The only way to get a light bulb to last 20 years is to regularly change
the vacuum inside. Most people are negligent with regards to the proper
maintenance of a light bulb.
Not draining the old vacuum and putting in a new, fresh vacuum is like
never changing the oil on your car.
It's nice to see intelligent people here like Buford who does things right.
| > The drawback to Halogen is the heat.
| And they don't like being dimmed.
I've never found that. Dimmers are bad for CFL, unless
you get a CFL specifically designed for it. I've never seen
a halogen bulb affected by dimmers. I have them in sconces
in one room that gets an average of probably 2-3 hours
use daily. They haven't been replaced since the room was
renovated about 12 years ago. Another room gets used
a bit more -- typically 3-4 hours daily -- and has 3 track lights.
Those lights are 5-6 years old and still haven't been replaced.
The kitchen has a sconce with the light left on from dark to
bedtime. That bulb seems to go about every 3 years. All are
always on dimmers and rarely set to full power.
The heat issue *is* relevant. I wouldn't use halogens in
recessed lighting, or in any other fixture that's not spaced
away from the wall or ceiling. (Cracked insulation on wires
resulting from heat caused by ceiling-mounted lights is a
big problem in old houses.)
| On 03/15/2014 08:29 AM, Mayayana wrote:
| > The heat issue*is* relevant. I wouldn't use halogens in
| > recessed lighting, or in any other fixture that's not spaced
| > away from the wall or ceiling.
| So a 100 watt halogen puts out more BTUs than a regular 100 watt
Generally the halogen would be lower wattage, but
they do seem to be much hotter. I don't have figures
| >> | So a 100 watt halogen puts out more BTUs than a regular 100 watt
| >> incandescent bulb?
| >> Generally the halogen would be lower wattage, but
| >> they do seem to be much hotter. I don't have figures
| >> on it.
| > Both halogen and regular incandescent 100 watt bulbs would output 341
| > BTU/hr.
| Might be higher temperature?
It's misleading terminology. Watts and BTUs are
both just measures of energy. BTUs are often used
to express heat output, but a BTU is actually just
a measure of energy. He's just translating one term
to the other. It doesn't measure heat output,
or light output for that matter, just as a toaster
doesn't put out the same heat or light as a ceiling
fan/light fixture at the same power draw.
Here's a quote from Wikipedia:
"Halogen lamps get hotter than regular incandescent lamps because the heat
is concentrated on a smaller envelope surface, and because the surface is
closer to the filament. This high temperature is essential to their
operation. Because the halogen lamp operates at very high temperatures, it
can pose fire and burn hazards. In Australia, numerous house fires each year
are attributed to ceiling-mounted halogen downlights."
Halogen bulbs seem to be notably more efficient
than tradition incandescent. The 100w equivalents
I use are 72w, for example. But that's just efficiency
in converting energy to light. There's still 90%+-
energy that's wasted, presumably as heat. So a halogen
bulb might actually produce slightly less heat than a
traditional incandescent bulb, but they're tiny by
comparison. I remember when they first came out
there were a lot of problems with fires because "floor
sconces" were popular at the time -- 5'-6' high standing
lamps with a halogen bulb, pointing at the ceiling. There
were cases where curtains touched the bulbs and
quickly lit on fire.
This is correct but misleading. Quartz halogen run at a higher
temperature. If you notice regular incandescent bulbs turn black as
they age. This is due to the tungsten evaporating and depositing on
the inside of the bulb. This evaporation limits the filament
temperature, and thus the efficiency of the bulb. Quartz halogen run
at higher temperatures and the halogen scavenges the tungsten from the
inside of the bulb and re-deposits on the filament. A dimmer can be
used but the bulb does not get hot enough for the halogen to work and
the life of the bulb will decrease. Quartz is used for the bulb
because it can withstand higher temperatures than glass.
For the record, halogen bulbs _are_ incandescent. i.e. they heat a
resistive filament with electrical current causing it to glow. They simply
change the materials and design a bit to survive operating at a higher
temperature where 'normal' incandescent bulbs would rapidly fail.
| > Recently I needed to find a replacement for 100w work lights
| > and found a very nice solution: There are now bulbs that
| > look like incandescent and fit like incandescent, but with a
| > small halogen bulb inside instead of a filament.
| For the record, halogen bulbs _are_ incandescent. i.e. they heat a
| resistive filament with electrical current causing it to glow.
OK. What I meant was that they're now making bulbs
the same size and threads as traditional incandescent,
but if you look inside you can see that they've actually
mounted a small halogen bulb inside, glass and all. In other
words, the bulb is actually an adaptor for a halogen bulb.
I just tossed one that burnt out in my kitchen.
GE replacement is a real hummer. You get used to it but when wife
turned it on yesterday, not knowing that I had put new CFL bulb in, she
went out to check our new smoke alarms wondering if it were them.
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