Assuming it does have CW at the faucet, the CW hose could be kinked
shut, crud could be plugging the screen at the inlet valve in the
machine, the machine's inlet valve itself could be bad, the water
temperatire selector or associated wiring could be bad. All just guesses
without being there. Larry
On Feb 6, 7:01 am, email@example.com (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:
Good. Everyone prior seems to have overlooked that screen in the
machine itself. I am _very_ familiar with it as my well pumps fine
silt and plugs them. I say "them" as I have had 3 machines over 30
years and finally pulled that screen out of all of them.
Never a problem with the hot water as the heater acts as a settling
tank...which reminds me that I need to drain and clean that tank
Easy stuff first. Is the shut off valve for the cold water turned on? If
it is turn it off and isconnect the cold water hose from the washer. turn
the valve on again. (aim it into a bucket ) and check for water coming out
when the shut off is turned on again.
If no water coming out check for clogged filters at both enda of the hose.
If water comes out of the hose then it is most likely the the valve on the
washer. If the owner is good to work with have them repalce the valve. If
the owner is uwilling, changing the valve is not a big job. get the machine
make and model and call appliance part shop and get pricing. Might be
cheaper on line but delivery time is a factor.
I do not mean this as an "idiotic remark".
If she is renting, is she also renting the machine?
If so, she should call the landlord - not just because it's the
landlord's responsibility, but if the attempted repair causes more
damage, she could be liable for a new machine - or at least subject to
a major finger-pointing hassle.
That said, if it were my machine, I'd turn off the water to the
machine, remove the cold hose from the back of the washer and turn the
water back on - with the hose in a sink/bucket of course.
If there's water coming out of the hose, then perhaps the solenoid for
the cold water valve is broken or if it's a fairly modern machine,
some electronic control circuitry could be bad.
Again, I do not mean this as an "idiotic remark", but you didn't give
us any information as to the type or vintage of the machine so it's
kind of hard to be any more specific.
The do have an Ultimate Speed Challenge that allows for older drivers
and totally custom made cars (as opposed to the kits now required by
the AASBD.) However, there is one criteria to drive in that race that
I don't think you meet:
You have to have raced in a Championship Race in Akron at least once
in order to be allowed drive an Ultimate Speed car. That means you
must have raced as a kid (8 -17) and have been good enough to make it
to Akron by winning your city's annual race or by earning enough
points on the Rally Circuit.
Here are a few pictures from last year's USC. We're in the process of
building a car for the 2010 race which my daughter will be driving.
Pics of all entries and movies of the heats can be found here:
Most likely it's the solenoid valve. After checking that water is
available at the end of the hose and that the screen on the washer
connection, if there is one, is not plugged, next step is to find out
if there is voltage on the solenoid when cold water should be
filling. If there is voltage, then the solenoid valve needs to be
replaced. They aren't very expensive and relatively easy to do.
But, per other comments, if the machine is part of the rental, they
should just call the landlord.
Same problem became a huge pain.
I disconnected the hose and turned on the spigot. OK
Checked the screen. OK
Checked for voltage at the solenoid valve OK
Replaced the solenoid valve, still had the same problem.
Back to square one
Replaced the spigot, problem solved.
I never really troubleshot it anymore but I think the spigot had a
loose washer. The spigot worked OK when you turned it on and off
manually but I think the all-at-once action of the solenoid valve
caused the loose washer to seal against the valve seat.
Lou, being a smart person, has probably already checked the cold water
bib and cold water hose, anyway? Checking for clogging and/or debris?
BTW solenoid valves often have have screens in them too!
Would recommend to check the cold water solenoid or the wiring to it.
Can do that (although he probably already knows this?) by swapping hot/
If cold water with hoses swapped then goes into the tub when machine
is set to hot or mixed then it is MOST LIKELY the cold solenoid valve.
Or the wiring or switch controlling it. Since solenoids do
occasionally burn out. I've seen maybe two or three in the last 50
years or so, it's more usually the hot ones that go open, I'd opt for
checking the cold water solenoid coil.
Solenoid valves are pretty simple to disassemble and it may be
possible to just replace the coil.
The last repair we had to do on our 'dishwasher, by the way, was
replace the coil of the (hot water in this case) solenoid water inlet
valve. They are all much the same and the coil from another used one
is often a perfect fit.
If it's wiring (unlikely) or switches (slightly more likely) it's
pretty simple for anyone with basic electrical knowledge to
That remark about 'renting' is unclear! But in the mean time if the
user does need to use the machine the cold hose could be used to run
some cold water into the open top of the washer while it is filling
with hot; or it could be used to fill the washer with cold water and
then supervise the rest of the washing cycle adding cold water
manually until machine is fixed.
Or with hoses swapped it would at least be possible to wash with COLD
only while the machine is set to HOT and allow it to go through it's
whole cycle. Used washing machines not very expensive anyway.
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