In most rooms, every point of a wall (with some exceptions) must be
within 6' of an outlet. This is because most corded items will have
6' cords. This translates into outlets every 12', with one within 6'
of the end of wall runs.
For kitchen counters, you need 3 times as many outlets. That is,
every point on the counter wall needs to be within 2' of an outlet,
because kitchen appliances typically have 2' cords. With a typical 2'
deep counter, a 2' cord can't reach beyond the counter to be a hazard.
This requirement translates into outlets every 4', with an outlet
within 2' of the end of counter runs.
Outlets are now required every 6 feet? I seem to remember 12 feet.
Apparently I am out of date
Within 6 feet of every point on a wall, putting them
approximately 12 feet apart! Makes sense, doesn't it? Tom
Think of a 12' wall beginning at a doorway. You must have at least one
outlet 6' from a doorway. If you think every 12' from then on to the next
outlet, you would end up with only 1 outlet on that wall.
When you use the no more than 6' to an outlet rule, then you would be forced
to have at least 2 outlets on that wall.
I have a 22' x 20' family room. One wall has an 8' slider door and near the
other end, a woodstove. That wall has only one outlet in the center proving
that common sense does prevail in some cases. The other three wall have
two per wall, including the one with the door to the hallway. The
unfinished utility area has only one on a long wall but since it is not
considered living area it is OK like that.
Probably OK to code just barely as the slider is not counted as part of the
wall in the 6' rule.
Around here you will get 1 outlet for the entire unfinished basement and
that is probably a GFCI that feeds the outside outlets. When I finished my
basement I put an outlet every 4'. This gives me at least 1 exposed outlet
in each room. Exposed meaning not blocked by furniture etc.
Of course you can. In order to do that (have one centered in each
wall) you have to have three per wall, twelve in the room. Absolutley
absurd for a room that does not need that much service. Minimum code
for that room is eight. That in itself is overkill. It is an area of
the code where there is no common sense IMHO.
The code isn't designed to produce the number of receptacles you're
probably going to need. It's designed to make sure that there's
one within cord-range of anywhere you're likely to put an appliance*.
As for "overkill", there is no such thing as too many power outlets
or too many ethernet drops. Trying to economize on them isn't
penny-wise and pound-foolish, it's just stupid.
* That's why it's worded the way it is. It doesn't say
"an outlet every 12 feet", it says "no section of wall
can be more than 6' from an outlet". Because standard
appliance cords are 6' long.
I kicked the inspector off my property. Him and his bullshit about
to many outlets in a garage. His buddy in the building dept was also
kicked off the property for the same thing when I was building it. I
really do not care what they try since I live in the country, outside
city limits on 60 acres of land. I had nearly the same issue in town a
few years back when they would not sign off the final inspection.
Since I build better than code anyhow I told them where to shuff their
BS. Had no problems selling the house later. Present family is very
happy with it.
They want you to have it inspected not for the saftey BS they give you
but so they can raise your taxes. Fuck them.. MY property, my way.
So, using that logic, I guess you should just put them around the wall
every six inches. Of course there can be too many! Twelve in a large
dining room with essentially no load requirements is too many. In
order to get one centered on each wall that is what would be required.
It is not a matter of econmizing, it is a matter of what makes sense,
what is really required.
And with a lighted China Cabinet even meeting the code you still can
be over six feet from the outlet because of the exit height.
19'6" X 16' with the doors on the long walls in opposite corners. One
door is a 4' creating one short wall (approximately 11' continuous).
The shortest wall would have qualified by code for a centered single I
think, however, that is not a normal furniture location wall.
Think about it, you have young kids around the house. Which is safer,
cords behind the furniture not accessible to them, or dangling out to
the side where they can get them and pull on them.
Lived in the house for fifteen years and have never used more than two
outlets with the exception of Christmas when we plug in a 15 Watt
candle on the window sill.
Doesn't matter, When I install the raised panel wainscoating, the
outlets will end up where they should be.
Not sure I am visualizing this right: with two doors in opposite
corners, each one on a long wall, then a 4' door would leave 15.5' on
that long wall.
So let me suppose there's a 4' door on one 19.5' wall (leaving 15.5'
of wall) and a 3' door on the other 19.5' wall (leaving 16.5' of
wall). Then you have one continuous wall line (going around the
corner) of 15.5' + 16' = 31.5', and another continuous wall line of
16.5' + 16' = 32.5'. [This assumes that the amount each door is
offset from the corner is the same.]
You can cover a 36' wall line with 3 receptacles: spaced at 6', 18',
and 30' from either end of the wall line. So the minimum number of
receptacles for your dining room is 6. Now you mentioned you wanted a
receptacle centered in each wall; I'll assume you mean centered
ignoring the doors. Then if you work it out, you'll need only 8
receptacles, assuming the centerward edge of the smaller door is at
least 3'9" from the very corner.
For the purpose of outlet placement, a wall segment continues around
corners until there is a break, such as at a doorway. So if 8
receptacles provides adequate coverage for the room, then you should
be able to shift all the receptacles a bit to get one centered on each
wall by only adding one or two receptacles.
Well, the National Electric Code spells out explicitly where outlets
are required. What you need to do is check what the NEC says and see
if your existing layout complies. If it does, and the inspector is
asking for something beyond the NEC, you have some hope of appealing.
If the inspector is only requiring what the NEC itself requires, you
are out of luck and need to put in the receptacles.
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