I have a craftsman garage door opener in a place I am renting, (but I want
to fix it my self) and need to know what the part is called that goes from
the trolley I think they call it, to the door. IIRC it is like a metal bar
that is angled near the door end of it.
I guess the sears website will still have it, or is there a better or
cheaper place to buy it.
Also I will need a "remote" for it. Can I get some type of universal opener,
or is sears the best bet for that too?
on 4/26/2008 11:05 PM Anthony Diodati said the following:
Sears sells parts at reasonable prices. I have replaced parts for my 22
year old Craftsman opener from the Sears parts store.
Almost any universal remote can be programmed to open your Craftsman
opener. Check the package to see if it works for your opener.
Looks Like they call it a door arm.
I found a universal one,
but don't know if I need a straight one or a curved one.
It is a sectional door, So I am thinking curved?
(Anthony Diodati) writes:
| Looks Like they call it a door arm.
| I found a universal one,
| but don't know if I need a straight one or a curved one.
You use them both. They bolt together allowing you to adjust the length
of a leg of the L. I'm not sure why the set costs $5 more than the sum
of the costs of the parts; perhaps it includes some bolts.
on 4/27/2008 12:23 AM Dan Lanciani said the following:
My Craftsman opener only uses the straight arm.
Because of a beam that runs across the garage and thereby lessens the
headroom for the track, I have a double track system.
The two rollers on the top of the topmost panel roll in the upper track,
and all the rest roll in the lower track.
That may be why mine has the straight arm. The curved arm would hang
down too low and could be a hazard for the head. As it is, I had to
shorten the rope for the door release because the wooden handle would
smack me right in the face if I wasn't watching for it..
Is that right? Well, if that's the case I may be able to just get a piece of
straight stock from the hardware and drill some holes in it.
My garage is also pretty low, and yes my door also has the double track
system, with the two rollers on the top of the topmost panel that roll in
the upper track,
and the rest that roll in the lower track.
Looks like what the manual I found on line is calling a "door bracket"
may be missing too. maybe I could fabricate something close to it, or just
2 pieces of angle iron bolted to the door,with holes drilled through them.
Any one else just have a straight arm on a double track system?
Thanks to all, Tony
With the model # you should be able to find Sears parts diagrams,
prices, etc at their website.
Well we ended up making a straight door arm from a piece of aluminum
Worked out just fine. Seemed like the trolley might have been way out of
time, as when I measured from the door bracket to the trolley with the
door/trolley in the down position, and then in the up position, the
measurements were way off.
I dropped the chain and moved it a few times and got it a lot closer, then
fine tuned it with the closing distance adjustment.After the homemade arm
was on, we fine tuned it a little more.
The door/opener is working pretty good, but it did bind and reverse a few
times, and we found that the top of the door is slightly contacting the top
track on the left side as it comes up about 8 inches. We found a few bad
rollers, so we are going to replace them and go from there.
Worse case, we might have to drop the top of the door off, and trim a bit
off the one end.
This is an older building and an older door, so we will just try to do the
best we can with out putting too much money into it.
Yes sears does have the parts, two door arm sections, and the door bracket
with shipping was $36.00, the way we did it, it was free.
Garage door guy told me I could move the track over a little bit so that's
what I did.
Had to drill new holes in the wood holding the track brackets to the front
Got plenty of clearance now.
One thing I noticed, There is no cable running through the springs that help
pull the door up.
I thought there were supposed to be safety cables running through the
springs in case a spring would break?
Is this not the case?
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