I've been using CFLs in a garage door
opener since they came out. I don't
know what is the issue here.
I 1st put them in because that opener
said 40 watts max for each of 2 bulbs.
I got the largest CFL and even with the
slow warm up, gave be more light right
from turn on.
Let me guess, you live in Florida?
CFL bulbs work fine if the winter temps dont get below freezing (32
deg.F). But try using them in the northern states where the winter
temps stay at zero for weeks, and can drop as low as MINUS 40 deg. F
At that extreme low, NO FLORESCENT BULBS WILL WORK.
On Sep 21, 12:50 am, email@example.com wrote:
Not true. I have two cfl perimeter lights that are switched on every
night 365 days of the year. They take a bit longer to light when cold
but they do work even when switched on when it is -40. One just has to
give them time to light. both perimeter lights are in glass enclosures
as in a porch light and I haven't tried bare bulbs outside as it is
not recommended and very likely wet snow would cause them to break.
In the middle of winter, I may be fixing the toilet in the house. I
need a few tools, and all my tools are in the garage since I do not
have a basement. The garage is not heated. When I go to the garage,
I want the 6 tools I need in the house *NOW*. I;m not going to stand
in the very cold garage for 10 minutes waiting for these CFLs to get
bright enough so I can see what's in my toolbox, before I can get what
I need and go back in the house. And last winter we had a few days
where the temp was in the -30s. I went to the garage and those CFLs
NEVER got bright. All 4 of them in my garage combined put out less
light than one candle would produce. Maybe it's just the brand I
have, but either way, I am not willing to go back to the caveman era
with lighting just because the government came up with another stupid
idea which they claim will save energy. Sure it does save a little
energy when they work, like in a heated house, but it's no saving in
my pocket when the bulbs cost 20 times what a common bulb would cost.
(like $.25 for common bulb, and $5.00 for a CFL). CFLs work fine in
some applications, but not in all. As soon as the outdoor temps start
getting down around +30, I'll be replacing all the CFLs with common
bulbs in my garage.
A 100 watt load would consume half the current if you double the voltage.
However where I come from, you can't "paint the white red", you need to
separate the ground and common. Therefore the need to run either 2 14/2
wires or a 14/3.
On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 18:28:58 -0500, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
The white wire needs to be at ground potential, and on a norh
american system, running 240 volts, NEITHER wire is at ground
potential - so the wires need to be black and red. No white wire
required - and BOTH lines need to be switched
On 09/20/2010 09:46 PM, email@example.com wrote:
It's standard practice to use 2-wire (with ground) cable for pure 240V
circuits (e.g. water heater, air conditioner) and to simply reidentify
the white as a hot at each box with a ring of black or red tape. Now if
you are pulling THHN in pipe it would make sense to pull red and black,
but I'm not aware of special 240V romex with red/black or other
non-white, non-grey, non-green colors.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
On Sep 20, 11:59 pm, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
In fact, 12/2 romex (generically NMD-90 in Canada, same stuff as romex
but we have it labeled special 'cause we like to pay more) is
available in the big boxes here with red and black conductors and an
all-red exterior sheath. It's marketed for 240V baseboard heaters, and
it's been around since at least the early 90's. Dunno if it was
required by code as opposed to flagging the white with red tape.
Blue-sheath 14/2 has also recently appeared to make afci circuits
stand out, apparently for the convenience of the inspectors when they
eyeball the rough-in. Along with yellow-sheathed 12/2, I don't think
code requires it, I think it's something the industry came up with.
I was SURE I remembered that being the case, Chip, from when I used
to help my father wire houses way back in the "live better
electrically" and "gold Medallion Home" days - but I could not find a
refference to support my memory.
The darn stuff is called HEATEX, now that I come to think of it.
For all the disbelievers/unbelievers, just google "Heatex Cable
-marker -label -labels"
On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 21:46:27 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
Yes, you've still added nothing to the discussion. In a purely 240V circuit
there is NO NEED for the white wire. See the part about painting the white
wire red. This is very common and outside of some areas, evidently, where
union thugs run things, is perfectly acceptable.
- so the wires need to be black and red.
No, they really need to be anything other than green (or green/yellow) and
white. See the part about painting the white wire red.
...and now you're agreeing with me that you've added nothing to the
On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 22:57:52 -0500, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
Except for SAFETY reasons, on a north american system which is NOT
strictly 240, neither line is "dead. BOTH are LIVE.
Live lines need to be switched.- and identified.
So OK - not white or green - but switched.
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