Fastenal Ribbed Nutsert

en itself is about 16" by 21" by 0.75" sheet metal tray with hundreds of li= ttle holes in the surface to allow a view of the fire while retaining spark= s. It has a segment of metal welded into each side of the perforated face, = with a 1/4-20 threaded hole in each; a threaded rod assembly goes through a= nd is turned to engage a catch that holds the screen on.

eads in the welded inserts are worn, while the shafts are OK. From this, I = assume that the inserts were a softer steel than the shafts. This is an old= stove and they don't make replacement parts anymore, so I was thinking of = drilling out the holes and tapping in the nutserts. I'd thread a bolt into = the nutsert before tapping to prevent distorting the threads.

These inserts will work just fine. Installation requires a tool.

cheers Bob

Apparently an expensive tool! I wonder if the nutset could collapsed and set by tightening a nut/washer on a on bolt threaded through the back end of the rivet?

These inserts will work just fine. Installation requires a tool.

cheers Bob

Harbor Freight has nut inserts, aluminum.

The web page you linked, steel only, should do the job for you. The install tool is a little like a pop rivet tool.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

These inserts will work just fine. Installation requires a tool.

cheers Bob

I'd try a grade 8 bolt, then a couple washers and a grade 8 nut. Hold the bolt head, and then tighten the grade 8 nut. Might not work, test on some other item first.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

My idea was to drill out the hole, heat the insert red hot with a propane torch, quickly place the hole over a socket and hammer the thing into place.

Paul

Here's the set I own, manufactured by Marson and carried by many suppliers. I have purchased two of them over the years from NAPA.

Paul:

"Nutsert" is just Fastenal's name for this kind of fastener. If you go to Google Images, and type in "insert nut", you'll see all kinds of variations on the same theme.

I use "flanged insert nuts" like these"

to install prefab counter tops onto the existing plywood square edge counter tops in my building, and they seem to work fine. Mine are made of aluminum and have a Allen key drive at the flanged end, 1/4" X 20tpi machine threads on the ID and "external threads" (kinda) on the OD so that they can be driven into a predrilled hole in particle board. I use

You should also be aware that you can buy "perforated metal" in stainless steel, brass and aluminum to make a new screen if you want:

Just phone up any of the places listed under "Sheet Metal" in your yellow pages phone directory and ask who sells perforated metal in your area.

torch, quickly place the hole over a socket and hammer the thing into plac= e.

ne torch, quickly place the hole over a socket and hammer the thing into pl= ace. Paul

Could work. I'd try a couple of samples, not on your fireplace grate. Till you get the feel of how they behave.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

Paul

Use the HF tool, with the other company's inserts?

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

A similar looking tool is sold by Harbor Freight at a much lower price and will become one of your most useful tools if you decide to buy one of them. ^_^

As long as the tool's threaded mandrel matches the threads in the riv-nut, it will install it. The Harbor Freight tool while inexpensive has steel handles and should be able to install both aluminum and steel riv-nuts. My Marson tool is a much higher quality but for someone who is going to use riv-nuts around the home and light commercial use, the Harbor Freight tool is fine. If you don't have one, pick one up and you will soon discover how useful the riv-nuts are and you will trip over applications for them that will surprise you. It will become a favorite tool. ^_^

TDD

torch, quickly place the hole over a socket and hammer the thing into place.

Heating the insert makes it expand and fit worse.

I would try a bolt, as above, to pull the insert in. Or hammering it in cold. Heating the screen and cooling the insert? Looks like really small ribs on the insert.

:53:18 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote: >> I'd try a grade 8 bolt, then a co= uple washers >> >> and a grade 8 nut. Hold the bolt head, and >> >> then ti= ghten the grade 8 nut. Might not work, >> >> test on some other item first.= >> >> >> >> Christopher A. Young >> > My idea was to drill out the hole, h= eat the insert red hot with a propane torch, quickly place the hole over a = socket and hammer the thing into place. > Heating the insert makes it expan= d and fit worse. I would try a bolt, as above, to pull the insert in. Or ha= mmering it in cold. Heating the screen and cooling the insert? Looks like r= eally small ribs on the insert.

Poor wording on my part; by "insert" I was referring to the metal plate wit= h the threaded hole which was inserted into the spark screen, not the rivet= itself. I'm going to take Stormin's advice and tighten it in with a bolt. = I stopped at our local Fastenal today but that part wasn't in stock, so the= y ordered a few.

Please do three or four, on a separate metal. To get the feel for the operation, without risking damage to your real work. And, please, let us know how it works out. Could be a totally useful process for us to learn.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

Poor wording on my part; by "insert" I was referring to the metal plate with the threaded hole which was inserted into the spark screen, not the rivet itself. I'm going to take Stormin's advice and tighten it in with a bolt. I stopped at our local Fastenal today but that part wasn't in stock, so they ordered a few.