I bought too short of a driveway-gate exit wand (GTO FM139 = 50 feet); I
need 150 feet.
Nobody told me (so I'm saying it here), one really needs about 150 feet if
they want the driveway gate to be open by the time the moving mass of metal
(i.e., automobile) reaches the gate. Lesson learned.
Researching the web, it appears GTO sells three wands:
- FM139 = 50 feet wired (about $180)
- FM140 = 100 feet wired (about $200)
- FM141 = 150 feet wired (about $225)
The instructions say you can not splice additional lengths
Calling www.gtopro.com technical support at 800-543-4283, they say there is
no difference between the wands or the wire other than the length BUT if I
splice in a wire, it won't work.
The technical support guy was very helpful. He said the reason it won't
work is that the "sensitivity of the magnetic field" changes with the
I don't understand why (if I make a good splice) but maybe there is
something about magnetic fields I don't understand that you can elucidate
for me? The wire is 5 conductor 16awg multi-strand shielded.
What is it about a splice that destroys the magnetic field?
One thing is shielding of the splice...
Then other than that, the wire length might have a certain *total*
resistance or *total* capacitance and this is adjusted for at the wand or at
the adjustment for the wand.
This principal might be along the lines of adjusting a CB antenna like it
says here (length of the antenna matters)...
"Elmo" wrote in message
On the face of it, this is a pile of manure.
It's possible (as someone else said) that the system might be calibrated for
specific cable lengths, and it might be difficult to splice the wire in such
a way as to maintain the desired electrical characteristics. But an amateur
antenna system has at least two "splices" in it -- one at the transmitter,
the other at the antenna -- and it works fine.
If the folks running the company are "nice" people, they should take back
the too-short cable -- even though it's been used -- and give you full
credit towards a cable of the right length.
This is for exit only. I asked how do they get in, thinking any decent gate
will have a remote control. Go through same procedure as to get
in, push button. !!!! That RF is a usefull thing !!! Remote control !!!
A magnetic sensor is usefull to prevent closing the gate and hitting car.
On Mon, 01 Feb 2010 19:47:16 GMT, email@example.com (GregS)
Could be like the gate at a corporate site I occasionally visit - for
entry, you speak to a guard and show ID via a TV camera and the guard
opens the gate. A device like the one in this thread is used to allow
people to exit the gate.
On Mon, 01 Feb 2010 20:16:20 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Yes. The "typical" gate setup is:
1a. Owner approaches gate and flips remote control to get in.
1b. Utility truck approaches gate and pushed their logged 4-digit combo on
the digital keypad to get in (whether or not someone is home)
1c. Guest arrives and has to press the intercom button and can only be let
in if someone inside the house provides them access. Guest then pushes a
button on the keypad to open the gate.
2. In all cases above, the gate closes 25 seconds after it was opened.
3. In all cases above, when the owner/utility/guest leaves, the gate
automatically opens for them via the exit want magnetic field disturbance
At least that's how my gate is set up. Some are set up to open via
cellphone but mine isn't fancy.
I am familiar with only one setup. A sewage plant. The opperator
controls gate open or close, and the pickup prevents the gate
from ramming into the vehicle.
You must have many guests and visitors to warrent this setup you have,
I think it's the "typical" setup to have a way for guests to leave.
You have to note that I considered wiring a push-button (doorbell type)
switch in the house to open the gate for guests to leave but I can't even
see the gate from the house since it's about 500 feet down a hill to the
gate - so that would be a safety problem.
I guess I should walk everyone to the gate but that seems like a lot to ask
of me. But I think most people have the following bare minimums and common
BARE MINIMUM ELECTRONICS:
- Keypad & remote open (with automatic close)
- Stall force setting so nobody gets crushed
EXTREMELY COMMON ELECTRONICS:
- Intercom for convenient entrance of guests
- Exit wand for automatic open upon exit
- Telephone-operated gates (open/close from your cell phone)
- Video feeds on the gates (so you can see who is at the gate)
There is a keypad to get in, and a remote.
Both work fine for the owner of the house, but not for guests.
Guests enter via the outside-the-gate intercom keypad.
But the gate closes 25 seconds after being opened.
When guests leave, the exit wand triggers the gate to open.
There is no connector. Each of the four 16 AWG multi-stranded wires arrives
from the factory stripped of about 1/4 inch at the ends and tinned solid.
We just screw those four wires plus the shield into connections on the gate
The simple answer is just try it! What do you loose, a few minutes of
That said, just make sure your splice is absolutely waterproof. 3M
makes underground splice kits that may work (used primarily for telco
I have to find the 4-wire multi-stranded shielded cable first ... but I
will try the splice kit at the same time if I can find that also.
This morning I called GTO technical support again at 800-543-1236 and spoke
this time with a woman with a southern accent who told me a splice could be
done, but she said the problem is that it will eventually break. And, since
it will be underground, I won't know where it is and I'll be calling
technical support who won't know that it was spliced while they
When I asked "but CAN it be spliced?", she confirmed there is no difference
in the wand itself between the longer lengths of wire as the sensitivity
adjustments are done on the gate control board itself.
I'll look for that 3M waterproof splice kit. I think I'll need a
low-voltage splice kit. According to this web site, the voltage is 8 to 32
VAC or 8 to 26 VDC with a miniscule current of 1.5ma.
Be sure to let us know how this turns out. You owe us.
On Tue, 2 Feb 2010 15:07:32 +0000 (UTC), Elmo
No, it won't. Not if it's soldered correctly. Have you soldered
much? Do you know how to solder well, to clean the wire first -- I
just scrape four sides of the wire with a fairly sharp knife --, use
flux core solder designed for electrical work, and make it hot enough
to not get a cold solder joint?
Of course you'll know where it is. It will be 50 feet from where you
buried the wand. And about 100 feet from where the controller is.
Note how far from the driveway you bury it and measure how far from
thecontroller it is, and write it down and tape it to the controller
The next owner might well be in that situation. Make sure you leave
clear documentation for him. The guy who sold me my house spent an
hour teling me things about it.
As I thought in some other post of mine.
Anything that works for high voltages works for low voltages. I'm not
sure what the advantage of the kit is. Certainly if I couldn't find
the kit, I'd just wrap the self-fusing tape around the wire, going an
inch or more past the splice, past the part where the original
insulation is still intact.
My neighbor had some semi-skilled guys putting in a small fence and
they cut my phone line. Of course they "took repsonsibilty" and they
were winding the wires together and taping them with standard electric
tape. I came out and stopped them, and soldered the connections and
wrapped them in this self-fusing tape, and even when I had dial-up
internet, I got very good connection speeds.
Later, someone told me I should let the phone company repair it and
indeed they would do it for free, but the guy on the phone said all
they do is use those gel-filled connectors and what I did was better.
Nothing beats solder, and no tape beats Scotch 23.
Now, if you don't have an connector on the end of the wire, you could
use heat-shrink tubing, but though it looks real nice, it doesn't have
much tension when shrinking or afterwareds, and I think the scotch 23,
silicone tape will do a much better job.
BTW, are you near powerlines? Most places aren't but a few are.
I have a propane torch, a smaller butane torch with soldering tips, and the
Weller soldering station. I'm not all that good (I always seem to melt the
solder instead of heating the wires) but I'd consider myself ok with
I could also look for an electrical connection type box (like the ones
used with the water sprinklers) and that way it would be obvious to all,
even any new owners.
I think I'll solder in a compatible wire after finding that scotch 23 in a
local hardware store. My home depot didn't have it.
Yes There are overhead power lines. Why do you ask?
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