Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master vinyl. The
baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group and baseboard.
I took the baseboard out (you can see the second picture) and i can easily
caulk the end). I am not sure if that is good idea or not? what do you thin
Thanks a lot
Ps: the first picture shows the space between the floor and the baseboard a
nd the second pictures shows the floor after removing the baseboard.
Or just re-install the existing baseboard lower, but that
would require that the wall be painted. If it needs painting
anyway, then it could be an option. Otherwise, as suggested
get a wider baseboard. I can't understand how the baseboard
was sitting up in the air to begin with?
Replying for Leza...
Or put the baseboard back where it was and use a shoe along the front edge
to hide the gap.
A "shoe" is just a thin piece of molding. In your case I would think
smething 1/4 - 3/8 thick and 3/4 - 1 1/4 wide would be about right. You
want it thin/narrow enough so that you can bend it down as needed to conform
to any floor uneveness and to the baseboard. One nails them to the
baseboard, NOT to the floor.
The downside to that is that the shoe needs to be finished. The color need
not match the baseboard color, it could be some other color in the room. It
could also be stained to a color similar to the floor. If you decide to use
one, finish it before you install it, touch up afterward.
Your floor looks great, GOOD JOB!
Agreed, the new floor looks great. You are doing a fine job and
should be very proud of yourself.
The space between the old original floor and the baseboard looks as
though the baseboard was installed after carpeting had been placed
over the original floor. I would put the baseboard back exactly where
it came from and then use quarter-round to finish off the floor/wall
junction. Prepainting the quarter round will make life much easier.
You are very impressive in what you are undertaking in fixing up your
dwelling,and hopefully can pass on what you are learning to others in
the future on this and orther websites.
Most people call that "shoe" quarter round.
I found half inch easy to work with.
As far as finishing, I recently replaced all the baseboard and quarter
round in our living/dining room. I could not resist the synthetic
stuff at the lumber place. You buy it white, you nail it on, fill the
nail holes and you are done.
Other posters mention reusing the old base board.
Sure, if it's intact and you want to save money go for it.
I liked putting in brand new. This stuff isn't that expensive.
Shoe gives a lot of flexibility, and you shouldn't worry about
"conventions" if it looks good, which it always does if
stained/painted right. When I had my floors refinished I replaced the
painted baseboards and show with varnished oak - after the floors were
refinished. So there was a varnish line on the floor under where the
old shoe had been. The new shoe was about 1/2 x 3/4. Normally I
would attach that with the 1/2 toward the floor, but the ugly varnish
line was exposed doing that, so I flipped it with the 3/4 on the floor
and that covered the varnish line. First thought I was screwed, but
after seeing how it looked I liked it. Dresses the wall/floor line
nicely. Might only be an issue if you want to get items right close
to the wall, but that doesn't apply for me.
There's no reason not to dress the wall/floor interface however you
like it. Best to keep the shoe off the floor with a spacer as you
nail it to the baseboard. Too tight to the floor can cause buckling
over time as walls/floors shift a bit.
Think 1/8" is about right, or 3/16" if you want to play it safe.
I just laid it on the floor because I don't want a gap, so pick your
poison. Shoe can easily be redone anyway.
Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master vinyl.
The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group and
baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second picture) and
i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is good idea or not?
what do you think please?
Thanks a lot
Ps: the first picture shows the space between the floor and the
baseboard and the second pictures shows the floor after removing the
Hi cousin Leza. How's Long doing?
The new floor that you are doing looks good.
I am not exactly sure what you are asking regarding the baseboard.
You wrote..., "I took the baseboard out and I can easily caulk the end. I am
not sure if that is good idea or not?"
If you mean eliminating the baseboard altogether and just caulking where the
new floor meets the wall, -- that's one option, but it tends to not look
very good. Plus, you would need to patch and repaint where the old
baseboard along the wall.
It would be better to either put the old baseboard back up (if it is in good
shape) or add new baseboard. Others here have suggested some possibilities
along those lines. If whatever you do involves having to repaint at least
along the bottom part of the wall in the area of the baseboard, you could
try going to Home Depot with a same of the wall color and see if the can
color-match it. They sell sample color-matched paint in a small jar for
about $3.00 if you want to test the color to see if it really matches.
Or, as others have said, maybe you can put up new baseboard that is high
enough to go from the new floor up and cover the whole area that the old
baseboard covered. That would eliminate having to patch or repaint the wall
at the bottom.
Here is one example of a type of inexpensive baseboard that may be high
enough to cover the old baseboard area:
It is cheap stuff -- fiberboard -- but it may be good enough for what you
want. You can also look and see whatever else they may have and how high up
it comes above the floor.
baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group and baseboard. I
took the baseboard out (you can see the second picture) and i can easily caulk
the end). I am not sure if that is good idea or not? what do you think please?
I like caulk along baseboard for two reasons: hides the gap and prevents
spills or pipe leaks from damaging innards of the wall or peeling paint
from baseboard. I would use either paintable caulk(and paint to match
the baseboard) or a colored caulk color of flooring. If the gap is EVEN
along the wall, then painting the color of bb won't make a wavy line.
If UNEVEN, then the gap will match flooring closely and follow straight
line along bottom of baseboard.
My parents' new home had clear silicone along all of the baseboards, but
it was shiny so it "showed" along tile floors. If caulking along tile,
I used masking tape to keep caulk from oozing into the grout lines. We
has a hose burst in laundry room (first floor, slab), which fortunately
happened while we were at home....caulking kept water from flowing under
walls into our carpeted bedrooms. I like caulking along kit. and bath
cabinet bases and inside sink cabinets...bound to be leaks someday and
might prevent damage to particle board cabinets, which are pretty ruined
if the get wet.
The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group and baseboa
rd. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second picture) and i can eas
ily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is good idea or not? what do you
rd and the second pictures shows the floor after removing the baseboard.
1 - Did you look at the pic that shows the size of the gap between
baseboard and the floor? It's huge.
2 - Do you realize the flooring product she used floats, it will
and it's almost certainly not supposed to be fastened to anything?
I agree that the size of the gap shown in the first photo (
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic‘cjd4&s=5 ) is large, although it is less
on the left side of the photo where the new flooring is already installed.
The second photo (
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5) shows that the OP ahas already
removed the baseboard, so I guess the amount of the original gap at this
point may no longer matter -- unless, of course, she tries to replace the
old trim where it was so she doesn't have to fix the paint job on the wall.
But, that seems like a bad plan anyway. One option would have been to leave
the original baseboard in place, put down the new flooring so it went under
the baseboard, and then add shoe molding or quarter-round to the bottom of
the original baseboard.
In looking at the second photo, and the differences in the color of the wall
paint where the baseboard has been removed, I wonder what happened in the
past to create such a large gap under the baseboard that was there. Maybe
one possibility is that there used to be 3/4-inch hardwood or something of
similar thickness in the room. And, maybe someone removed the 3/4-inch
flooring (maybe due to cat urine issues or just a damaged original floor) --
without removing the original baseboard -- and then put down the thinner
laminate flooring that she is now covering up. If that happened in the
past, maybe that would explain the gap and why the wall colors are different
where the old baseboard was.
Also, if that is what happened in the past, the doors etc. are probably
already high enough so that installing the new flooring that the OP is now
doing will not require trimming the existing doors due to the added height
of the floor.
The new flooring is looking good.
My guess is that you already finished putting it down and you are now
figuring out the caulking/baseboard question.
There is one aspect of the job that I am not completely sure about. It has
to do with whether it would be better to leave a small gap around the
perimeter of the room -- maybe 1/4-inch between the end of the flooring and
I would have to research the Allure manufacturer's installation instructions
to know for sure if that is recommended or not. I thought I saw somewhere
that the Allure TrafficMaster Vinyl Flooring product that you are using
doesn't expand and contract (because it does not absorb moisture), so maybe
no gap is needed. But, maybe it could expand/contract a little due to
My point is that if a small gap is recommended, and if you haven't put any
baseboard back down along the perimeter, it may be possible to trim off a
1/4-inch along the perimeter with a sharp utility knife. I honestly don't
know if this is needed or recommended with this product, but I thought that
I should mention it just in case.
I found the installation instructions. I assume they came with the Allure
flooring that you bought. Here's a link to the instructions file:
The instructions do say to leave a 1/8-inch or less gap on the perimeter:
"2. Installation should start in a corner and
proceed from the wall with the underedge
facing out away from the wall
(Figure 1). Allow a gap of 1/8" or less
(2-3mm) for subfloor movement, which
should be covered by molding. Trim off
the top over-edge facing the corner
wall (Figure 2)."
You may have already done that, but I wanted to pass along the information
just in case..
Do not use caulk. There are two standard ways of fixing
a space at floor level:
1 Remove the baseboard and replace it flush (with no gap.)
2. Add "quarter-round" i.e. special moulding (sold at lumber
yards, between 3/4 inches and 1.5 inches high) to block the gap.
#2 is easier and neater. You can paint the quarter round before
fastening it in place. Use "finishing nails" with a very small hammer,
and as few nails as possible. Leave the nail heads protruding one
millimetre, and then "set" them flush with a nail set tool. This
avoids denting the wood with misaimed hammer blows.
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