On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 19:11:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
I had a nice big red maple cut down - right over my sewer line -
before it gave me problems. It wasn't cheap. It was the best
Also saved me from climbing on the roof yearly to clean the gutters.
I've still got plenty of nice trees.
It was a thoughtless act to plant a tree right over the sewer line 50
ago years ago, but they probably didn't know better.
I've felled all of the original trees on the property (last one we
had to hire-out as a mistake would have done serious damage to any
of the four homes it could fall on!) -- largely to eliminate the
maintenance issues and "risks" (we have lots of microbursts in the
neighborhood that easily topple 70 ft, 36" dia pines!).
I'd hoped that the last tree (pine) would result in eliminating the
pine needles that accumulate on the (flat) roof. But, apparently,
those that are still accumulating there are fom neighbor's trees
behind us. I guess the wind carries them pretty far when they fall
off from those heights!
Neighbors grumbled when I took the deciduous trees down:
"Oh, the leaves were so pretty in the Fall...!"
(WTF? They were just YELLOW! Not the vibrant reds and oranges
from Maples, etc.)
"Yeah, well I never saw any of you guys helping to rake them
and *bag* them..."
We've settled on citrus (because they produce edible fruit) and
"Mimosa" trees -- smallish (perhaps 15 ft tall/wide) with delightful
flowers that the hummingbirds adore:
No fear that they'll be toppled onto the house/car. And, I can take one
down in a matter of hours -- leaving no sign of it's presence!
(contrast with days/weeks/months for some of the larger trees that
We had one in our front yard like that. When I dug up the root system
(removing ~20 yards of soil), I found a 6" diameter root following the
clay sewer pipe *under* the house! Tricky removing it without
damaging the pipe.
The mimosa planted in its place will never develop as complex/intense/deep
of a root system.
I always recycle all the fallen leaves into mulch.
I love Mimosa trees. Had one come up volunteer in my back yard this
last summer and I was able to pot it up and I'm training it as a bonsai,
now. It's still growing in doors under grow lights and doing well. I
hope to train it and even get it to bloom in it's miniature state, but
not sure how long it'll take to get it to do that from seed.
We grew all of ours from seed. They grow fast (here, we have a very long
growing season) -- especially if aggressively watered. I think it was less
than three years to get as tall as me.
The downside is that they produce a lot of litter (seed pods).
So, we remove the pods from the tree before they get a chance to
"dry" (ripen?) and dispense their cargo to the coil, below.
Otherwise, you end up with *hundreds* of volunteers each season -- from
I've had very limited success trying to recover volunteers from the
Texas Mountain Laurel:
fabulously fragrant flowers -- smells like grape juice as you walk to
our front door! Apparently, they send a deep tap root long before
much appears above the surface. And, this root is easily damaged.
So, trick is to dig down *deep* with the tiniest of volunteers
and transfer to a pot. Then, after getting established, move to
a permanent location in the yard. I've done this successfully twice,
now. I need 2 more successes.
Downside is they take FOREVER to grow! :<
Absolutely *no* luck trying to cultivate anything off the razzleberry:
another spectacular bloomer -- though no apparent fragrance. I suspect
the plants may be sterile (?)
It may be a hybrid, I'm thinking. It's also called Chinese Fringe
flower, at least that what it looks like. You can probably propagate it
using stem cuttings, or bury some branches in the dirt with a couple of
leaf nodes buried in the dirt and the rest of the branch growing above
ground. Maybe treat the nodes that'll be buried with rooting hormone
and keep it buried for a month or so. Roots should develop at the
buried leaf nodes, and you can cut it off from the rest of the bush
taking the roots and branch and replanting it.
We won't take "extraordinary measures" with these. We've tried 3 or 4
"store bought" plants to complement the ~8 ft bush we already have.
None of them have fared well. So, we suspect it's a fluke that
the *one* has done well at all!
Sad as it truly is an attractive plant!
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 23:02:59 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Up north where there's a frost line it not that easy. My sewer lines
in a suburb of Chicago are about 7-8' deep.
And you don't need a pipe cutter. Clay pipe.
Just a hammer. And a trencher capable of going 8' deep.
And plenty of men and shovels.
Probably cost 10-15 grand to replace the pipe from my house to the
city sewer line, about 60' feet.
On Friday, January 15, 2016 at 8:37:51 AM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote:
In addition to the frost line issue, in my case the gas service and
water main are all in that same "line". They all enter/leave the house
in the same corner. The gas service is on top, then the water main, then
the sewer pipe. Any digging done with a machine could be hazardous,
especially if done by a rookie (me). The gas service is less than 3
years old, but the water main may be original. It's just not something
I would feel comfortable disturbing.
We might as well toss in the landscaping that would need to be done, etc.
$5K to have someone line the pipe for me, and give me a warranty, seems
like the better option in this case. For now, I'll stick with the Root-X
since it's really easy to apply via the clean-out and has worked for the past
That would be step one in any drain cleaning operation anyway. Why
complicate the process with a bunch of parts that are this easy to
remove. You might find your problem before you even get to the wall.
You can usually get to the trunk line with a closet auger once you get
to the wall stub.
Drop all of those parts in a bucket of water with a splash of bleach
and they will look like new overnight.
You are probably right about that. I just looked at the problem bathroom
sink again this morning. It has a 1 1/4 inch metal P trap that goes into
the wall, then a 90 down to below the floor, then a 90 and across the
ceiling (above the ceiling, below the floor -- I have the ceiling below
opened up) to the main 4-inch cast iron sewer line where the toilet ties in.
It's about a 7 foot horizontal run of a narrow lead pipe drain line with
almost no pirch to it.
The "clog" or partial obstruction always appears to be near the end of the
narrow lead pipe run down close to, or at, the place where it meets the
toilet sewer line. It is a chronic slow draining problem that recurs a
month or two after snaking out the line. Other evidence that the clog is
near the end of the line is that it takes awhile of running water into the
sink before the water starts to back up into the sink. So, I think the
whole pipe etc. has to fill up before it backs up into the sink -- meaning
the clog is not right at or near the sink.
After looking at it this morning, I think that I may decide to cut the
horizontal part of the P trap and put a Fernco there. Then, to snake out
the line, I will disconnect the Fernco and put the drain snake in and it
will only have to make two 90 degree turns to get all the way to the end of
While looking at what is there now, and thinking about the water pressure
device that others mentioned, I started thinking that I could invent a
fitting that attaches to a hose on one end and the other end of the fitting
would screw tightly onto the P trap up underneath where the curved part of
the P attaches to the horizontal piece. It would be a specifically designed
fitting -- maybe in two sizes -- one for 1 1/4 drain lines and one for 1 1/2
But, then my alarm clock went off and I woke up, and the dream was over.
If you do any cutting into that pipe at all, I would suggest
increasing the pitch. Shorten the vertical at the sink end. You could
replace the 90 with a sanitary tee and create a cleanout but with
better pitch, you might never need it.
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