I am thinking about finishing my basement and have two questions.
The basement is cinder block walls with a poured concrete floor.
When framing the walls should I nail to the floor using a ramset or
would something like liquid nails work? I also have one place where I
will need to attach the drywall directly to the cinder block, what
would be the best adhesive/method to use?
I need to attach the drywall to the block along one side of the stairs.
The stairs run right along the block wall and there is no room to put
in studs. The main reason I have not consider metal framing is I have
never used it in the past and would feel more comfortable working with
would, besides I don't own a nail gun and don't really want to
spend the money one.
I'd use a powder type nail gun to fasten the framing to the concrete
floor. Remington makes one that uses 22 cartridges. In the stairwell
where you can't do std framing, I would fasten furring strips to the
block wall, then attach the drywall to that. I wouldn't try to glue
drywall directly to the block wall.
On 17 Aug 2005 13:22:33 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Ditto that. I also put some 1/2" foil covered foam board between the
furring strips for a bit of insulation and moisture barrier. Also
ditto on the Remington nail gun. You'll need the heaviest cartridge
for nailing into the floor. Wear eye protection.
Drywall should not go right on block. use some furring strips and 3/8"
drywall to minimize incursion into your stairwell. As for attaching to
floor, I have used powder actuated nailers and I have used tapcon screws.
Construction adhesive will slow you down (Set wall in place and wait for
glue to dry) I suppose if you are doing one section at a time and your walls
are snug to the floor joists above the construction adhesive may be OK. You
can get a remmington powder actuated nailer for about $20 and it should work
like a champ. Drill an tapcon is most secure. The nails can pull out. Screw
if you are concerned about it.
Even with a firing strip to stand the drywall off of the block I would glue
on a foam insul-board. This will slow moisture incursion (more than you
think) as well as insulate. Did it in my basement 25 yrs ago and it has
held up well. I wish I had done as Hrry K did with the low ceiling. Even
covering the screws with batten strips would have helped. Oh well...
In my area, building codes require the walls to be secured to the floor
with fasteners. I used Ramset nails and cracked the slab at one place.
It's tedious and not as fun as gunpowder charges, but masonry bolts
might be safer.
Don't attach drywall to block. It *will* mold. Would furring and
styrofoam board insulation fit?
Also remember that block walls are not straight or plumb.
Agree. When I did mine, I used particle board applied with screws with
an eye to needed to get at wiring/plumbing. Have had to be in there
several times since. Doesn't look at all bad for a basement if it is
not used as a living area. I couldn't do a suspended ceiling as the
head space was low to begin with and even an inch was too much to give
I agree with you that it is easier, more convenient, etc. But I have priced
out the difference in cost. I can re-drywall my entire basement ceiling
about 6 times for what it will cost for a suspended ceiling. Plus drywall
looks better and will give more headroom. All the labor is mine. So, I
figure, for me, I will plan as best possible for all future needs, add some
conduit and pull strings where possible and the drywall the ceiling.
If you think it all out now, and fix the obvious problems that already
exist, before they go critical, you have no reason not to drywall the
As you already realize it's not really that hard to redo it later IF
You will likely only need a small hole to fix any future problem, unless you
get into major household (structural) renovations.
but even then several sheets of drywall is still cheap to replace.
Always amazed at the rationalization most people use to NOT drywall the
basement ceiling especially in a two story house where the main floor
ceiling has all the services for the second floor.
If you really want to drywall the block, go into the siding department
and get 1/4" styrofoam for a backer. If it was me I would do an old
fashion plaster job. It can look just like drywall without the problems
you may incure with drywall.
If you have no room to fur out the area around the steps you might consider
spraying texture on the block when you texture the sheetrock and then paint
it. I have done two walls in that manner and they have held up just fine for
ten years now. It also looks much better than you would think.
do not glue sheetrock to the blocks, not even greenboard
you must have some sort of vapor barrier and furring to allow at least
minimal air space for insulation/venting
If really pressed for space, use cement board (as used in tubs) and
thinset/concrete nails to "glue" it
or just thinset/hydrotite cement parged over the blocks.
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