Thanks for the assist in plumbing in my new toilet location. That was
Now - while I have the ceiling out, I have to cut out and replace a
rather convoluted bit of plumbing that has been leaking over the
It is very difficult access, and I was wondering if anyone has tips or
tricks on what options there are to use to cut the ABS piping in
place? I'll have a tough time getting in with a hacksaw and there is a
lot of copper in close proximity so I doubt I can use a 'saws all'. I
had thought a grinding/cutting wheel on a drill.
It is a combination of 3" waste, and 2" and 1 1/2".
A corollary question is trying to fit everything back in to line up
once almost everything is glued in place. Since it is all attached, I
have *very* little movement possible on the assembly to try to get the
collars, extra pipe and the waste assemblies back into the same area
and to line u p exactly. Is there some sort of coupling that allows a
'butt fit' and then you put it on after the fact? I have seen flexible
rubber ones with an outside metal sleeve presumably for areas where
you need to remove things, but again fitting it in on the last part of
the assembly once all the rest is glued is the issue.
I'm having difficulty describing exactly what the problem is, but
hopefully folks here will get the gist of it.
Yes, two options:
You should be able to get an ABS repair coupling, which is a coupling
without a central ridge. Then as long as you have a long enough
straight section next to your "butt splice", you can slide it over one
end, assemble everything else, mark where the coupling will end up on
each side of the butt joint, apply glue to that area (liberally, since
you won't be able to put any glue on the coupling itself),and then
slide the coupling over.
An alternative is the metal shielded rubber fittings you mentioned.
The ones for aboveground work include a full metal shield the whole
length of the coupling. What you do with it is slide the shield on
one side, put the rubber coupling on one end, and then roll back the
free end of the rubber coupling over the other end of the coupling.
Like if you were folding a cuff in the leg of a pair of pants. Then
you can assemble the rest of the work, and when you are done unroll
the rubber coupling onto the other piece of pipe, slide the metal
shield into place, and tighten it with the appropriate torque wrench.
thank you! I think armed with a cable cutter (I looked on line and HD
has them for like $5) and that ridge less abs repair coupling you
mention I should (hopefully he said) be able to tackle this. I am sure
going to think once , twice, three times, before I hack it all
Send the family away for the day, keep a car and driver handy for
making last-minute trips to the local hardware store for whatever part
you forgot( there's sure to be at least one). If you feel unlucky,
set up a video camera and be prepared to see yourself on America's
Funniest Home Videos.
That is nice, maybe they won't tip over as easy. Maybe add a 3rd can
for stability. One thing in there I don't agree with is adding glue to
the outside of the joint after the joint is glued together. If that
extra glue is needed, then the joint is bad.
It's not good on the outside, but it's really bad on the inside of the
joint. If there is a big glob of wet glue on the inside, then the pipe
is put into service/filled with water, there is no way inside for air to
get to the glue. So the glob of uncured glue works it's way out to air
by dissolving through the joint again until it reaches air. You don't
want cured joints getting dissolved from the inside out with pressure on
them. That's why they say to use less glue on the female fitting, so it
doesn't get pushed inside and take weeks to actually cure. I normally
wipe away the extra glue on the outside, NEVER put more on like in that
article. On the outside also excess glue will form a skin on top and
keep wet glue against the fresh joint not allowing it to fully cure in a
Never heard of a cable saw but then again my actual plumbing experience
is very limited. Thanks to you and BSAKing for mentioning.
Sounds like with the limited working space an oscillating tool might be
the ticket. The cable saw might give a cleaner and straighter cut though
if any of the cut ends need to be preserved.
I prefer an older hand miter saw but you won't have room for that either.
I can't say where I saw it but I know I saw a handle made to fit a sawsall
blade for work in close quarters.
Grinding/cutting wheel on a drill is a great way to break a wrist.
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