hook on the end of the poker.

Reply to
Cindy Hamilton

Many folks just use the poker <hook> to adjust the damper .. dunno. John T.

Reply to
hubops

Aha. I'll have to try that. No fires scheduled for this year, but I won't forget. (I don't think I have a damper chain, but a damper rod, and I don't remember what is on the end or how low the end is. :-( )

I've just left the damper wide open when there was a fire. Not until yesterday did I ever hear or see that one should adjust it to less than wide open.

Isn't that what she said????

Reply to
micky

IIRC those EPA stoves come in 2 flavors - those with catalytic elements and those who "afterburn" by injecting preheated air into the smoke stream (look up "TLUD" stove) . I think the afterburner type is more efficient if your stove operates at 50%-60% output most of the time . Catalytics tend to clog up at low output levels is what the research I've done indicates . Our primary heat source is a wood stove , and I ain't just blowin' smoke up yer ass ... I love the smell of burning oak in the morning !

Reply to
Snag

We got a natural gas insert with both an intake and exhaust. No internal air is used for combustion; no exhaust ends up in the house. The firebox acts as a heat exchanger and a fan blows the hot air into the room.

Reply to
Cindy Hamilton

A good "sealed"or "air tight" stove or fireplace insert is the "cat's meow" - particularly if it has external air supply. It radiates lots of heat into the room and doesn't suck warm air out. A good heat exhanger around the fire-box - either convection or fan forced, gets more heat out of the fire by keeping thne delta T higher - meaning the heat transfer to the air is also higher.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

Ours is an older model airtight type with a bimetallic spring controlling an inlet damper . It doesn't have the means to use outside air for combustion and I haven't figured out a way to do it that won't look like a total clusterf&*k . I use a box fan suspended over the stove to spread the warmth - living room/dining room/kitchen are all one big room .

Reply to
Snag

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