I have a drilled well thats 845' deep. It's a 12-year old house. We bought
it 4 years ago when it was 8 years old. For some reason, the previous
owner/builder drilled the well right on the edge of the driveway along the
edge of the woods. This has caused problems for us, especially in the
winter when we have our driveway plowed out. The well head sits so low that
even in the summer someone sitting in a high pickup might not see it and
could clip it and crack or break it. I have to mark it with a 6-foot high
fluorescent orange pole so no one runs into it.
I'm currently building a detached garage, and I was very limited in the
placement of the garage because of the way the house is configured, the way
it sits on the 20-acre lot, where the adjacent property owners property line
is, and because of our town's setback requirements. Consequently, I had to
expand the driveway into the wood line a little bit, and now the well head
is sticking out of the driveway, about 10 feet from the edge making it even
more of a target to run into with a vehicle !
I'd like to dig out around the well head down about 2 feet, cut it off,
recap it, and then bury it, or put some sort of heavy duty steel or aluminum
box over it with a hinged lid flush with the gravel driveway surface so we
can drive and snow plow right over it, but also just have to lift the lid up
if we ever need to get at the well for any reason.
Now - are there things I should know or consider before doing this ?
Yes, definitely! Ours has a pipe that runs into our
basement to the sump; the electric & water supply comes
in inside a 6 inch pipe. You do NOT want to allow
water to collect inside an enclosure like that or you
can easily contaminate the well water, or ... worse.
The pipe also allows a small amount of heat to keep
things in there from freezing. Glad someone thought to
No point in reinventing the wheel, when you can buy it off the shelf. Check
your local precast concrete company. They probably have precast concrete or
HDPE well/valve pits that will be appropriate. If they go 'huh?', ask local
utilities and street departments where they get theirs. Plain steel or even
aluminum will have corrosion problems. If you want the lid to be drivable,
you are will need a cast iron top ring and lid (or at least a metal lip and
thick diamond plate) like what you see out in a street manhole service pit.
If possible freezing is a problem, make an inner foam lid that fits under
real lid. If you can put the foam deep enough (ie below frostline), ground
heat may be enough, otherwise you may need to add heat somehow. Remember,
unless the pump is within arm's length of surface, you have to be able to
get down there <with> it to work on it. Plumbers hate hanging upside down.
Oh, yeah, some people will probably holler at you for posting a binary,
rather than a link to the website you probably don't have. You may want to
check with your ISP- many offer 'toy' websites for free as part of your
account. (useless for anything but posting pictures of the kids, etc, but
handy for stuff like this.)
In many cases the well head does not have to be at the top of the well.
In-laws have a 400+ ft well and the head iis over 60ft away from the well
inside of his workshop. All you may need to do is cut the pipe below grade
install an elbo and pipe and locate the head elsewhere. Your particular
installation may prevent this of course.
Unless they have to pull out the well pump for repair or replacement (2
times in 20 years for me), then they have to undo the elbow joint to
have a straight run to the pump.
When you call the well company, ask them about burying the well head
instead. I am sure they have done plenty of them.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.