[SOLVED] Chainsaw rope very hard to pull Solved

Jerry.Tan · 2015-02-22T09:55:44+00:00

I picked up a Stihl "Farm Boss" chainsaw at a garage sale, for a real good price. It's old but real clean and came with an extra *new* chain and a case, and more. The new chain is worth what I paid for the whole thing. The guy said it's not been used for about 10 years. I checked the gas tank and it was dry, and I knew it was not gummed up. But when I pulled the rope, it would not budge. The guy told me I could remove the spark plug, so I did. I sprayed some WD40 in the cylinder and was able to pull the rope and turn the engine. I then poured a small amount of motor oil in it, and a little more WD40, and I could easily pull the rope (with spark plug still removed). I pulled it about 20 times, added a little more oil, and pulled it another 10 or 15 times, abnd it pulled real easily, and I could see the piston go up and down. I put the spark plug back in the engine, and although I could pull the rope, it pulled very hard, but I could hear the compression, so I bought it. After getting it home, I took the spark plug out again, and sprayed some PB Blaster in the cyl. and added some very light oil, like sewing machine oil, and let it sit for a day, so the oil can get down around the piston rings. I then pulled the rope about 25 times and it pulled real easily (plug removed). I then replaced the plug, and it still pulls very hard. I know the piston and the rope are working properly. The air cleaner is very clean. So, why does it pull so hard when the spark plug is in the engine? Yes, I know it should pull harder when the plug is in the engine, but not this hard. I pretty much have to use every muscle I have to pull that rope. But without the spark plug, I could probably pull it with one finger. This dont make much sense to me.... [No, it's not oil locked, most of the oil came out of the plug hole when the plug was removed, and I have pulled it at least 10 times with the plug installed, which wore me out. I have not tried to add gas and run it yet. ...

Feb 22, 2015 Last reply: 1 year ago 69 Replies

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Thomas Gronek 4 years ago

The cylinder could be glazed, as a result, there is only a slick surface on the cylinder, which will not retain any lubrication from the gas/oil mix. If this is the case, the rings might also be sticky from glaze. If you have a procto-scope or some other bore-scope set up, that would save you the trouble of taking the top end off just to verify whether it is, or is not the issue. Good luck

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TerryH 4 years ago

Many/most (but not all) CS over 45cc have a COMPRESSION RELEASE BUTTON you push for easier cranking/ starting? Did you look for one? Also possible flywheel out of time from sheared key, but (more likely) someone removed and improperly assembled with key not properly matched. Flywheel often needs to be removed to access/ service the (oil pump/ oil pump drive gear). I just dealt w/ a vintage red Craftsman top handle w/ same issue, and despite feeling otherwise for too long, it was the flywheel key improper assembly

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Kc409 4 years ago

I believe he removed the carb and muffler and determined there was no clogging nor any carbon build up. With the plug removed, it was easy to crank and with the plug installed, it was difficult or almost impossible to spin. A stuck reed valve may be the culprit as it could be sealed, not allowing any fuel/air mixture to be drawn into the combustion chamber.

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TerryH 4 years ago

Had similar LONG story to this and many others here, on a small top handle vintage craftsman, finally pulled flywheel and found shaft/key installed with key 1/4" away from keyway in fly wheel; after reinstalling correctly, it fired/ ran first pull.... amazed, I was

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BobG 4 years ago

I had a similar problem on a lawn mower engine and my Stihl chainsaw. They were both very hard to crank with the pull rope. For me the issue in both cases was the timing. If it's off it can make it very hard to pull. I went through much of the same steps as you did trying to figure this out. On the Stihl in order to set the timing you have to set the gap on the ignition coil. Once I set the gap correctly it became much easier to pull and start. I can't believe that Stihl or others aren't telling people this is a possible cause for the hard pull. It's one of the first things I would check once it's determined that it's easy to pull with the spark plug removed.

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beelerthomas818@gmail.com 3 years ago

Wild Bill has a good point. I have a Stihl 193T and was difficult to pull. The starter assembly was missing one of the paws. i replaced the entire pull starter assembly with a new assembly, I was surprised the the pull took half the effort, .Problem solved!

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TerryH 3 years ago

Guessing 50cc+, which is where MFR starts adding COMPRESSION RELEASE button to saws....but if you do not have that button, pull muffler, inspect piston/ cylinder and spark screen. LOO for CR Button and push it. Good saw= choke ON, pull x2, choke OFF= Pull x1 to start.

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Kim 1 year ago

Have you changed the type of 2-cycle oil from what you have previously used or put a little more oil (say changed from 50-1 to 40-1)? I am having the same trouble with my two 031 Stihls that I have had for over forty years and I did go to a 40-1 mix for a while before the trouble started. I am working on them now and am going back to 50-1 to see if the trouble will go away. I will also pull the mufflers to give them a cleaning. They have been exemplary machines since I bought them in the seventies, but I admit to being 70++ and could stand to have a lighter saw!

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Tony Hwang 11 years ago

Hi, Intake or exhaust passage is plugged up or reed(valve) jammed. Since compression is felt, exhaust side?(remove muffler and look) Instead of plug did you try with paper ball plugged into plug hole? It should pop if compression cycle works.

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