Plumbing stores, in my experience, are not the place either. They rarely, in my experience, know anything that they are willing to state about code requirements. The inspector is by far a better source of this info. Usenet is at least as good as plumbing stores.
Bob
And, from watching the gas company do it a couple weeks ago, requires very expensive tooling and careful technique to make joints.
Bob
That was actually described in the old "blue book" the local utility published with gas regulations.
It might, but who cares?
The pipe will outlast your grill no matter what you do to the pipe.
And why three feet? Six inches seems about right.
That should work.
Dan
That blanket statement is false. It's perfectly fine in my area.
steve
wrong
and wrong.
steve
Get a gas fitter or at least someone licensed to do it or you could blow up yours and your nieghbors house. As most of the places ban the use of Galvanized pipe with gas type k cooper tube is all we use here and have started to use plastic buriul pipe . WHAT EVER you do don,t use poly as the gas will break it down.
Now that's what I wanted to hear. I already have the anode, from a second hand marine supply place for $7. About 7"x 2" x3/4" of zinc with a wire coming out of the block. I guess I'll go ahead with that project.
Bob
Why on earth should attaching an anode to the outside of a gas pipe require a "gas fitter"? And what does that have to do with galvanized pipe, other than being a substitute for the protection provided?
Bob
If you use plastic, you have to use a special high density poly that is listed for gas. Suppliers here sell it to licensed plumbers. We have galvanized pipe all over the place for natural gas, particularly on runs across flat roofs. Underground runs that are not done with poly are done with the plastic covered black pipe as mentioned by other posters. The local utility should have a book or pdf available online with regulations for gas piping.
messagenews: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
They are very helpful when you ask them BEFORE you do something.
Like any person, they get really cranky when you try to make their lives difficult by cutting corners or doing a job wrong.
TMT
Need more points for the troll-award 2007?
Nick
How so? A buried black-iron pipe will last 30 years - an outside grill will be luck to last 30 months. We ran an iron pipe, under salt water, to a gas light at the end of a pier. That was over twenty years ago. The lamp is still on. Of course the pipe is covered with barnacles, so that might protect it some. Still...
How so? Burying the pipe is purely cosmetic - you could run it over the grass and it wouldn't matter.
What matters is doing it to code. Below are a couple of examples.
installation and installed in accordance with the manufacturer?s requirements.
Fittings may be wrapped in the field with an approved material. When using nonmetallic
pipe, an 18 AWG yellow continuous wire must be attached to the exterior of
the pipe.
reduced to 12?x 6? if external damage to pipe is not likely to result. If a
12? covercannot be maintained, the pipe shall be installed in conduit.
piping and ?tracer wire.? The piping must be polyethylene and sized properly for the
input of the pool heater.
Even the Brits want 15" of cover
Oh. No good reason, though. Okay.
I had to do it by tomorrow. We are redoing concrete and concrete people will concrete the area tomorrow. I ended up using iron pipes. (which I had to cut and thread in several points).
I coated the iron pipes with a very generous coat of military surplus cosmoline, then wrapped then in closed cell pipe foam insulation, and buried them in river pea gravel. I am on a little hill, so the water table is not even close to the pipe.
I think that they will hold up for quite a while.
i
I can remember as a kid seeing underground pipes being coated with tar before they were buried. The same treatment was used on oil tanks in the ground.
John
If the gas pipe is coming up through the new concrete, wrap a layer of foam rubber or some such to keep the pipe from being locked in the slab.
No, the new pipe will not touch concrete at any point. I specified it and my FIL will be watching. The area where it goes vertically into the ground, and where concrete surrounds it, they will make a round opening that I will fill with something else. That's also why I decided to buy pea gravel to fill the trench, instead of using crushed recycled concrete that they will use under the new cocnrete as "gravel".
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