Anyone know if plain old white barn paint will adhere (and stay adhered
for a few years) to bare concrete without any kind of priming?
I just sealed a couple of my exterior-facing basement walls against
moisture, and the whiteness makes quite a difference to the brightness
levels down there compared to gray concrete - so it got me thinking about
doing some of the internal walls with the barn paint that I have.
Maybe it'll just all fall off, though, or maybe it'll go chalky and leave
marks on anything that rubs up against it... but OTOH it's not like it
has to cope with sunlight or rain, so it's probably just a case of how
well it'll stick to concrete instead of wood.
Eventually, and once I know I've got all the moisture issues under
control, I'll sheetrock down there and make the space more habitable - in
the meantime it just needs to be functional, but not pretty :-)
Use a masonry waterproofing paint such as UGL or a cement-based white
coating such as Thoroseal. Either will take care of the cosmetics and
damp-proofing at the same time. Regular paint will be but a bandaid
and you'll still have to redo it at a later date - i.e. wasted time
On Fri, 14 Oct 2011 15:06:33 -0700, RicodJour wrote:
No, this is specifically about the 'interior' walls which aren't
inherently damp (although there's moisture in the air, so I should
probably run a dehumidifier down there for a while if I do try it) - the
ones which form the perimeter of the property I'm doing with Behr masonry
waterproofer (and hydraulic cement in a couple of spots where it leaks
quite a lot when it rains - I'll see how that goes and hopefully I won't
have to dig down to the footer next spring and seal from the outside).
I just noticed how much of a light gain I was getting from the white Behr
stuff on the outer walls, so got to wondering if I can do the 'dry' walls
with the barn paint.
I checked one of the actual buckets of barn paint, but it's a bit vague
on the matter. It says for exterior *wood* surfaces, then goes to list a
few examples - one of which is masonry (which, as far as I'm concerned,
is not wood :-)
On Fri, 14 Oct 2011 23:16:50 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
Where is the dampness coming from if not the walls or the floor? It
may not be comng from the entire wall, but I'll bet a lot is coming
from the lowest 6 or 12 inches.
The power of ugl waterproof paint is amazing. We recently did a
basement that had water on the floor after a rain, and now it only has
a little bit of water where the freezer sits (there was no room to
move it and it's heavy) and in the room two rooms away, which we
I first used this stuff in 1961. I don't rremember what brand, but it
was a rental property and it was full of cobwebs, and the tenant got a
discount in rent in return for doing repairs. Instead of doing
repairs he complained to the city that the basement was wet, and the
buliding inspector suggested waterproof paint. I was 14 and did the
work. I didn't clean anything, including the cobwebs, and I think I
only did one long wall, but by gally the basement was dry afterwards.
I figure, if anything it works better now.
Mostly the north basement wall, which on the outside is at the bottom of
a slight slope, and has several "problems":
a) Some (but seemingly minor) damp at the 6-12" level and below,
b) A concrete block section which probably used to be a window years ago,
c) A concrete block section where the well-pump lines run through (and
possibly used to be a doorway when the house was built in the '40s - it's
about 3' wide and 5' tall, so complete overkill just for some water
d) A rough section in the cast wall about 3' from floor level and 3' long
which leaked in 6 or 7 spots (on the outside there's a concrete wood-
chute to one side and a 'trough' for another basement window on the
other, so I think water collects up against this section and doesn't
... I've tackled (b) and (d) with hydraulic cement before painting with
sealer, because I'd get rainwater visibly dripping through there during
heavy storms. I'm hoping that just the sealer alone will work for (a) and
(c), but time will tell!
The floor itself does get damp where things stand too, though, so I need
to seal that eventually (be it with paint, or plastic sheet and a floor
over the top), but getting that north wall dry will help enormously I
Hopefully I'll find that, too! I'm hoping that it, along with the
cement, will knock most of the problems on the head. If I can cut down on
the regular damp a bit - and avoid actually having puddles in there after
heavy storms - I'll be happy :-)
My main worry is longevity, I think - I really don't know how long that
sealing paint lasts.
On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 01:39:58 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
Well, I painteed that basement wall in 1962. That's 49 years.
Of course, I haven't been in the house since.
And I'm pretty sure my mother sold it;, or I would own it now.
.....Hmmm. I should look into that.
Can't see your basement from here, but from your description, you need
to start OUTSIDE the house. Expose that north wall down to the footers,
seal properly, install or fix the footer drain, and regrade that yard so
water doesn't build up against basement wall. If it is surface water,
problem is easy. If wall is deeply buried, and it is underground water,
it gets harder. Sounds like wall was exposed or half-exposed in the
past. May need a swale 10-15 feet out from house directing surface water
around the house. If it is below-ground water, a slit trench full of
gravel, directing water to a daylight drain or drywell. Water takes path
of least resistance- give it someplace easier to go than your basement.
On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 05:54:51 -0400, aemeijers wrote:
Yes, that may turn out to be the case. I'm certainly not going to think
that the job's done (and start building internal frames/sheetrock walls
over the top of things) until we've had a good few storms - and actually,
the snowmelt next spring should be a good test.
Even then, I'm not sure if I'll have to dig down as far as the footers -
it might be that the only problem area is that 3' section between wood
chute and window bay, in which case I can probably just dig down the 5'
or so to seal from the outside, and run a drainage channel under the wood
chute so that water doesn't build up against that wall. But we'll see :-)
I'm not sure what they ever did in terms of outside sealing / drainage on
the property - but after 60 years or so it might not be in such good
Contemporary outside paints no longer go "chalky." Paints were, back in the
day, formulated to undergo controlled shedding of their exterior surface.
When the paint turned "chalky", a bit was washed off with the rain, taking
stains and dirt with it. The result: The painted surface looked better.
Does the container have any kind of label on it? I've seen barn paint
that is only for wood, and I've seen barn paint that is good on
masonry, too, *and* resists moisture, mold, and mildew. If your barn
paint is the latter, it'd probably work nicely on basement walls.
I'm doing my basement right now. I didn't use a sealer. I'm applying
Watertite LX by Zinsser. I think they also make Rustoleum. Anyhow,
this product is comparable to Ugl Dri-lock in terms of what it does
(water resistance, mold and mildew resistance) and the warranty, but
it is a brighter white, and Menards had it on sale, so...
One other potential thing about the barn paint - how's its odor? If
it's extremely strong, you might not want to use it indoors.
We're talking Minnesota, right? In which case, once you eventually get
around to sheetrocking, I'd suggest first putting some insulating
panels on the walls before sheetrocking. It will make the basement a
lot more comfortable in the winter.
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