[SOLVED] Chainsaw rope very hard to pull Solved

I fought a little 14" Craftsman/ on high compression issues w/ Plug in, and after much disbelief and distraction, (wasted time searching other potential issues) finally pulled flywheel to find KEY was NOT in the key slot ....was NOT ... was not.. was not, despite testing w/ kill switch off, etc. Carefully reassembly, and it started right up..

The cylinder could be glazed, as a result, there is only a slick surface on the cylinder, which will not retain any lubrication from the gas/oil mix. If this is the case, the rings might also be sticky from glaze. If you have a procto-scope or some other bore-scope set up, that would save you the trouble of taking the top end off just to verify whether it is, or is not the issue. Good luck

Many/most (but not all) CS over 45cc have a COMPRESSION RELEASE BUTTON you push for easier cranking/ starting? Did you look for one? Also possible flywheel out of time from sheared key, but (more likely) someone removed and improperly assembled with key not properly matched. Flywheel often needs to be removed to access/ service the (oil pump/ oil pump drive gear). I just dealt w/ a vintage red Craftsman top handle w/ same issue, and despite feeling otherwise for too long, it was the flywheel key improper assembly

I believe he removed the carb and muffler and determined there was no clogging nor any carbon build up. With the plug removed, it was easy to crank and with the plug installed, it was difficult or almost impossible to spin. A stuck reed valve may be the culprit as it could be sealed, not allowing any fuel/air mixture to be drawn into the combustion chamber.

Had similar LONG story to this and many others here, on a small top handle vintage craftsman, finally pulled flywheel and found shaft/key installed with key 1/4" away from keyway in fly wheel; after reinstalling correctly, it fired/ ran first pull.... amazed, I was

I had a similar problem on a lawn mower engine and my Stihl chainsaw. They were both very hard to crank with the pull rope. For me the issue in both cases was the timing. If it's off it can make it very hard to pull. I went through much of the same steps as you did trying to figure this out. On the Stihl in order to set the timing you have to set the gap on the ignition coil. Once I set the gap correctly it became much easier to pull and start. I can't believe that Stihl or others aren't telling people this is a possible cause for the hard pull. It's one of the first things I would check once it's determined that it's easy to pull with the spark plug removed.

Wild Bill has a good point. I have a Stihl 193T and was difficult to pull. The starter assembly was missing one of the paws. i replaced the entire pull starter assembly with a new assembly, I was surprised the the pull took half the effort, .Problem solved!

Guessing 50cc+, which is where MFR starts adding COMPRESSION RELEASE button to saws....but if you do not have that button, pull muffler, inspect piston/ cylinder and spark screen. LOO for CR Button and push it. Good saw= choke ON, pull x2, choke OFF= Pull x1 to start.

Have you changed the type of 2-cycle oil from what you have previously used or put a little more oil (say changed from 50-1 to 40-1)? I am having the same trouble with my two 031 Stihls that I have had for over forty years and I did go to a 40-1 mix for a while before the trouble started. I am working on them now and am going back to 50-1 to see if the trouble will go away. I will also pull the mufflers to give them a cleaning. They have been exemplary machines since I bought them in the seventies, but I admit to being 70++ and could stand to have a lighter saw!