crimp connections for 110v wiring

I hope I GET LUCKY !!! :)

Because a properly made crimp connection made with the proper tool is far superior to a wire nut . For a long time many electricians have used a Buchannon crimper when good connections are needed. In fact, in some localities, such as in Fort Wayne, Indiana, to this day, a crimp made with with a Buchannon crimper is THE ONLY acceptable connection allowed for connecting the equipment ground wires in residences in order to past an electrical inspection in that city.

This_IS_ the tool that most electricians in this country (USA) use to make crimp connections on 12 and 14 gauge wires:

Hi, At least I have not experienced wire nut causing trouble. Crimping is permanent vs wire nuts, you can undo it when needed. But which one to use depends on the situation. Tony

The manufacturer of the terminal is usually the best source of the crimper to use them.

When you are soldering a barell connector you only crimp it enough to hold the wires together unttil the solder sets. That way the solder has room to wick into the barrel. Be sure you have a big enough iron, think mass. If the iron is too small it cools down and has to slowly heat up the joint. That is what burns the insulation. The old time sparkies used an iron with a tip the size of your thumb and a lot of copper in it.

Oh I'm sure I have a crappy tool.

I think there are two types of crimps being discussed here. This type...

Yeah but you were working for Samuel Insull* at the time.

(* I was going to say Thomas Edison but thought I'd make it less obvious.)

Corrosion: If you've seen corroded crimp connectors, you never found the good ones. It's nearly impossible to find them in retail stores.

Code: Don't spout theories without checking them first. They're actually legal in quite a few municipalities.

Crimped connections certainly are code-approved most places, they're UL listed, CSA approved, etc. They take up less space than a wire nut, and when they're done right they're more vibration resistant. They're available insulated (commonly 600V rating) or bare metal, commonly copper.

I can't think of any good reason not to use properly-installed crimp connectors for household wiring, except perhaps on fixtures that are likely to be replaced somewhat frequently. I certainly wouldn't worry about homeowner's insurance objecting to code-compliant crimped connections.

Buchanan Crimp Connectors

are the way to go

I do love their crimp tools -- besides being the best electrical crimpers I've ever used, they do a great job of securing end caps on bicycle gear and brake housing -- since they crimp from four sides at once, they leave the housing round.

probably Thomas and Betts (T&B)

Yes, that covers UL. No mention of solid or stranded - are all in that set good for solid wire? What is your experience crimping #12 and #10 solid?

I don't remember any NEC restriction on wire connection devices for general wiring other than they be UL listed (actually listed as conforming to a UL standard). If listed and used within their ratings crimps should be acceptable to the NEC. Presumably to comply with the listing you have to use a manufacturer recommended tool.

bud--

I'll expand on Toller's question. Why? What circumstance in any residential application requires the use of a crimped connection? As one poster referenced, there may be a code requirement in one locale but I suspect that's not your case. Now, I'm all for over-engineering something and also looking for a reason to buy a new cool tool.

So, what is the reason you think you require a crimped connection?

Where I am special crimp connections are required by code for making Al-Cu connections. However the equipment is so expensive no one stocks it or rents it. Richard

In reply to "No"

Question: why even *want* to crimp, anyway?

my answer: space. (a) my house (1969, Cu wiring) used crimps when built. There are many boxes where there is no room for wire nuts when rewiring in an existing box. (b) I am remodelling my kitchen. new wiring, new boxes. I got the largest volume boxes I could find, but I am using (an admittedly over-the-top number of) programmable dimmers which have 5, count 'em, 5, connections for each dimmer (gnd, neut, data buss, hot, switched load).

Maybe not a good reason, but that's my reason.

BTW, thanks to all the reply-ers for very interesting and thoughtful comments and suggestions.

Bill

What sort of equipment? If it has to be usable in some of the confined spaces where you often have to make connections, wouldn't it have to be in the size of range of other hand tools?

Thanks for commenting back. Sometimes folks take the time to reply to posters then feel like they are talking back to no one.

Would you mind posting information on the programmable dimmers? Sounds like they are not X10 given a data buss connection. Why did you chose your system? Is it easy to retrofit?