Excellent information, Roger. Regarding masonry bits, some packages say they are
usable in hammer drills, some are not. Is there a way to look at a bit and tell
whether it is rated for use in a hammer drill? While cleaning up my shop
yesterday, I found a brand new, in-the-box, hammer drill that I received as a
Christmas present a few years ago. Go figure.
I know you got a new drill, but in the future, if you need to do any serious
drilling (lots of holes, or holes larger than 3/8") consider a roto hammer
with SDS bits. They lock in, and a roto hammer compared to a hammer drill
is like comparing a hand drill to an electric drill. Lots of good used ones
available, too. I got a nice Makita at a yard sale for $20, and have used
it to drill holes up to 1". It also has a chisel setting, and I have bought
a set of points for breaking concrete and stones and such. Be sure to get
the SDS, as some brand names (Hilti comes to mind) have proprietary drill
bits that can run $100! SDS bits at the Borg are very reasonable, and if
you can find them at yard sales, DIRT CHEAP.
Just a FYI thing.
I was going to say before you replied that there are hammer drills and
there are rotary hammers, which aren't the same thing.
But what's the difference? I know I've used rotary hammers w/SDS bits,
and that they make short work of drilling holes in concrete. But I
really don't know the difference between the two types of tools.
One thing's for sure, for the OP: those carbide masonry bits you get at
the big orange store or equivalent are *not* made to be used in anything
but a regular old drill. That much I know.
I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on
Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours.
HS steel is my choice. If you can find them made in the US or Canada,
all the better. You can use HS steel bits for either wood or metal.
My masonary bits are carbide tipped, but hat is not what you want for
wood or metal. Not sure if Craftsman bits are China-made junk or not?
I prefer to replace the bits, but you can certainly sharpen your old
bits if you spend the time.
High speed are used for soft stuff like plastic. They last a
while on metal.
Colbalt and black oxide and titanium are supposed to last
longer than high speed.
Carbide are for masonry, ceramic, glass, etc.
I'm not sure an indsutrial is any better. My problem is that
most drill assortments take up a couple dozen cubic inches
of air space around a dozen or so drill bits. They used to
sell drill bits in a flat case that I really liked.
HSS are good enough for most home uses.
A Black Oxide drill is just a coating that makes the original drill
lasts a little longer than HSS, but the drill loses its benefit once
the coating is gone.
Cobalt last much longer
Titanium coated drills are for very hard steels but once the coating
wears you lose the benefits.
Carbide drills made for metal are for extremely hard materials but
chip with interrupted cuts. Hard to sharpen. Must use a diamond
wheel for sharpening.
HSS and Cobalt can be sharpened easily without losing any quality.
This can be done by hand with a little practice. You can buy a drill
gauge to lay the drill against and check your work.
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