Changing *all* the pool water without lowering the water level

YADA YADA YADA

The simplest way to change the water and the industry standard is to replace the water with water proof bricks ,bricks must be sealed, Thompsons is good, 2" disposable brush. The bricks will displace the water once the pool is full of bricks start refilling the pool and removing the bricks at the same time kind of a balancing act. You must realize you will only get at best 85% of water out. but that would be enough to get you stabilizer level down. In reality "your friend needs to find another pool supply store to deal with and learn how to take care of a pool correctly.

Reply to
Sac Dave
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Pump and dewater and then put the fiberglass pool in quick with the crane and start filling it before ground water can start building pressure. You could if you were particularly nuts, drill a shallow well adjacent to and 5-10' deeper than the pool and run a pump in it for a few days to lower the water table in the area at which point you could drain the pool. Ground water is interesting in the way it follows contours.

Reply to
Pete C.

Heat sealing (use a household iron) yes, but tape, none will stick very well to poly.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

That makes more sense. If the pool had a drain at bottom, you could use the bottom drain to pump water out, using the backwash feature.

Fill from the bottom does make a lot more sense. Unless you are trying to figure out how to get the liner on the bottom, in the first place. Then things get a bit confused.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

You haven't played with the 3M high bond stuff much have you?

Reply to
Pete C.

I'd like the concession to sell tickets.

Reply to
Boden

Actually, test kits to test stabilizer level are commonly available.

Your friend probably already knows the right routine:

Get the chemical levels right, then use liquid chlorine shock to wipe out the algae.

Reply to
Dan Espen

Only played with it once. Great stuff for sticking windows to the outside of skyscrapers, but I think they use poly between layers as a release agent. . I still have my doubts about sticking well to poly though.

It has very low adhesion to polyethylene, Teflon, etc.

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I'll see if I can find some in work and try it. We had a roll some months ago for a metal application.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

There is not much of Florida that is below sea level, none that I can think of. You are thinking of New Orleans. There is a significant pat that is only a few feet above sea level tho. I am at 11 feet at the finished floor of the house, the pool deck is about a foot loser The water table at my house is about 4 feet below the pool deck right now and the pool is about 8 deep. It will pop out if the water gets low, pretty much immediately. When they dig a pool here they have a big mud pump to keep the water out while they dig. The first thing that goes into a pool excavation is a couple truck loads of gravel and a 2" PVC pipe with slits in it as a water pickup for another big assed pump When they build the pool they pump the water out when they shoot the shell. and there are plugs in the bottom of the drain that go into the gravel under the pool. They let the pool fill with ground water if it is going to sit a while. When they come back to plaster it they pump all the water out again. They keep that pump pulling water out from under the pool until the plastering is done, the plugs are replaced in the drain pan and the pool has started to fill with the fresh water. When they decide the pool is full beyond the water table they disconnect the pump and cap the suction line

Reply to
gfretwell

On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 18:44:03 -0500, Caesar Romano wrote Re Re: Changing *all* the pool water without lowering the water level:

One other point however.

When you have almost completely drained the old water and have the new water sitting on top of the old water and separated by the plastic; will you be able to pull the plastic sheet out? At this point the new water should be pushing the plastic against the sides of the pool quite firmly. I would guess that you will have to cut the plastic into strips to get it out.

Reply to
Caesar Romano

Hmm. I'd try some 8' diameter weather balloons.

Fill each with water. When there's no (or very little) water left that's NOT in a balloon, use the specialty tool known as an "ice pick."

Reply to
HeyBub

It should pull sideways just fine.

Reply to
Pete C.

Pete C. wrote: ...

snicker...chortle...

calculate the weight that will be and the tension required to pull it and then translate to the force/unit area on that film and come back...

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Reply to
dpb

Yu guys are all wet. The plan is to start with the film on the bottom and shove the filler hose underneth and "float" it to the top.

Reply to
salty

Wrong, the water (and algae slime) remaining under the plastic is a very good "bearing" and two people pulling the plastic / tarp from one side should have no problem at all removing it. If the plastic was placed with the pool fully dry and then water was added on top it would be different.

Reply to
Pete C.

on 7/18/2008 7:01 AM Caesar Romano said the following:

First, you have it backwards. The new water is blow the sunken cover. Secondly, when there is water below and above the cover, there will be no pressure pushing on the cover in any direction.

Reply to
willshak

It's just a few thousand gallons of water. How much could it weigh?

Steve

snicker .... chortle ;-)

Reply to
SteveB

"Pete C." wrote

I got certified in '69 and again commercially in '74. It sure is a good way to inspect your pool, fix minor problems before they become major problems, and just cool off.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

there is a very good reason you were getting blank stares. it sounds ridicules. just check the chemicals and only change out as much water as needed.

Reply to
ythread

I got certified Jan '07, doing the commercial dive fun weekend thing in a few weeks. It's a good excuse to buy toys and travel. In september I'll be diving in the Red Sea :)

Reply to
Pete C.

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