I just drywalled my garage and am ready to begin painting. I know I
need to use a primer first, but does it matter much if I use a cheap
primer? HD had glidden for about $35 for a pva primer...Kilz is about
$70 for 5 gallons buckets. I don't want to put something up that will
peel off with my final coat of regular paint.
I always thought Kilz was really for special cases (water damage..etc).
You don't need Klitz, it's for water stains etc. Use a good oil based primer
and if you know your final colour make sure that you have the primer
pre-tinted to match. Think of it this way though using a really really cheap
primer is like using a cheap piece of tape and then putting expensive duct
tape over top of it, since the duct tape sticks to the cheap "primer" tape
which one do yout hink is going to be the problem? This is why in a lot of
placefs you'll see the paint pealing off with the primer still attached.
A good latex primer will be fine.
There's probably not a huge difference between between cheap
(but reasonable) primer and expensive primer on fresh drywall,
as long as it covers reasonably well.
It'll matter with old previously painted walls a lot more. The
more expensive stuff will cope with difficult situations (dirty,
incompatible paints, etc) better.
With paint, of course, it can matter quite a bit.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It\'s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Chris Lewis ( email@example.com) said...
The big issue with new drywall is that it provides a surface with
varying ability to soak in moisture. The paper surface of the drywall
will soak in moisture at one rate, and the places where mud is will
soak in at a different rate that varies with the thickness of the mud.
I suspect this is more of an issue with latex paint than oil, but
regardless a primer should be used in order to seal the surface so that
paint will not have its moisture wicked out of it at varying speeds.
Without primer, you will likely see the places where mud is and where
it isn't in the finished paint job.
Look for a primer that has "high hiding" on its label. Better primers
will likely only need a single coat, while cheaper ones may need two
(making them about the same cost anyways).
When we built our home, we went with a cheaper primer as we planned to
apply two coats: first the walls were primed and trim was primed before
cutting and installiing; after the trim was installed and nail holes were
filled, a second coat of primer over the trimmed wall was applied.
"I really think Canada should get over to Iraq as quickly as possible"
I have no idea how the various primers compare. We used the Glidden PVA
because it was cheaper than buying the equivalent amount of paint.
Otherwise we would have just put on an extra coat of the matching paint.
The main advantage of primers like Kilz is they'll cover problem surfaces
nicely. For example, we painted my in-laws house several years ago, and
despite scrubbing the walls and ceiling with TSP, there was still an oil
film covering everything. It bled right through multiple coats of standard
primer and paint. But, Kilz covered it nicely, and we could then paint over
Piece of trivia regarding Behr paint: Behr makes 2 primers for their latex
paints. One for glossy and one for flat paints. I called them up once and
they told me that the primer for glossy is actually superior and slightly
more expensive and can be used for flat paints too and they recommend it.
They sell the cheap flat paint primer to have a competitive product out
there and apparently it is good enuf for flat paint work.
Kilz makes several products for various applications. Their oil base
interior primer is the most widely known. Try the following link for info
on the eight different primers they offer.
ALWAYS use Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) primer over NEW drywall or newly
textured surfaces before painting anything else. Do NOT use an oil
(alkyd) primer for drywall.
Be sure to roll it on as evenly as you can -- do not just spray it on,
it must be worked into the surface.
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