Cutting A Sheetrock Panel

[mcp6453]

The easiest way for me to get access to the space behind my bathroom vanity to run some electrical wiring will be to cut a big hole in the sheetrock. It seems that if I cut the vertical lines down the center line of the 2 x 4 studs on each side, the panel will be much easier to reinstall. It's a no-brainer to cut a hole in sheetrock with a sheetrock saw, but how can I cut just the 5/8" or so of sheetrock that is against a stud?

A circular saw would work, but the sheetrock would probably destroy the blade. A MultiMax tool might be a good idea, but I don't have one. The ideal solution in my mind is a Rotozip, but I don't have one of those, either. While I do have a router, it's quite large and would be hard to handle on a wall like that.

How you you professionals do this, or is there a better way?

[Trencherman]

Sharp,strong sheetrock knife and a long straightedge?

[Doug Miller]

With a utility knife. It's probably only 1/2" thick, not 5/8".

Sheetrock is far too soft to do any damage to a saw blade. You'll make one helluva mess, though.

Cut it with a drywall saw (hand saw) flush to the near side of each stud. To reattach the panel, attach a 2x4 cleat to the studs on each side, and screw the panel to the cleats.

[Colbyt]

Use the rotoZip or drywall saw to cut flush to the inside edge of the studs.

Cut two straight scabs at lest 2" longer than the height of the opening and then attach them to the studs while pulling them flush to the backside of the drywall.. That is why you make them 2" taller than the opening.

Attach the drywall to the scabs. I use 1x11/2 or 2x2 cabs depending on what I have handy when I need one.

You can buy a cheap cutout tool at Harborfreight for about $20.

[Nate Nagel]

or just buy a new piece of drywall and cut the old flush with the stud with a keyhole saw and then after the piece is out cut it back 3/4" or so with a utility knife.

nate

[mcp6453]

Doesn't drywall rapidly dull drill bits and saw blades?

I thought about buying a Rotozip since I'm going to be learning to do some drywall work for a future project. However, the reviews on it at the new Lowes (horribly slow) website are bad. Can I buy a Rotozip drywall bit and use it in my battery Dremel for very small jobs, like outlets? I thought I understood that the drywall dust destroys power tool motors. If I'm wrong, that's good news.

[Joe]

I've done this for years with a jig saw. Simple as can be, just bring the blade to its lowest point of travel (maximum cutting depth) and mark off the cutting depth you want from the platen, then remove the blade and break off the unwanted portion and grind the back of the blade to a profile similar to a new blade. Reinsert blade and proceed to cut drywall, plywood, whatever, to exact depths. When blade is dull, save it for a pattern for another one, and mark it with a Sharpie for the depth it cuts. For decent low priced jigsaws, check out Harbor Freight, maybe eBay. If your jigsaw has a dust blower you can follow a line quite well and the cut out will fit back precisely in the hole anyway, so nearly invisible repairs are possible.

Joe

[Colbyt]

Yes you can. Most Dremels do not ship with the base plate which makes the cuts straighter and cleaner but it will work using your highest speed.

[Doug Miller]

Didn't I just say that it doesn't?

To answer your question directly: NO. Plaster does; maybe that's what you're thinking of. But drywall is just pressed powdered gypsum. It's nowhere nearly as hard as a steel saw blade.

Dunno. Depends on whether it fits, and what the max speed on the Rotozip bit is -- the Dremel runs somewhere around 13000 rpm, I think. Not sure if Rotozip bits are OK to run that fast. You could Google it.

Again, you appear to be thinking of plaster. Drywall is sometimes referred to as "plasterboard" but it's not at all the same thing. Plaster is far harder and more abrasive than drywall, and it *does* ruin motor bearings, drill bits, and saw blades, and should be cut only with carbide-tipped tools (or tools you're willing to throw away).

[dadiOH]

Numerous things can be called "plaster"...lime plaster, cement plaster, plaster of Paris. The first two have sand; the last - what most people mean by "plaster" does not normally...it is the same mineral as that in drywall; namely, gypsum. As you said, it is quite soft.

[DanG]

I like to make the cut in the center of the stud bay(s) and not struggle with that cut down the center of the stud. Much easier cutting, much faster with almost any tool. When it is repair time, screw a scrap metal stud or 1x along the cut drywall edges and screw in the replacement piece. You can even go the next level with a butt board type install that pulls the butt joint down where it finishes much like a taper joint. Some Level 5 drywallers are going to this system on new work.

[Doug Miller]

That is *not* what's meant by "plaster" in the context of making a lath and plaster wall. Plaster *ornaments*, yes, but walls, no. Walls are normally lime plaster.

True, but irrelevant. Nobody makes walls out of plaster of Paris.

[salty]

[aemeijers]

Well, I'm no pro, but I'll jump in anyway-

No good way if you want to reuse the cut-out section for a patch. I usually scrounge a hunk of rock to patch with, then cut a hole in the center of the area to have something to grab. Use a straightedge and a sharp utility knife or carpet knife to score away at your edge lines very carefully. Idea is to not crumble the cut edge of the drywall NOT being removed, so you can get a clean joint. Take your time and make lots of passes, changing blades as needed. At a certain point, you will be able to grip to open side and snap it off.

Alternative method for impatient people like me- cut the drywall flush with the studs, using a drywall hand saw. (power saws tend to cause nail pops.) Screw 2x3 cleats to the exposed side of the stud, and screw your patch to those.

aem sends...

[Josh]

I'm not a professional, but I've done this with a normal utility knife

-- just start scoring deeper and deeper until you get through the depth of the drywall. If I had dozens of these to cut, I'd get a rotozip, but one or two will only take 5 minutes to do by hand.

Josh

[Phisherman]

Forget about an electric tool unless you are willing to deal with a big mess. Use a stud finder to locate the edges of the studs and mark these with a pencil. Use a utility knife with a new blade to cut between the lines. This will take more time than an electric tool, but you'll get a narrower gap with the utility knife and perhaps a faster repair time.

[benick]

With JUST one I would just draw it out with a level and a pencil and cut it with a utility knife with a NEW blade ....Just keep scoring it till it pops thru.....Use scabs on the studs or a piece of strapping screwed to the back of the sheetrock on the wall to put it back...If you do screw a piece of strapping to the back of the sheetrock be carefull the screws pop through the strapping or piece of 1X and bite you if your not paying attention...BTDT.......

[Harry K]

While power tools will easily cut it, the gypsum dust _will_ rust the hell out any steel/iron it gets on. The dust will also be very hard on the motor. I have ruined one vacuum cleaning up after a drywall job.

Harry K

[Jim Elbrecht]

-snip-

I'm no stickler for cleanliness and have never noticed gypsum dust taking any toll on tools. Especially the vacuum! If your vac died after a sheetrock job there are a dozen things I'd suspect before the presence of some gypsum dust.

Jim

[Doug Miller]

What in the world are you talking about? Iron doesn't rust unless it gets wet.