Have a pair of eyeglasses that split in the nose (Bridge area).
They are made from one of those "super bendable" alloys like
possibly Beryllium Copper, or Titanium, or...?
Really don't know what it is made of. These are just a guess.
I think I can re-solder them, but want to use the solder type
that offers the best possibility of holding.
Epoxy a better bet ?
Any suggestions and thoughts on this would be most appreciated.
Yep...the hinge on my eye glasses broke and I took them to a repair shop
and they said the same thing "Unrepairable"
I got pissed off as I could fix the hinge myself if I only had a tiny
piece of copper. I found an old all copper penny and snipped off just
enough. Drilled a hole in it and used silver solder.
Though standard electrical solder would work, it's lead and I did not
want that on my face.
Silver solder works fine, just has a slightly higher melting point.
That was 25 years ago and the fix is still good.
These can be repaired. A good optometrist should have facilities to
repair glasses, not jes sell new frames. If you can't find an
optometrist willing to do the work, try a good jeweler. I often
suspected my optometrist's repair tech sent my gold frames out to be
silver soldered by a local jeweler.
If that. Last time I had my $200 gold frames repaired, it cost only
$40. Granted, this was over 10 yrs ago, but I suspect I'd be paying
over $500 dollars to replace these gold frames and six-focal lenses,
these days. ;)
There are other names, I jes couldn't recall them. They are also
called multifocals, varifocal, progresive lenses, etc. Basically,
they are six levels of unlined focal lengths. When I got them, they
were called "computer glasses", as I could easily focus anywhere from
infinity (I'm astigmatic) to 18 inches for my computer monitor.
They are great Italian made gold (18K) frames. I no longer wear
glasses cuz I can't afford a new pair. Plus, my astigmatism is minor
enough, I can get by w/o prescription lenses. I now jes do without or
wear off-the-shelf cheaters for reading. I do have an ancient pair of
single focal length prescription laser glasses I keep in the car in
case I end up driving at night. ;)
I would repair them by adding a piece of metal, like from a paper clip, to
bridge the break, and then use a mixture of epoxy and sewing thread wrapped
around the old and new metal to hold them together. After the epoxy sets,
I would paint the entire frame with a suitable color paint so that the pat
ch looks like it was part of the original frame.
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 19 Aug 2015 09:12:46 -0700 (PDT),
That's a good idea, but painting the whole thing leaves the whole thing
subject to chipping.
Maybe you can just paint the part you fiddled with, up to the next
natural boundary, like the rim of a lens.
And instead of paint consider a marker pen. I have a brass candleabra
that I didn't want to take to have replated again (bought during WWII
when solid brass was impossible to get, unless you wanted valves for
your fighter plane.) And instead of painting I just used a "gold"
marer pen. Looked just like it did when I'd had it replated, 25 years
earlier. (It wasn't an area that ever shone, almost glossy but not
They have silver colored pens too. Check the dollar store.
Tensile strength of epoxy is only about 10% that of metal. Solder is
not much better. I don't know about brazing but strength is higher.
I tossed a titanium pair bought from Zenni Optical that broke like that.
Had only paid $50 for them but if they were $350 that they would have
cost locally, I figure I might have got new frames.
No problem with other Zenni glasses but single bridge wire makes for a
weak link in high stress area.
I'd second the query/suggestion regarding whether there's any recourse
from the supplier first and the laser-welding second.
I'm guessing if they are one of these light-weight alloys you'll have
essentially zero luck getting even silver solder to stick.
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