The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in a
roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long but a
more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it didn't lay
flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the weight
of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two years, it
still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness at
some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is noticeably
Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue
the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.
(Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to be
overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern is
flattening the folds with glue.)
From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt mastic
with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing the poly
into the mastic.
One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact cement
instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as acceptable surfaces.
Any other suggestions?
6-mil poly can actuall push up an interlocked wood floor? One great sage
said it best:
"I've been to one world fair, a picnic, and a rodeo, and that's the
stupidest thing I ever heard come over a set of earphones."
I'd suspect a dip in the concrete. Are you sure the base floor is (gulp)
I've never done a Pergo floor, so this might seems like a stupid
How does a sheet of plastic that measures 6 millimeters in thickness
keep a wooden floor raised off the subfloor?
Are you sure the subfloor itself isn't the issue?
Other than the unit of measure error, I'm thinking it's still a valid
re: about two sheets of 20 pound paper thick
Actually, it's about 1.5 sheets...
20 lb. Bond thickness =
50 lb. Regular Offset thickness =
70 lb. Smooth Offset thickness =
80 lb. Gloss Coated Book thickness =
20 lb. CB Carbonless thickness=
What's so complicated about that scale? <g>
It's pretty silly, yes. And "basis weight" is so steeped in time that no
one can change it now.
Each type of paper's descriptor weight is based on a particular "basis"
sheet size, that sheet size varying with the type of paper: 500 sheets of
that basis size would weigh that many pounds. That's what's called the
I have a book at work that gives this in detail, including the basis sheet
size for each paper type (we use a lot of 100# offset in our business).
And since you can compress paper fibers quite a lot or just a little, the
overall thickness will be very close between the different weights. You
need to get up into boxboard before thickness (8pt, 10pt, 24pt, etc)
becomes the descriptor rather than basis weight.
To make things even more confusing, Europe and China use gsm (grams per
square meter) as the descriptor, so it can be hard to find exact
equivalents between theirs and ours unless you have a physical sample of
the gsm board.
This is embarrassingly stupid. Here's a look at what the problem really
turned out to be.
That black thing, 1/4" thick at one end, is one of the spacers that's
supposed to go at the base of the walls, to guide you so you leave
enough expansion space around the perimeter. It's in the position I
found it when I lifted the plank. I can't believe I missed seeing it
when I originally laid the plank.
If you look closely at the top right corner, you'll see a diagonal fold
of the type I originally thought caused the problem.
Thanks to all for your comments.
Chuckle. True story- 71 ford full size wagon, had a lump under the
carpet on the front passenger footwell. Lived with it for over a year
like that, finally one day I couldn't take it anymore. Removed enough
trim to roll the carpet back, and damned if there wasn't a brand new
ignition key assembly, with key, sitting there under the carpet. Some
sort of production line oopsie, I guess. Wonder what they did with the
next car down the line when they didn't have an ignition cylinder to
match the doors?
Moral of the story- you ain't the only one to look at something and not
see it, and lay floor covering over it.
1972 Ambassador - noise in rear parcel shelf area - rolling on turns -
rattle on bumps. A few trim screwa in a "box section" ov the bodywork
- solved with a Shutz gun of accoustic undercoating (rubberized tar) -
shot a layer into the chanel and the noise went away on the next left
Same problem and solution on a 76 Dodge? - ball bearings inside the
frame section under the floor. Squirt. Brake. Quiet.
My late brother in law worked for a VW dealer back when they
were selling the air cooled Beatles. He once told me that
when they prepped the cars, they would often find German beer
bottles inside door panels.
On Monday, October 5, 2009 1:40:18 AM UTC-4, Ray K wrote:
found this thread while googling. i realize your problem turned out to be
something else, but according to the 3M website, "3M™ Blue 72 Spray Adhes
ive" is exactly the right tool for the job. it specifically lists polyethy
lene sheeting and construction vapor barriers.
(another site says double-sided pressure sensitive foam tape will work, tho
ugh that would't have worked in your case.)
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