For two reasons, that is exactly what I would do were I to build
a system of my own, from assembled parts.
1. You can't get the Bosch parts anyway, so, nobody can build their
own system out of Bosch parts, and,
2. Even if I could get Bosch parts, I wouldn't build a system out
of restricted parts, simply because it would be difficult to
expand and repair in the future.
However, when I asked today at a few intrusion alarm places, they
told me that the "reason" Bosch is restrictive is to prevent
One security professional emailed me the following about the lack of DIY for this system:
"The system you have is a upper level system so if you can utilize it then that is good.
Radionics/Bosch never was intended as a DIY system.
They were always geared for the upper end market and are used in High Security systems.
Most banks, government divisions (including the FBI, Secret Service, Post office and the military use their equipment.
They used to be even tighter with releasing their documentation prior to being acquired by Bosch.
Regarding the CALL FOR SERVICE, that is normally a message that appears when the keypad does not receive any data from the control board for about two minutes.
You can confirm that by powering up one of your keypads with 12VDC only with no connection to the panel."
It is a pain in the ass to become a Bosch (Radionics) dealer. The alarm
companies that "pass" their standards; and are in a area that doesn't
have too much competition from other Bosch dealers get the seal of
approval to be a certified dealer.
You won't find a "certified dealer" selling parts outright, as you seem
to know. However, there are ways to get parts. Most alarm companies
that are not dealers buy through a competitor for parts. Since you can't
go that route, there are online sites that sell parts.
I did a quick Google search and found one such outlet in 30 seconds. I'll
just post the 1st hit, I have no idea who they are nor have I done
business with them- --- it's just an example. I'm sure you can find more
if I found one that fast!
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety,
deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Ben Franklin
You're not kidding!
I called Bosch/Radionics at 800-538-5807 who told me they have plenty
of D2212B(LT) boards in stock (the LT, they told me, simply means it
comes without the external transformer in the kit).
But they can't sell them to me. They told me to go to Anixer or ADI.
So, I call Anixer at 925-469-8500, who says they can't sell the board
to me, due to their legal agreements. I have to get it from a contractor
as a "pass-through" (whatever that means).
So, this seems to be the path of the board:
Bosch/Radionics sells it to Anixer who sells it to the pass-through
contractor who sells it to me.
I wonder what the markup is each time?
Anyway, now I am looking for a "pass though" contractor, whatever that
means. I mean, I realize it's an "installer"; but, I don't want an
installer. I want a pass-through guy to just send me the board.
What do I google for?
(The Anixer guys couldn't tell me.)
Now for the ADI guys ... 800.233.6261 ... ... they won't sell it to
me either. I need a contractor's license. Sheesh.
It's getting to be harder to get a stinkin' alarm system replacement
board than it was to get garage door torsion springs! :)
Does anyone know how I can find a "pass through" contractor?
Run an ad on Kijiji saying you are looking for an alarm tech who could
help your situation. If some one respond, deal is no fix, no pay.
Lot of legit guys do a side job when he is off regular work.
I am lucky if I had a situation like that, just phone my old buddies
still on the job. They will send some one to help me out or give me some
thing I need. I retired from Honeywell. They have building protection
Silicon Valley, of all places. :)
I find it hard to believe THREE things would go bad at once.
I can run rudimentary tests on the D2212B board, but, what
I need to do is read all the PDFs I found to see if any
offer advice as to whether there is a RESET.
There's a reset button on the wall controllers,
but, they don't power up with the battery in place
so, *something* is wrong.
If it's a simple board reset, that's what I'll look for first.
On Sat, 23 Nov 2013 00:01:04 -0600, Nightcrawler® wrote:
That's my experience also.
For example, a fully-charged d-cell will be something around 1.65VDC, and,
if it's low, it will be something around 1.4VDC (give or take) but not
over its nominal charge of 1.5VDC.
Then again, the loading test is more accurate; but you have to know the
load and you have to start with a fully-charged battery, so it's harder
Have you ever worked on car charging system and battery? If battery
shows mere 12V it is a toast. Charging voltage is around 14V as you
know. And in this case hi Z Fluke is not a good choice, use something
like Simpson 260. If I were you I'd replace x-former and battery and
start from there. If you want, put a in-line fuse and protect them in
case. You can talk and and talk and scratch your head all day and
it is not gonna get fixed.
A Simpson 260 isn't good, by itself, either. At 20K/V, it's not going
to provide a significant load. A resistor (pick your poison,
depending on battery) and any hi-z meter will work better. There is
nothing magic about Simpson 260s.
I'd measure before replacing anything, though the battery is likely
toast no matter what else is bad. Don't replace it until you're sure
that's the only thing that's gone.
On Sat, 23 Nov 2013 08:20:19 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote:
Yes. 13.8 volts is "normal" for an open-circuit voltage.
The voltage is highest after charging, and then goes down, over
time, depending on the type of battery.
I have no qualms about replacing stuff, but, I am trying to
debug first, *what* needs to be replaced (other than the transformer,
which is on order).
Right now, I'm trying to figure out why the power supply board
has 0 volts across the PWR and GND pins, even with 13 volts at
The transformer is obviously dead. Replace it immediately. This
will at least let you know if the system will work with the transformer
functional. Step two would be to figure out what is wrong with
the battery back-up. Have you checked for fuses, yet?
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