Finishing basment

I am thinking about finishing my basement and have two questions. The basement is cinder block walls with a poured concrete floor. When framing the walls should I nail to the floor using a ramset or would something like liquid nails work? I also have one place where I will need to attach the drywall directly to the cinder block, what would be the best adhesive/method to use?

Thanks Jerry

Reply to
reardong
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I need to attach the drywall to the block along one side of the stairs. The stairs run right along the block wall and there is no room to put in studs. The main reason I have not consider metal framing is I have never used it in the past and would feel more comfortable working with would, besides I don't own a nail gun and don't really want to spend the money one.

Thanks Jerry

Reply to
reardong

I'd use a powder type nail gun to fasten the framing to the concrete floor. Remington makes one that uses 22 cartridges. In the stairwell where you can't do std framing, I would fasten furring strips to the block wall, then attach the drywall to that. I wouldn't try to glue drywall directly to the block wall.

Reply to
trader4

Why not metal framing with a nailgun. its what was used in my basement. And why dryall directly to cinderblock? Seems like bad idea.

Reply to
CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert

On 08/17/05 03:25 pm snipped-for-privacy@burle.com tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

I used a Ramset-type device, but phps Liquid Nails would work.

I also have one place where I

Everything I've read says to build a stud wall spaced away from the block or concrete wall, then sheetrock that.

Perce

Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy

Rent one. Still wouldnt drywall right to cinderblock. use some spacers or furring strips or somethin.

Reply to
CL (dnoyeB) Gilbert

Agree. When I did mine, I used particle board applied with screws with an eye to needed to get at wiring/plumbing. Have had to be in there several times since. Doesn't look at all bad for a basement if it is not used as a living area. I couldn't do a suspended ceiling as the head space was low to begin with and even an inch was too much to give up (6'8")

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

I agree with you that it is easier, more convenient, etc. But I have priced out the difference in cost. I can re-drywall my entire basement ceiling about 6 times for what it will cost for a suspended ceiling. Plus drywall looks better and will give more headroom. All the labor is mine. So, I figure, for me, I will plan as best possible for all future needs, add some conduit and pull strings where possible and the drywall the ceiling.

Reply to
No

Reply to
C & M

In my area, building codes require the walls to be secured to the floor with fasteners. I used Ramset nails and cracked the slab at one place. It's tedious and not as fun as gunpowder charges, but masonry bolts might be safer.

Don't attach drywall to block. It *will* mold. Would furring and styrofoam board insulation fit?

Also remember that block walls are not straight or plumb.

Reply to
The Reverend Natural Light

Please use a suspended ceiling, not real drywall. Cause any future repairs will be a lot of extra work. Having open beams in the cellar really makes work easier.

I know -- done enough work in cellars.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

If you have no room to fur out the area around the steps you might consider spraying texture on the block when you texture the sheetrock and then paint it. I have done two walls in that manner and they have held up just fine for ten years now. It also looks much better than you would think.

CR

Reply to
CR

do not glue sheetrock to the blocks, not even greenboard you must have some sort of vapor barrier and furring to allow at least minimal air space for insulation/venting

If really pressed for space, use cement board (as used in tubs) and thinset/concrete nails to "glue" it

or just thinset/hydrotite cement parged over the blocks.

Reply to
Amun

If you think it all out now, and fix the obvious problems that already exist, before they go critical, you have no reason not to drywall the ceiling. As you already realize it's not really that hard to redo it later IF necessary.

You will likely only need a small hole to fix any future problem, unless you get into major household (structural) renovations. but even then several sheets of drywall is still cheap to replace.

Always amazed at the rationalization most people use to NOT drywall the basement ceiling especially in a two story house where the main floor ceiling has all the services for the second floor.

AMUN

Reply to
Amun

If you really want to drywall the block, go into the siding department and get 1/4" styrofoam for a backer. If it was me I would do an old fashion plaster job. It can look just like drywall without the problems you may incure with drywall.

Reply to
loupark

Ditto that. I also put some 1/2" foil covered foam board between the furring strips for a bit of insulation and moisture barrier. Also ditto on the Remington nail gun. You'll need the heaviest cartridge for nailing into the floor. Wear eye protection. FWIW YMMV DFB

Reply to
MisterSkippy

Use 2.5" concrete nails to secure the bottom plate to the floor. Put a layer of foam "sill gasket" under the bottom plate first to keep it off the concrete

Can you attach some 1" x 2" strapping ( 3/4" thick) to the concrete first, maybe with construction adhesive, then screw rock onto the strapping ?

R
Reply to
Rudy

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